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  1. #1

    Drum filter replacement

    My pond is approx 4500gals. Iím almost sure Iím going to keep it, but Iím fed up with my current drum so looking for something more reliable. I have a vario 20k pump but most of the time itís probably only running at 8-12k litres and hour. Iíve had green water since the pond was 2weeks old and canít clear it. I have a 55w UV, 200litres of HelX13 and K1micro. Iíve also added alot of plants in the last few weeks in an attempt to take up nutrients to reduce the green. Parameters are absolutely fine. Shower will be going on again at some point once Iíve replaced the drum (having to use brushes in front of the drum bypass.

    Current thoughts are:-

    Burtons BD300
    QK 25 or QK35
    Profidrum 45/40

    Space is an issue because my filter bay is in the ground and I have a Solum 16 so if I go too big then I think itís going to take some serious reworking and potentially enlarging the filter bay - the Profi almost certainly falls into this category.

    Money is an issue because Iíve spent far too much on this pond and Iím not really enjoying it these days.

    Any experiences on the above please.


    Last edited by DiabloDave; 03-04-2024 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Edited to correct gallonage.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai big h's Avatar
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    ive got the profi 55/40 .Very happy .Works flawlessly .You can pick a used 45/40 up for around £1700

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion davethefish1's Avatar
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    i've only had minor issues with my QK25 related to the placement of an amalgam UV making the silicone drum seal go hard and crack.
    but i'd say you are pushing it with a QK25 or QK35 on 5000 gallons, a QK50 would be much better and wash a lot less, than pushing a 25 or 35...

    if money was no object i'd probably get a profi drum, but i do like the look of the bigger burton drums, and that they are UK manufacturer.
    i know a lot like the oase drums but they are overrated imo considering cost...
    Last edited by davethefish1; 03-04-2024 at 01:08 PM.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai big h's Avatar
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    In all fairness I think profi are now made in Doncaster

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  8. #5
    I have a burtons BD700. Itís been running for about 4 months now and so far has been great. No real complaints and Iím happy with the quality.


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  10. #6
    We have a Profidrum and the build quality is excellent (and so it should be at the price). The only issue we've had is when the drum has not rotated smoothly, but in a series of steps. This is due to the drive being on the central axis and the torque required is therefore that much larger meaning that resistance around the seal can sometime lead to this start/stop motion. The motor and gearbox could probably operate Tower Bridge, but for sheer longevity of service it's better that it turns smoothly - which can usually be achieved by a few adjustments.
    My DIY ponds from 1988 until present day.
    All can be found here:
    https://www.ukzero.com/pond.htm

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  12. #7
    Iíve ruled out the Profi now as Iíve realised I had problems with the owner previously when I lost 4fish and he didnít give a hoot and was only worried and aggressive about the review Iíd left online!

  13. #8
    Ive had Oase drums for the last decade, they’re very good with excellent customer service but probably more expensive than others brands on the market - but you do get a good warranty etc. Add on bio chambers perhaps undersized…

    re youre green water problem - stupid question I know but you do change your UV bulb(s) every 6 months / year?

    other issue might be that your turnover rate thru the UV is too low or is under sized depending on daily amount of sunshine your pond is exposed to.

  14. #9
    Bulb changed every year. Given the cost of electric I actually only have it on at the same time as the shower (spring to early Autumn). I think you may be correct on the flow rate through it though. Faulty parts replaced on drum, cleaned out bio riser chamber and Iíve turned the pump up to about 16k an hour. Iíll run it like this for a while to see what happens to clarity and if the parameters change (which have been good). I think I may treat myself to an amalgam UV.

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  16. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by DiabloDave View Post
    Bulb changed every year. Given the cost of electric I actually only have it on at the same time as the shower (spring to early Autumn). I think you may be correct on the flow rate through it though. Faulty parts replaced on drum, cleaned out bio riser chamber and I’ve turned the pump up to about 16k an hour. I’ll run it like this for a while to see what happens to clarity and if the parameters change (which have been good). I think I may treat myself to an amalgam UV.
    before you spend money on a new UV I would run the pump at full throttle through the UV for a few months during May and June - way cheaper if it works than a new amalgam.

    dont forget the traditional 50w tube uv bulbs should be changed every 6 months not every year if in constnt use

    good luck

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  18. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion davethefish1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterRhino View Post
    before you spend money on a new UV I would run the pump at full throttle through the UV for a few months during May and June - way cheaper if it works than a new amalgam.

    dont forget the traditional 50w tube uv bulbs should be changed every 6 months not every year if in constnt use

    good luck
    it's amazing how long the amalgam UV's last, year 3 on the same 40watt tube for mine
    the amalgam replacement light still shows green too...

  19. #12
    Senior Member Rank = Gosai Dom G20's Avatar
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    I have a QK35 on a 4000 gallon pond and have had gin clear water since installing even during summer when I feed heavily.

    I have 2 20,000 vari pumps running on this at 80% as well as 40watt amalgam, bio chamber with 200litre of hel-x and k+ media and shower.

    Not had any issues with QK35 as not missed a beat for 2 years.

    Hope this helps.


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  20. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dom G20 View Post
    I have a QK35 on a 4000 gallon pond and have had gin clear water since installing even during summer when I feed heavily.

    I have 2 20,000 vari pumps running on this at 80% as well as 40watt amalgam, bio chamber with 200litre of hel-x and k+ media and shower.

    Not had any issues with QK35 as not missed a beat for 2 years.

    Hope this helps.


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    Thatís great to know. Iíve spent quite alot of my time today phoning over half a dozen different retailers about drum filters and every single one recommended Oase as being at the top of all their lists. Iím really surprised by this and at the moment I canít justify the expense. Iíve been thinking very seriously about the QK35 as it would definitely be able to handle the flow rate Iíll put through it and potentially save me money on reduced rinse times too.

    Envious you can run two 20k pumps, Iíve just worked my usage out today at 7.5kW per day on the pond alone. Thatís more than everything else combined in my whole house which is given the size of my house is surprising!

  21. #14
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Twhitenosugar's Avatar
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    If you're reconfiguring your filtration set up, how about installing an airlift to pump the water instead of using a conventional pond pump?

    It will save you a fair amount in the long run in terms of running costs and also not having to fork out for pond pumps every 5 or so years. Plus it will only involve a bit of 4" pipework and digging a narrow hole?



    Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk
    13,000L fibreglassed raised pond with window

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  23. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Twhitenosugar View Post
    If you're reconfiguring your filtration set up, how about installing an airlift to pump the water instead of using a conventional pond pump?

    It will save you a fair amount in the long run in terms of running costs and also not having to fork out for pond pumps every 5 or so years. Plus it will only involve a bit of 4" pipework and digging a narrow hole?



    Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk
    I keep seeing post about airlifts but Iím so old school Iím not sure where Iíd start tbh. Iíve also got a really annoying neighbour whoís caused me endless stress because of complaints about the pond because of water splashing into it (I have two 1.5Ē returns and both are under water). Would it be noisy? What is the average size air pump that would be needed to shift say:-
    15k LPH
    20k LPH

    Thanks,
    David

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  25. #16
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Twhitenosugar's Avatar
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    Tbh I was wary about whether they'd work, but they definitely do. I know of at least nick, ukzero, John, slickbe and myself (there may be others) on this forum who have successfully used airlifts on their ponds, so be assured they definitely do.

    In terms of noise, I'd say the noisest part is the air pump, if you can dampen that down, then it is very quiet. I put my air pumps in a wham plastic box, drilled some holes to let air in and lined the box with celotex insulation. With the box sat on concrete blocks, I can't hear my pumps from outside of the shed.

    Also you can create a sound muffler (e.g. A 4" disc of jap matting) that can plug into the top of pipework on the air vents of the airlift to dampen any sound out.

    In terms of air pump, you'd need an air pump that is 40 - 60lpm for the air lift - it doesn't have to be huge, which is what makes them so efficient to run.

    It's hard to say what flow you will get as there are so many variables. But to give you an idea, a put a hi-blow 40xp pump on mine and the flow was more than my solum 16 drum could handle. It was dropping the water level so much it kept washing. At a guess, I'd say a decent 40lpm pump can do somewhere in the region of 14k - 24k lph flow.

    If you have a moving bed you'll need extra air for that. I use a hi-blow 80xp for my air lift and moving bed (210l of k1) and it works fine for both, you just need a manifold to control how much air goes to the air lift and bio filter.

    In terms of the airlift, you essentially making a really tall u bend out of 4" pipe on the pipework after your filters. It needs to be between 1.5 - 2m deep (the deeper the better). Then you shove an air stone down the ubend closest to the pond and the rising air will draw water from the filters, up through the bubbles and then at the top of the u bend it will flow into the pond (pond returns need to be under water but close to the surface). You need to let the air escape, so you need to put a swept T (or 2 if you have the space) on the pipework between the airlift and pond.



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    Last edited by Twhitenosugar; 09-04-2024 at 09:07 AM.
    13,000L fibreglassed raised pond with window

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  27. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Twhitenosugar View Post
    Tbh I was wary about whether they'd work, but they definitely do. I know of at least nick, ukzero, John, slickbe and myself (there may be others) on this forum who have successfully used airlifts on their ponds, so be assured they definitely do.

    In terms of noise, I'd say the noisest part is the air pump, if you can dampen that down, then it is very quiet. I put my air pumps in a wham plastic box, drilled some holes to let air in and lined the box with celotex insulation. With the box sat on concrete blocks, I can't hear my pumps from outside of the shed.

    Also you can create a sound muffler (e.g. A 4" disc of jap matting) that can plug into the top of pipework on the air vents of the airlift to dampen any sound out.

    In terms of air pump, you'd need an air pump that is 40 - 60lpm for the air lift - it doesn't have to be huge, which is what makes them so efficient to run.

    It's hard to say what flow you will get as there are so many variables. But to give you an idea, a put a hi-blow 40xp pump on mine and the flow was more than my solum 16 drum could handle. It was dropping the water level so much it kept washing. At a guess, I'd say a decent 40lpm pump can do somewhere in the region of 14k - 24k lph flow.

    If you have a moving bed you'll need extra air for that. I use a hi-blow 80xp for my air lift and moving bed (210l of k1) and it works fine for both, you just need a manifold to control how much air goes to the air lift and bio filter.

    In terms of the airlift, you essentially making a really tall u bend out of 4" pipe on the pipework after your filters. It needs to be between 1.5 - 2m deep (the deeper the better). Then you shove an air stone down the ubend closest to the pond and the rising air will draw water from the filters, up through the bubbles and then at the top of the u bend it will flow into the pond (pond returns need to be under water but close to the surface). You need to let the air escape, so you need to put a swept T (or 2 if you have the space) on the pipework between the airlift and pond.



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    Thanks for the detailed reply. When I get time Iíll do some research h to see if I can find design and photos of what others have done. No point in reinventing the wheel!

    Still need to decide what Iím going to do with the filtration system given if I go that route Iíll have to start adapting the rear of the Draco bio tooÖ.

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  29. #18
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Twhitenosugar's Avatar
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    No problem. I'm happy to help out with any questions you have, and I'm sure the others will be happy to chip in too.

    When you say you'll have to change the back of the bio filter, is that to convert it from a 2" outlet to 4" outlet?

    Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk
    13,000L fibreglassed raised pond with window

  30. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Twhitenosugar View Post
    No problem. I'm happy to help out with any questions you have, and I'm sure the others will be happy to chip in too.

    When you say you'll have to change the back of the bio filter, is that to convert it from a 2" outlet to 4" outlet?

    Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk
    Yes - the filter has two 2Ē outlets, but thinking about it, Iím not sure itís possible to alter the Draco as it has an outlet chamber in it to stop the media from being sucked out.

 

 

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