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  1. #161



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  3. #162
    I must say, been following with interest since you started, my build was stressful enough and you have added complications hat off to you for I guess thinking outside the box, or not following the norm/current build fashion Full garden remodel with pondFull garden remodel with pond what's the next step?
    Cheers
    Jay

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  5. #163



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  7. #164

    You can see here on the left side where it slightly bowed at the bottom. Next step is to wait until Monday take off forms and hope these guys come back and grind it smooth and plum for me.


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  9. #165



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  11. #166
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve9814 View Post
    So!!! Stressful day. Even with all my bracing one of my sides bowed out!

    For anyone else doing this in the future put bracing on the bottom of the pond between each side.

    I did this originally but removed after I thought the banding was strong enough as we needed space for guys to move to screed the base.

    One wall is out of plum but they say they are gonna come back and grind it flush which works out better as it means any little spots that werenít completely level in my form work will be sanded down.




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    Ahhh that's a shame Steve, I am hoping the rest of it is relatively okay though mate ??

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  13. #167
    Quote Originally Posted by dbs View Post
    Ahhh that's a shame Steve, I am hoping the rest of it is relatively okay though mate ??
    Yeah itís only one wall thatís basically gonna be thicker at the bottom corner.

    The guys seemed to be sure it will be easy for them to come back and grind it down with a diamond grinder.

    Gonna take forms down on Monday and see how it looks.

    Every other wall was perfect though. I guess itís just the long back wall had a lot more pressure than anywhere else.


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  15. #168
    Nice jobFull garden remodel with pond did they add anything to the mix for extra strength? Or was it not needed!


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  16. #169
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai GadgetBazza's Avatar
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    I think C35 mix was mentioned previously, plenty strong enough.

    just had a read through your thread, I’ve cast my pond walls with poured concrete although I used insulated concrete forms rather than timber. Couple of reasons, firstly the insulation element, secondly, ease of installation, especially as mine is all curved. Hats off to you for doing it in timber.

    one last question, I didn’t notice anything about bottom drains or returns being fitted before your concrete pour, did I miss it?

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  18. #170
    Concrete was c50 in the end.

    I didnít use ICF blocks as I did the slab and the base at same time. You need a solid base slab to sit the icf blocks on as far as Iím aware.

    I had to hire a concrete pump/crane to reach 20m out from the truck and over a 14m high house.

    Yes I have a bottom drain piped into the slab


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  20. #171
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai GadgetBazza's Avatar
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    C50! I didn't even know it went up to 50!

    Yes ICF requires the slab down first, ideally with starter rebar set in place for the ICF forms.

    Glad you got your BD in, was pretty sure you had that covered, hoping you have your returns done as well as drilling a single 2" hole that I missed, destroyed the core bit!

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  22. #172
    I donít have any returns as my returns are via my stainless steel oase waterfall 1.5m long


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  24. #173
    Yeah c50 didnít know it existed either until the concrete guy I bought from recommended it as the strongest he supplies. A google search after it does have some references to it but not as common as c30 or 40 I guess as itís mainly for extremely heavy duty construction


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  25. #174
    One thing for sure ... this concrete is already practically impervious to water by the looks of it!

    Had a lot of rain last 2 days and the slip of concrete all over my garden only a thin layer that I need to break up with a sledge hammer in the coming days is filling up my garden with water.

    The pond appears to be filling up too and I donít even have the liner in yet


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  27. #175
    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetBazza View Post
    C50! I didn't even know it went up to 50!

    Yes ICF requires the slab down first, ideally with starter rebar set in place for the ICF forms.

    Glad you got your BD in, was pretty sure you had that covered, hoping you have your returns done as well as drilling a single 2" hole that I missed, destroyed the core bit!
    When I looked into icf - mainly as I am planning to build my own house with icf in the future I couldnít find out for sure - donít you need to reinforce the ICF forms with timber anyway? I would have thought there is no way those icf forms are strong enough to hold the concrete in place


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  29. #176
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai dbs's Avatar
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    Damn that sure sounds like some tough concrete

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  31. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve9814 View Post
    When I looked into icf - mainly as I am planning to build my own house with icf in the future I couldn’t find out for sure - don’t you need to reinforce the ICF forms with timber anyway? I would have thought there is no way those icf forms are strong enough to hold the concrete in place
    You do need to brace the ICF once built with adjustable stands yes. We didn't see any issues with them malforming under the pressure or weight of the concrete, in fact we had one section of timber formed structure on the pool where we have an odd shape that I needed blow before the ICF did. It locks together pretty well and is full of plastic re-inforcement. I'll put a picture below of the temporary re-inforcing struts we put on the pool in place before you pour, only needs to be there for 2 days.

    IMG_3608.jpg
    IMG_3625.jpg

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  33. #178
    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetBazza View Post
    You do need to brace the ICF once built with adjustable stands yes. We didn't see any issues with them malforming under the pressure or weight of the concrete, in fact we had one section of timber formed structure on the pool where we have an odd shape that I needed blow before the ICF did. It locks together pretty well and is full of plastic re-inforcement. I'll put a picture below of the temporary re-inforcing struts we put on the pool in place before you pour, only needs to be there for 2 days.

    IMG_3608.jpg
    IMG_3625.jpg
    Looks nice. Did you have a local place that let you hire that metal for cheap?


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  35. #179
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Koiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve9814 View Post
    I don’t have any returns as my returns are via my stainless steel oase waterfall 1.5m long
    Hi Steve,

    This is a very interesting build thread.

    I'm just wondering if having a return only via the waterblade may not be ideal in the long term. I have both a waterblade and underwater return on my pond, run off separate pumps - the waterblade via a skimmer and the underwater from the bottom drain. The benefits of having both are significant:

    1) Should one fail, I still have an element of water turnover whilst I sort out the problem.

    2) The underwater return creates current within the pond that in turn works with the gravity pull via the BD to circulate the water on the floor of the pond to encourage the debris into the BD. I have found this to be absolutely essential to keep the bottom of my pond clear, so much so, that this year I actually changed my filter set up to reduce my pipework and 90 degree bends and increase the underwater return flow rate. This has largely solved the issue I was having with some dead spots on the bottom where debris would accumulate, despite having a sloped floor to the BD. Once algae has established on all the surfaces, it acts like a velvet carpet so you need a pretty strong current to drag all the debris into the drain! A waterblade only return I fear will not create sufficient circulation at the lower levels and you may experience dead spots on the bottom.

    3) An underwater return creates a circulating current against which the fish can swim (important for their health and development).

    4) A second return allows you to turn off the waterblade during winter to reduce heat loss from the pond. I use poly carb covers over my pond as soon as temps start to drop and at that point my waterblade goes off as I don't want any wind chill factor getting to the surface of my unheated pond hence do not have a gap through with the waterblade can run. Without the ability to continue to circulate your water without a waterblade running, you are eliminating your options for winter time protection. If there was one thing I wished I'd done with my new pond build, it was to actually have TWO underwater returns - one at the level just below the surface that I have, but also another lower down, with valve control on both, so I could regulate the currents as required. I also wish I'd had a 2" return and not a 1.5" but to alter things now would require drilling through two walls of breeze block and the fibreglass... which I'm pretty reluctant to do!!!

    5) Depending on how your waterblade is situated, you may need a good long spillway on it to prevent water being lost in high winds! You say your blade is 1.5m long, but I'm guessing what you mean is 1.5m wide?! My waterblade is only 600mm wide, but comes out the back of my filter house so goes through the walls and over copings into the pond. I learned the hard way that the original blade with a 550mm spillway was not long enough and in the wind the water would blow out over the copings and run down the sides of the pond. So, whilst the pond was stripped down for the filter upgrade, I replaced my waterblade with another that has a 700mm spillway and that problem is now solved. Another costly mistake, but luckily the underwater return took up the slack when my blade water was going everywhere but back into the pond!!

    WB Spillways.JPG

    I hope you find this input helpful and please don't take it as criticism in any way. I just know that I wished I'd been a member of this forum before I did my pond rebuild as there are many things I've since learned that I wish I had incorporated into my pond, but sadly it really is too late now
    Last edited by Koiz; 27-10-2020 at 05:33 PM.
    11,440L Raised Pond, BD, Oase ProfiClear, Bitron 55W, 2x10k Aquaforte Varios, Skimmer to Waterblade

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  37. #180
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai GadgetBazza's Avatar
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    Have to agree Koiz. I didn't respond initially as I bottled making any negative impact on Steve's fantastic efforts. I would have put returns in to future proof if nothing else. I have four 4" air lift returns on my build, but also added four 2" mid level returns for the under currents that you describe as well as the water fall, which may or may not be included at the outset, but pipework is included regardless.

    I'm trying to think of a way that the current can be introduced without having to retro fit returns in to the wall, but I can't at the minute??? I suppose you could draw a massive flow and by pass the filtration for some of it to try and introduce some current that way, but I'm guessing the water blade would likely turn into a jet of some kind?

    Fingers crossed it might not be an issue on Steve's pond.

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