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Thread: New DIY seive
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26-01-2020, 12:23 PM #21
I thought drums were more in the 60/70 micron range. 200 (0.20mm) vs 250 micron (0.25 mm) not much in it imo. Might just have to clean a little more regular. Hoping to make 2 screens seeing as I have 1.2m so I can just swap them.
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26-01-2020, 02:28 PM #22
Thought you said 200 mesh which is 70 micron?
Maybe you meant to say 200 micron big difference.
Not trying trying to contradict you Mike.John
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26-01-2020, 03:04 PM #23
New DIY seive
Maybe it is 200 mesh and not micron made an assumption that it was it does look fine
Looking at it you are right!
I’m sure I’ll find a use for it one day. Haha
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Mikeh83; 26-01-2020 at 03:11 PM.
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26-01-2020, 03:36 PM #24
It is a bit complicated Mike the bigger the mesh the smaller the holes.
That was cheap what you paid for it though and 4 ft of it
Thought of doing two screens and useing a fine one for a few hrs to clear fines as I am doing 10000 ltrs through the seive when it's up and going.John
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26-01-2020, 03:43 PM #25
What is the dimensions of the mesh screen you are using?
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26-01-2020, 03:55 PM #26
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28-01-2020, 04:26 PM #27
20200128_151244.jpg20200128_151338.jpg
Need a bit of advice folks.
In pic 1 the seive is connecting to the vortex which is covered in bubblewrap, in that position it would need a 45 deg after the tankconnecter is fitted and you are looking at the seive straight on.
In pic 2 the seive is angled so it is connected straight to the vortex no 45 deg needed but is at an angle.
Cant decide the best way ,
What do you guys think please ?
Dont think it makes any difference to the running performance just what it looks like.John
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28-01-2020, 06:29 PM #28
If its doesn't restrict flow I would go pic 1 . But that's just me I think clean lines look tidyer
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"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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29-01-2020, 07:57 AM #29
Agree picture 1.
Plus better flow. The less bends better flow
Fred
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29-01-2020, 09:03 AM #30John
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29-01-2020, 09:51 AM #31
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29-01-2020, 10:00 AM #32
Fred the little ones first tooth has fell out and the fairy left her a 5 note I couldn't look at it I almost fell over laughing thinking about you
Sent from my SM-G973F using TapatalkFreddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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29-01-2020, 11:47 AM #33
Hi john , sorry going to take you of my jobs list as your taking to long on this little job LOL
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29-01-2020, 11:50 AM #34
Hi john, sorry going to take you off my jobs list as you are taking to long on this little job. LOL
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29-01-2020, 04:56 PM #35
Hey Sammy it is dragging on a bit,started off well but the seive was getting me.
Had three attempts doing the frame for the mesh and wasnt happy with the slope on it,but done now just needs a good wash out.John
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29-01-2020, 05:01 PM #36
Thanks Aj and Fred, wanted to do no 1 but it wont work now due to the taper at the top of the vortex barrel,tried all sorts but no go.
Got to be right before I cut the hole in the vortex and no 2 is the only one that will,useing a 4ins rubber boot for a bit of give.
This has been dragging on for ages thought it would be done in two days.Last edited by john1; 29-01-2020 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Spelling
John
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30-01-2020, 12:55 AM #37
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30-01-2020, 09:19 AM #38
Vortex wont move closer due to the 90 inlet to the vortex its tight against the tank.
Cant see any other options Steve,its due to the bottle neck effect on the vortex which tilts the tank connecter upwards slightly,but could get it straight on with a rubber boot but then I have to angle the seive.John
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30-01-2020, 05:27 PM #39
After spending hrs today think I have got it,as in pic 1 pull the seive out and to the left it's the supporting timber in the way and just in front of it it will go in with a 45 deg.
Hopefully get it in in a couple of days.Last edited by john1; 30-01-2020 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Spelling
John
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30-01-2020, 10:00 PM #40
well done john you can be at mine next week to start them jobs now your sorted .
Running heater at low temp?
Covering the pond with polycarb should be enough to stop water temps dipping below 6C for the most...