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  1. #1
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Rokusai Ianb's Avatar
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    Ozone Generators

    Hi has anyone tried an ozone generator set up, looking at what they claim to do is interesting
    I read an article that reports the average ORP in a koi pond is around 274 MV which is what mine is. The article claims to raise the average ORP to 375MV depending on stocking levels and will also kill bacteria alge and free swimming parasites.The systems seem a bit pricey but if they do what they say then water quality could be significantly improved.
    Thanks
    Ian



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion davethefish1's Avatar
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    ORP probes need very frequent calibration ime, using them before on a marine reef system.
    and to be fair there are probably 100 things that you can do to improve ORP in a pond without using ozone

    the reason most use ozone has little to do with killing parasites and algae, (a UV steriliser could do this)
    and more to do with removing tannins from the water to get sparkling crystal clear water clarity.

    ok if you have an extreme high end pond,
    with oodles of time to monitor and check the accuracy of the ORP controller probes, but too much expense and hassle for the average pond imo

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Jussai Djstiles999's Avatar
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    Seems to be a lot of potential with ozone but need to get a big volume of water going through the mixer to make it work, so potentially more than one system to get all returns covered? It’s an oxidising system as you create water with an extra oxygen molecule, as it’s unstable one molecule is always trying to leave and attach to anything it can find. I ran a simple system on my grow on and think it worked really well
    13,243 gallons, Filtreau HF30ís K1 capacity of 1,400l, Bakki Shower, BHM and understanding wife

  4. #4
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Rokusai Ianb's Avatar
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    https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKE wilkarl2qr6AhVfhf0HHZLuDasQFnoECAkQAQ&url=https%3A %2F%2Fwww.koicarp.org.uk%2Fkoi_water_garden_ozone. htm&usg=AOvVaw3RMUacSCacet5NsqaM3MX

    not sure if this link will work but this is what I was reading bearing in mind that at the end of the day the author would be hoping for a sale.

    At present I am using super tab to try and get the bacterial load lower, which claims to act as an oxident and increases Radox potential in water and anaerobic bacteria is strongly suppressed.
    I have been using this for 3 months now, not really noticed any signifiant increase in Orp or reduction in TDS but the water is much clearer and appears to shine at 5he surface

    I also have some Butrons lacto remedy which claims to that the lacto acid bacteria produces enzymes that break down protein in organic waste. The product competes with bed bacteria consuming all the food needed by bad bacteria which will then die.

    At present I am keen to got my water better by lowering the bacterial load may use the lacto occasionally, I flush my bottom drain daily but have still had a battle with skin flukes and bacterial issues for the last 2 years, looks like larnex pro has knocked them back for now as I have clean scrapes after trying fluke sole plus and fluke M, levisomole, etc.

    I would be great full for any advice on lowering bacterial load

    Thanks
    Ian

  5. #5
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Appreciate it is easy to say this and the reality isn't always obvious or straight forward, but it is all about balance.

    If you create an environment where good bacteria can flourish, they will be the dominant force and bacterial issues will rarely be a problem.

    That I think should be the goal, unless you really want to spend money setting up Ozone etc (which I have next to no knowledge about).


    But I also know it isn't always easy.

    2 weeks ago an entire flock of geese crapped in my pond. On CCTV it honestly looked like a WW2 bombardment, maybe a dozen or more splashes in the pond. If you read up on geese droppings you'll find they allegedly carry a whole list of nasty bacteria including campylobacter, e-coli, salmonella etc.

    The last 3 days my Koi haven't been right and I've not been able to get to the bottom of it as yet. Maybe just coincidence, but the geese droppings and of course the recent temperature reduction are the only things different in my pond from when the koi were full of health. Ozone would probably be your friend in this scenario.

  6. #6
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Rokusai Ianb's Avatar
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    Thanks RS2000, I think one of the best ways to keep water good is to change a decent amount of water with a trickle in and out but as I have struggled with flukes for some time due to treatments not being effective, I have been doing more batch changes five days after treatments then treating again to stop treatments being thinned down, hopefully I am on top of it now and can keep everything much fresher
    I have actually taken filters off to try and see if bacteria was building up in the filters,even though I did regular filter maintenance. I used to have a nexus followed by a bead (120 liters K1micro) on the bottom drain, a sieve followed by a bacci (15 KG MHM) on the skimmer. I have took the bead and bacci off, taking media out gradually. I just wanted to concentrate on keeping my bottom drain flushed daily with a decent flow rate through pipe work because I didn’t have anywhere as much problems with just the nexus, but this may just be coincidence so gone back to basics, my readings are now.
    Ammonia nil- on chart
    nitrite 0.045 using hanna checker
    nitrate 10 mg/l
    ph stable at 7.8
    kh 6 GD
    GH- stable 2GD
    Pond TDS 280 - tap water is 100TDS with no KH so I buffer KH to 6 with SB which takes my known TDS to about 208- therefore about 80ppm of waste/pollutants,
    ORP 280
    Think these readings are half decent, some koi going soon when my mate builds his pond, which will hopefully reduce theramones.
    Thanks
    Ian

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