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  1. #181
    Quote Originally Posted by dbs View Post
    Well, at least they have put in some maintenance loops
    Draco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio review

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

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  3. #182
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    I will keep an eye on it and if need be it's easy enough to cut or add time.
    My water bill has gone from 20 a month to 70 a month with many many overflows and screw ups with trying to maintain a constant waterline...... hopefully this will solve that
    Neil

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    Damn that is an increase to try and keep down... glad I am not on a meter !!

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  5. #183
    Quote Originally Posted by dbs View Post
    Damn that is an increase to try and keep down... glad I am not on a meter !!
    Well if he doesn't manage it there are plenty of maintenance loops around that area lol

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  7. #184
    Senior Member Rank = Gosai Twhitenosugar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    Thanks a lot Steve.
    On mine if the water level is only half way up the waste pipe I can't get the sensor down far enough into the water without coming out of the sensor holder?
    Neil

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    This is the same issue i had. I swear the stem on the float switch is not long enough.

    If your timer workaround doesn't work or fails after a while, perhaps try dropping the float switch so that the stem is essentially hanging loose and lightly clamp the cable in place instead.

    I did that back in November time and it has been working well since then. It yo yos a bit, but it's found it's level now. I now only get a bit of water overflow the waste chute if I've done a recent water change and add more water than I purged.

    I think the problems you are having is (apart from getting the drum and sensor height fettled) simply because you are trying to pull too much water through the drum.


    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    12,500L fibreglassed raised pond with window

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  9. #185
    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    I will keep an eye on it and if need be it's easy enough to cut or add time.
    My water bill has gone from 20 a month to 70 a month with many many overflows and screw ups with trying to maintain a constant waterline...... hopefully this will solve that
    Neil

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    i have my trickle in flow higher volume of water going in than what the drum and over flow wastes

    my new jet nozzles use half the water previous nozzles used , im sure you could change your nozzles too.

    i find it easier maintaining a constant over flow to waste via a 1/4" tube connected to wall skimmer at a pre determined height rather than a water line as too many variables to consider and likely the level will drop in warmer weather for example.

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  11. #186
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    I've wired up the water level sensor temporarily in the old pond.

    This is made simple by the switch box. I use an unused port - put the cable in, clamp it then send the cable over to the pump connection (#1 port on this set up). I use a electrical connector block then put electricians tape around the block.

    With the switch I have - the brown and black are connected when the sensor is at a position it would be at the right water level. The blue is connected if the sensor points down so this doesn't need connecting so I simply terminate the cable in a block and then wrap that in electrician's tape just to insulate it. Should the water level drop and the sensor triggers - this blue would then end up with the power applied to it - so it's vital that this is insulated and not simply cut and left dangling.

    The brown wire then simply goes into the switch power block (the grey block).

    IMG_8134.jpeg

    Then I've positioned it on the side - the float in a spot that it will not be kept upright by Lilly pads for the pump pipe. I just used a plastic thing with two screws to clamp to the wood.

    The float doesn't have to be straight up - it can be on an angle. As my pond isn't that deep, I want it to trigger sooner rather than later.

    IMG_8135.jpeg

    Covid haircut! Need to get that cut soon
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  13. #187
    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    It's arrived and I am one happy MF.
    So I ordered this from Amazon in the UK and it cost me a whole 19.00

    I have it set to come on for 35 seconds (1 whole revolution) and off for 20 minutes.........this off time will hopefully change to 30 to 45 minutes after I have seen it running for a while.

    I have basically disabled the Draco Drum sensor by lifting it up above the maximum waterline.
    Here is a video of how I have it set up, hopefully no more sleepless nights whoring about the bloody drum dumping water
    https://youtu.be/V-YFrLSCCCQ

    Neil

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    Update
    Thats 3 full days of running without any hiccups, I can switch my waterfall on and off now without causing the Drum to have a fit, I can backwash my bead filter now without panicking about getting the levels correct again...............its all done automatically now

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  15. #188
    Quote Originally Posted by NickK-UK View Post
    I've wired up the water level sensor temporarily in the old pond.

    This is made simple by the switch box. I use an unused port - put the cable in, clamp it then send the cable over to the pump connection (#1 port on this set up). I use a electrical connector block then put electricians tape around the block.

    With the switch I have - the brown and black are connected when the sensor is at a position it would be at the right water level. The blue is connected if the sensor points down so this doesn't need connecting so I simply terminate the cable in a block and then wrap that in electrician's tape just to insulate it. Should the water level drop and the sensor triggers - this blue would then end up with the power applied to it - so it's vital that this is insulated and not simply cut and left dangling.

    The brown wire then simply goes into the switch power block (the grey block).

    IMG_8134.jpeg

    Then I've positioned it on the side - the float in a spot that it will not be kept upright by Lilly pads for the pump pipe. I just used a plastic thing with two screws to clamp to the wood.

    The float doesn't have to be straight up - it can be on an angle. As my pond isn't that deep, I want it to trigger sooner rather than later.

    IMG_8135.jpeg

    Covid haircut! Need to get that cut soon
    Hay Nick I have exactly the same float switch in my suction pit, I had an Electrican instal mine, as I am not comfortable messing with electrics. Just a thought you could have the switch inside a bucket (with holes in it) that sits in the pond, that way no way for the Lillies to mess with it.
    Neil

  16. #189
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    Hay Nick I have exactly the same float switch in my suction pit, I had an Electrican instal mine, as I am not comfortable messing with electrics. Just a thought you could have the switch inside a bucket (with holes in it) that sits in the pond, that way no way for the Lillies to mess with it.
    Neil
    One option is to use a plastic garden drain mesh (the long strips) then use them to separate an area off. You can make the area large enough so the cable has space to move too.

    This is only short term until the new pond is finished.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

  17. #190
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    Well it earned it's stars today - I was fitting a new water pipe (MDPE pipe) but forgot I pressed the emergency stop (latching) on the controller.

    As the old pond is pump-fed and the drum blocks (this is the same for most RDFs that don't have a a weir bypass) the pumped water was overflows the waste chute.

    I popped out to screw fix for some additional bits.. and I was fitting and thought - something doesn't sound right. Sure enough the newly installed water level sensor had stopped the pond from being pumped dry:

    IMG_8143.jpg

    Here's the sensor:

    IMG_8142.jpg

    The air pump is still running and it doesn't seem to yo-yo the water level as I thought it may.

    I now have the dechlorinator running - so this is working it's butt off (worth the 50 for the 3rd time vs the amount of pond start I'd have needed).

    One thing I think the Draco controller should have is a warning buzzer or bleeper that runs when the emergency stop is pressed. That would stop this scenario where you get distracted..


    So this is the third time that a scenario where the drum has blocked causing an overflow to waste.

    The good news is that in the new pond the gravity feed will not allow it to empty in this way, regardless if it's running on airlift or pumped.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  19. #191
    Quote Originally Posted by NickK-UK View Post
    Well it earned it's stars today - I was fitting a new water pipe (MDPE pipe) but forgot I pressed the emergency stop (latching) on the controller.

    As the old pond is pump-fed and the drum blocks (this is the same for most RDFs that don't have a a weir bypass) the pumped water was overflows the waste chute.

    I popped out to screw fix for some additional bits.. and I was fitting and thought - something doesn't sound right. Sure enough the newly installed water level sensor had stopped the pond from being pumped dry:

    IMG_8143.jpg

    Here's the sensor:

    IMG_8142.jpg

    The air pump is still running and it doesn't seem to yo-yo the water level as I thought it may.

    I now have the dechlorinator running - so this is working it's butt off (worth the 50 for the 3rd time vs the amount of pond start I'd have needed).

    One thing I think the Draco controller should have is a warning buzzer or bleeper that runs when the emergency stop is pressed. That would stop this scenario where you get distracted..


    So this is the third time that a scenario where the drum has blocked causing an overflow to waste.

    The good news is that in the new pond the gravity feed will not allow it to empty in this way, regardless if it's running on airlift or pumped.
    Get yourself a timer like I did mate........with that you can put the lid in the drum and forget about itDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio review
    Neil

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

  20. #192
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    Get yourself a timer like I did mate........with that you can put the lid in the drum and forget about itDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio reviewDraco Drum Solum 16 + Standard Bio review
    Neil
    That wouldn't work in this instance - this is pump fed, and the system's emergency button was latched on (my fault). With pump fed the longer the drum is blocked the larger the overflow.

    However on a more positive note It gave me a chance to open up the waste and have look inside the drum completely.

    IMG_8145.jpeg


    The sand and grit in the drum inlet chamber and on the red seal. Cleaned that off.

    IMG_8146.jpeg


    The waste chute is relatively clean (I'd cleaned it about a month or so ago). It also shows why it's important to be able to get the chute out to see the entire drum.

    IMG_8147.jpg

    So I selected #4 wash and gave it a manual..

    IMG_8149.jpeg

    What is also clear from this is the browny stripes on the drum - the bio film build up. Which would explain why the drum has been washing more recently.

    Also near the inlet there's quite a bit of waste build up - maybe worth adjusting the spray nozzle or even adding an additional spray nozzle so they're closer together thus you get more pressure. Either way it needs a good pressure wash once the pond is re-filled.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  22. #193
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    Just sorting out the MDPE. They need better pipe collars too.. so my solum16 is out of action, I've opened the bypass.. yet more crap to add to the pile to sort out.

    IMG_8151.jpg

    EFFAST coupler: https://www.effast.com/product-categ...ngs-and-pipes/

    So an easy fix if I can get the remains off the pipe and elbow..
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  24. #194
    Question
    With the drum running in gravity mode does it matter if the running water level is below the Bottom of the frame........ . see picture below
    Still getting lots of water in the drum via the 3 inch bottom drain line

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

  25. #195
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwgolf View Post
    Question
    With the drum running in gravity mode does it matter if the running water level is below the Bottom of the frame........ . see picture below
    Still getting lots of water in the drum via the 3 inch bottom drain line

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    So as long as you have a decent inlet water level (ie maximising the wet drum area in use) you could run the drum clean side completely empty.

    The only issue is that all the pressure of the water is against the mesh - if there's water on the clean side it helps to support the mesh. However if the water level is below the drum rim then you will not get any water flow through the there drum.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  27. #196
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    New part ordered along with the solvent and cleaner - I've been away in France unfortunately so until now the system has been on bypass.

    Can't wait to get the system back online. Think the fish are like "hey dude.. you forgotten about us?".

    I'll try heating and removing the bond then replacing the coupling side.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  29. #197
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai dbs's Avatar
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    Good luck getting g it swapped out Nick !!

  30. #198
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    New coupling arrived - different make, so it won't screw onto the existing other half of the coupling (a typical issue with fittings). So I will remove the coupling by sawing the fitting then using a chisel to remove.

    I'm hoping that the size of the fitting is small enough not to pull the spray bar out of the drum area as the fitting is a little wider.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  32. #199
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    So the coupling surgery went very well - there's a couple of techniques, depending if you want to save the pipe length or the fitting. In my case it was to save the pipe length and replace the fitting.

    Dremel with a cutting disc two cuts into the old fitting (this is going to be destroyed) about 1cm apart, just down short of the pipe itself and then use a chisel with a mallet (be very careful) and the fitting comes off in fractured pieces - you then simply use the chisel to remove the other pieces.
    IMG_8209.jpegIMG_8210.jpeg

    Use the chisel to remove any little bits left and I used emery paper first. A dry fit to just test first..

    IMG_8211.jpeg

    Next up use the Griffon cleaner/primer and then I used Tangit solvent on the inside of the fitting and the pipe.. push together hard for 20 seconds and wish bash bosh - it's stuck. Clean up any residue with a damp paper towel.

    IMG_8212.jpeg

    I'm giving it 10 minutes to fully harden inside before I start playing around with fitting into the drum.



    On a side note - if you want to save a fitting but destroy the pipe.. get a holesaw that fits inside the pipe. Use a wrench and then heat it up for 2 minutes using a propane torch. Put inside the pipe for a minute then the pipe, remove it and thePVC pipe is flexible, so use pliers and rotate it them, the pipe them comes away leaving the fitting. Just be careful of seals etc and remove the fitting union first and the seals if you can.



    EDIT:

    Success There's a very small weep on the elbow glue join - so I will simply use some sealant to solve that at a later date. My first every solvent glueing I could have perhaps put more glue on the inside of the fitting but hey.

    I set the pump to 10,000lph and stirred up the bio (as this had been taking the brunt of the bypass flow).. the drum triggered every few minutes. So I got out the Karcher jet wash and gave the mesh a blitzing with the lance (not the stone lance) whilst it rotated. That seemed to have helped immensely as the flow rate is back to normal. I had noted that it had been washing more frequently and the bio film could be seen on the inside.

    The 25mm MDPE pipe gives the system a lot more pressure based on the noise and flow rate. Even still - that pressure doesn't seem to translate to spray cleaning particularly well. Perhaps the jets need a clean out but it seems to do the job. I've left the system running at 10,000lph and turned down the tap pressure back to normal - there's no point in wasting water if it doesn't clean any more than a lower pressure level/flow rate.

    Later tonight I'll back the pump off to the normal rate but the pond should be clear tomorrow


    My gawd the drum needed a spray clean with it being on bypass:

    IMG_8217.jpg
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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  34. #200
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Hassai NickK-UK's Avatar
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    After going nuts washing almost every minute following the new coupling being fitted and the drum back in service, I can report that the solum is back to ~50-77minute washes at a leisurely 6000lph. The pond has cleared, although it always takes a few nights for the fish to stir up anything before it's completely clear.

    It does make a difference giving the drum a wash with a jet wash.
    1700 litres on 50 watts
    Planned 11,777 litres on 58 watts. 1300l anoxic, 4" airlifts, Solum 16, bio.

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