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  1. #1

    Advice on Solar Aerator, Automatic EazyPod and pond water level checker please!

    Hi there

    I would like some advice on the below please:

    1. Can anybody recommend a good Solar Aerator with battery back up? (how long would the battery back up typically last and how strong l/min would be good?)

    2. I am thinking of changing my filter for a lower maintenance filter (tired of cleaning the sponges and media!) - I was thinking of the automatic EazyPod - anybody have any recommendations for this or something similar? (Note, I don't have space for a Nexus)

    3. If I obtain an automatically cleaning filter (with waste pipe) I am concerned that something could go wrong and it could drain my pond water out - are there any devices that would alert/stop the automatic filter from cleaning when the water drops below a certain level?

    Any responses (to either of the questions) much appreciated!

    Note, I have a 3000 litre raised (pump fed) pond with no bottom drainage

    Many thanks



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Sansai pug's Avatar
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    As to the auto Eazy pod I have used the pods for years and they are a good filter the auto ones are still a little of a unknow as in all you hear is people having problems I will leave that hear for someone to jump in on the auto and say its all dancing. I would save the money and just get the Eazy pod air as the uv light is a problem on them as well if you have been hand cleaning filters you will love it and it only takes ten min to clean .The extra money saved from the auto model could then be put into a tub or barrel with a air stone and some k1 in it on the return from the pod to pond and this will then give you a Diy Nexus type filter.
    If you are pump feed then you should fit a float switch to cut the pump power if you stat to lose water I did a video on a cheap Diy alarm a week or two back catch it hear.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3q7Rx93Huc
    As to solar i have not seen a good cheap pond air system that works much more than when the suns out as the battery storage is always to small but if you look into my Channel videos i run a solar system that powers about half my pond power needs this time of year
    Hope this helps you a bit

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  4. #3
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion Frimley Koi keeper's Avatar
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    You beat me to it with the solar aerator reply lol

    The way I understand it is during the day the aerator will work OK but unless it is capable of charging the internal battery so it will last all night it may be a problem as naturally oxygen levels in the water drop over night so if anything you'd want the aerator to run all night and all day I would think?

  5. #4
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    As for the Eazy Pod, personally I would agree with Pug and go for a standard version with separate UVC and that way if you ever decide to upgrade your pond or fit a bottom drain in the current pond you can convert the Eazy Pod from pump fed to gravity fed. You can't do that with an automatic or a complete version due to the built in UVC. Also it may be easier to sell the standard version for the same reason I would use for buying one if that makes sense?

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  7. #5
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    As for the water level controller, all I did with mine was fit a float switch in the pond which turns everything off when the water level drops past a certain level. You can just use the amount of flex between the float and where you attach it to the side of the pond to get the depth right. Most of the flat or balloon shaped float switches have a bit of tolerance between where they switch off and where they switch back on to save everything switching on and off as you get surface movement on the water which is bouncing the float up and down a little bit. I think the float switches like I've described are usually capable of switching quite large loads, 2 to 3 kw which is about 8 to 12 amps without the need to start connecting them through relays.

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  9. #6
    Many thanks for the replies - really helpful!

    I didn't think there was a good solar Aerator - I've been googling for hours!

    Regarding the float switch - what does it wire to?

    Currently I have a switch box in my shed next to the pond which houses the electrics for my pump, UV and air. I'm not sure how/what I would connect the float switch to it - or is it to the pond pump somehow??

    Many thanks!

    David

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  11. #7
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    If the air pump is only going to be used to boil the Eazy Pod then you could do the same as I have done and fit a joint box before the switch box, then connect the float switch between the live supply and the switch box so it kills everything as you definitely want the pump and the UVC to go off together. If the air pump is aerating the pond then it's a tad more difficult to kill the pump and the UVC without killing the air pump too as it would be a good idea to keep that running even though the water isn't moving. If you can keep the water aerated then the fish will survive for longer.

    As for the alarm option you may want to check out the link Pug posted as I just have the switch killing my switch box and that's it. I have got a feeling that my pond air pump is on the switch box so maybe I should move that somehow. Anyone know a good electrician? lol

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    I'll have a look later when I'm on the laptop and see if I can sort you out a link for the right kind of float switch and maybe try to sort you out a drawing of how you can connect it up OK

    If you can let me know what your air pump is doing I'll add that to the drawing too if required?

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  15. #9
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    Guess where my pond air pump is fed from?

    Yes, the switch box that goes off with the float switch

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  17. #10
    Thank you very much!

    My air pump is directly into the pond. (not filter) so I don't want this to kill if the float switch goes off.

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  19. #11
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    OK same as mine then lol

    I have a simple solution to your set up, possibly?

    You will need an air pump to boil your Eazy Pod so you could connect that to you switch box in place of your current air pump then connect your current air pump via a separate waterproof switch and that gets connected to the joint box on the live side of the float switch. Job's a good'en OK so you will have to by a second air pump but as the one for boiling the Eazy Pod is only going to be used for a few minutes at a time every couple of days you have a spare pump should your other pump go wrong as that's going to be running 24/7 I guess?

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  21. #12
    Yes I am in the process of purchasing a separate air pump for the Eazypod (when I get it). Also, just spoke to an electrician today and am planning to have a separate socket int he shed so that the air pump for the pond plugs into it.

    I'm still not sure what to do with the float switch - do I just wire that into the switch box and if the water goes to low the whole switch box will turn off? Also how do I set what level of water I want o the float switch?

    Many thanks in advance!

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  23. #13
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    I'll try to sort you out a drawing later which should be easier than trying to explain it to you OK

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  25. #14
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    Hopefully this will make sense.

    Level switch for switch box and air pump .jpg

    The earth wires in the switch for the air pump for the pond should be connected together but are only shown as apart in the drawing as it was easier to show OK. I've not shown earth wires going to the level switch as I don't know if all the float switches require an earth connection.

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  27. #15
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    The supply needs to be RCD protected and I would use a waterproof switch and socket for the pond air pump as the Eazy Pod can splash water around when you clean it sometimes plus you don't need to worry too much about drying your hands before operating them if you have been cleaning the Eazy Pod and getting them wet.

    Water and electrics don't mix so better safe than sorry.

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  29. #16
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    As for the float switch, I'd go for something like this -

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Float...YAAOSw4h1c4k2O

    Without seeing the instructions I would go with Brown as the live in, Blue as the neutral in and Black as the switch live. It might be a live in and 2 switch lives out, one for high level and the other for low level, so read the instructions before connecting anything OK and if it is that the Blue is a neutral then connect that to the Neutral in the joint box. If it is a live in and 2 switch lives, then you will need to pick the correct one for the level (high or low) you require then make the unused wire safe in a bit of connector strip or similar. All the black dots are joints so require connector strip or similar OK.

    Any questions just ask OK.

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