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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsonbem View Post
    I will install it this weekend minus the inlet slide valve since they dont think it's a requirement and see how it performs. I will run other established in pond filters in tandem until the pod matures. I will throw in the blagdon pond start powder and the EA pond bomb balls into the pod to speed up the cycle. At what point is it safe to remove the tandem filters and let the pod run on its own
    If there is an NRV on the inlet of the version you have or the inlet is designed differently now then maybe you can use it without a valve on the inlet but it's always better to have one even if you have to buy an inline valve and fit it to your incoming pipe work. If for whatever reason in the future you have to remove the Eazy Pod you then have the valve to isolate the supply to it. Maybe the NRV goes tits up same applies.

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  3. #42
    Makes sense I will see about fitting it in line with the inlet pipe somehow thanks

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  5. #43
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    It's a bit like isolating a light fitting by just turning it off at the switch instead of turning it off at the fuse board.

    It would still be good to see a photo of it just in case there is something obvious that we are missing.

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  7. #44
    Just had email from EA who say I can dismantle the valve, fit the threaded bit and rebolt the valve back together

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  9. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsonbem View Post
    Makes sense I will see about fitting it in line with the inlet pipe somehow thanks
    Does the hose tail unscrew from the inlet?

    If so remove it and fit a flexi rubber boot and then a proper ball valve.

    You may need something like a 3" to 2.5" flexi rubber boot reducer to attach a 2" ball valve to the inlet or if you go for a 1.5" ball valve then you'll need a 3" to 2" flexi rubber boot reducer. You should then be able to use a solvent weld hose tail in the 1.5" ball valve. Not sure if you can get a 2" solvent weld hose tail as I've only got a 1.5" ball valve on my Eazy Pod but that's on the waste outlet. I think the inlet has a 2" slide valve and some strange fittings to go down to a 40mm flexi pipe.

    I only suggested using ball valves as it's a better fit for standard sized flexi rubber boot reducers. Well it is for a 1.5" anyway.

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  11. #46
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    Looks like these replies are out of sequence now

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  13. #47
    God knows what EA designers are doing. I have dismantled the slide valve bought separately only to find that the male thread is qtr inch too long plus no 'o' ring which wouldnt be any use anyway as it cannot tighten enough to compress. I guess plumber tape would resolve this and then once the valve is reassembled I cannot fit the hosetail unless I raise the pod of the floor to get a pipe connected...... Aaargh.

  14. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsonbem View Post
    God knows what EA designers are doing. I have dismantled the slide valve bought separately only to find that the male thread is qtr inch too long plus no 'o' ring which wouldnt be any use anyway as it cannot tighten enough to compress. I guess plumber tape would resolve this and then once the valve is reassembled I cannot fit the hosetail unless I raise the pod of the floor to get a pipe connected...... Aaargh.
    EA are known for using threads that nothing else will fit so you have to buy the replacement parts from them. The waste set ups are a nightmare for that as myself and Fred found out. His Eazy Pod had a slide valve on the waste and mine had a ball valve on the waste. When I looked at the set of instructions I downloaded a couple of years ago it showed the same valves as I had but when speaking to the spares guy at EA I was told he's not heard of them having a ball valve on the waste even though the instructions I downloaded from the EA site clearly showed a ball valve on the waste. When my ball valve snapped fortunately the internals just broke but the valve held water. After being bullshitted to by EA I just left the old valve in place, fitted a 2" flexi rubber boot elbow and then a 1.5" ball valve after that. A short bit of 1.5" pressure pipe was held into the outlet of the ball valve with a 2" to 1.5" flexi rubber boot reducer and jobs a good'en

    It's been working like that for about a year now

    With Fred's waste he tried all sorts of different fittings and adapters but nothing matched the threads so he ended up buying the replacement parts from EA.

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  16. #49
    Thanks for that, I will pop to my local aquatics and see what fittings we can muster to get the slide valve fitted.

  17. #50
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    As for raising the Eazy Pod up off the floor to fit the hose tail, that sounds familiar as I had to raise mine up anyway as my pond is slightly raised. I made a platform out of blocks, bricks and a 600 x 600 slab. The inlet just hung over the side of the top of the slab and just below the top of the slab.

    The instructions say when converting a pump fed version to gravity you have to remove the sleeve from the inlet and cut the end of the inlet off so you are left with a short 3" sleeve which you attach the inlet fitting and valve to. This may only apply to the older versions of the standard Eazy Pod though?

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  19. #51
    How do I put photos on the forum

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  21. #52
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    If you are using a laptop or PC then just save the photos to your desktop and then use the link on the top of the reply boxes. The icon is a square picture frame with what appears to be an image of a tree in it. Then use that to select and upload the pictures.

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  23. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Frimley Koi keeper View Post
    If you are using a laptop or PC then just save the photos to your desktop and then use the link on the top of the reply boxes. The icon is a square picture frame with what appears to be an image of a tree in it. Then use that to select and upload the pictures.
    Got the pod up
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  25. #54
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    Like the Ketter shed idea

    Looks good, nice work.

    What size return did you go for in the end? Looks like 3" in the photo?

    At least you went for a black net unlike me who thought green was a good idea big mistake, need to swap mine over to black when I alter the frame over the pond.

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  27. #55
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    Once everything is sorted and you are happy with how it all works you might want to shorten the airline feeding the Eazy pod as that will give you a better flow rate. I used 12mm jubilee clips on my airline joints. As I went for an NRV just before the valve on the top of the filter because my air pump is sitting below the Eazy Pod. It looks like you have got 2 different types of 8mm ID airlines?

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  29. #56
    Yes 3inch....needs to be a bit longer so will get a straight connector. Wifey wants it all disguised so plants etc to grow in front of the shed and amongst the outlet pipe next year. Pleased with result currently running in tandem with the pressurised filter.

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  31. #57
    The airline were already in the pond I just removed the old pump and used the eazipod but had to extend its length a little. I bought a new pump solely for the pod 14000ltr but with a height of about 3ft it brings it down to about 10k. Seems to be working fine, the water level is just a couple of inches below the overflow

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  33. #58
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    Are you running the pressure filter before the Eazy Pod as a temporary setup until the Pod matures?

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  35. #59
    The pressure filter has been running about a year and has given me good quality water but ponds struggles to stay clear from green water, hence the upgrade. The pressure also feeds my blade. In 2 minds whether to continue with the pressure or decommission it and just pump feed the blade

  36. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsonbem View Post
    The airline were already in the pond I just removed the old pump and used the eazipod but had to extend its length a little. I bought a new pump solely for the pod 14000ltr but with a height of about 3ft it brings it down to about 10k. Seems to be working fine, the water level is just a couple of inches below the overflow
    That sounds about right for the water level but you may want to run the pump a bit slower as the water has to be in and around the micro K1 for long enough to allow the bacteria to colonise on it.

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