Thread: Raised sleeper pond overflow without a skimmer

Starting a raised sleeper pond as soon as the weather improves. It's going to be around 2000 gallons, 3 inch bottom drain into a nexus 220 with 2 returns and a purge too. Will have another mid pull pumping to a tempest and back into the nexus bio section. I'm not fitting a skimmer as it's going to be covered and there are no trees any where near it so not too concerned with debris getting onto surface of the water. So I'm not sure where put in an over flow. What options do I have. Not keen on a pipe into the pond with an elbow as want it as neat as possible in the pond. I know I can add it to the nexus but then that's something I'm not keen on drilling etc. Any ideas?

Skimmers looking at the best option for the overflow too. Just everyone moans about the skimmer just hoovering up the food. As for 4" rather than 3". Was mainly due to the concern of waste settlement on a system that won't be pulling too much flow. Also I'm having to put 3 sweeping bends before I get to the nexus so was estimating that the 3" would be better suited to the 4k to 6k only being pulled through the bottom drain. Is this a fair estimation or am I off the mark?

In relation to a skimmer eating all the food i made this, I just pop it on when feeding, very cheap and simple to make, and works great

Originally Posted by Alburglar

One thing is for sure, if you find a 3" isn't enough, at any point in the future, you'll regret not going 4".
...and the Nexus was surely designed to work with a 4" drain. I would be very surprised if it wasn't.

I use a slide valve to shut the skimmer when feeding floating foods.
A physical obstruction like Martin's one is cheap and easy.
Others use air stones on a timer, either to come on with the auto feeder or a button that times to turn it off after 10mins feeding etc
My auto feeder has sinking food in it.

It doesn't have to be expensive I have the cheapest Kockney Koi bottom drain and a generic pool skimmer. Both were around £25 to 30 each.

In wall skimmers that suit a sleeper pond seem way over priced. What type did you use?

3" v 4" is also under debate but I'm going to need 3 ball or gate valves to the nexus with the purge. 2 of which will be outside so not keen on gate valves as history shows they always leak.

Originally Posted by Alburglar

This is what I have.
You might have to use the floating tube type.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285495186...mis&media=COPY

Floating tube type skimmer
https://www.cotswoldkoi.co.uk/produc...saAkkwEALw_wcB

The kockney one I've been looking at but not as easy to fit an overflow to that as the way too expensive in wall ones.

So trawling YouTube pond builds and using Telford koi pond as a bit of research as he's very precise and over engineers, which I think is great. I came across his build regarding bottom drain with a stand pipe. It has a few bends so uses it for rodding point and an overflow.

https://youtu.be/GVQXl4SMqdY?si=Ird5LXq5m8FemIyH

What are the negatives to this system. I'm considering this then having it go to a purge via a T then another bend into a nexus.

Originally Posted by K3vinjam3s

So trawling YouTube pond builds and using Telford koi pond as a bit of research as he's very precise and over engineers, which I think is great. I came across his build regarding bottom drain with a stand pipe. It has a few bends so uses it for rodding point and an overflow.

https://youtu.be/GVQXl4SMqdY?si=Ird5LXq5m8FemIyH

What are the negatives to this system. I'm considering this then having it go to a purge via a T then another bend into a nexus.

The only problem I can see with putting the overflow on that part of the system is that there will be a difference in the height of the water when the system is running and the system is static, which means if you set the overflow level when the return pump is running and then switch the pump off the water level will rise and the pond will begin to drain through the overflow.
You could put a valve on the overflow, you just need to remember to turn it on and off when needed.

Originally Posted by Martin59

The only problem I can see with putting the overflow on that part of the system is that there will be a difference in the height of the water when the system is running and the system is static, which means if you set the overflow level when the return pump is running and then switch the pump off the water level will rise and the pond will begin to drain through the overflow.
You could put a valve on the overflow, you just need to remember to turn it on and off when needed.

I see what you mean whereas the water level will rise everywhere so won't matter where the overflow is. I will be tricking in any way so not sure if I kind losing a touch of water.

I tried responding a few times earlier but I had trouble logging in and then my long reply got lost.

I use a vertical 110mm pipe capped with an inspection TEE with a screw cap lid for a rodding point, trapped air bubble release and adjustable overflow weir. I put this on my gravity purge line for proximity to waste drain. Originally made slide valves but these work as overflow too.

So input to overflow is through bottom drain.

Knife Valve 00.jpg

Knife Valve 02.jpg

Knife Valve 03a.jpg

Originally Posted by noo

I tried responding a few times earlier but I had trouble logging in and then my long reply got lost.

I use a vertical 110mm pipe capped with an inspection TEE with a screw cap lid for a rodding point, trapped air bubble release and adjustable overflow weir. I put this on my gravity purge line for proximity to waste drain. Originally made slide valves but these work as overflow too.

So input to overflow is through bottom drain.

Knife Valve 00.jpg

Knife Valve 02.jpg

Knife Valve 03a.jpg

So I'm assuming this tee with the internal adjustable collar is at the top of a rodding point before filters and at pond water level?

Yes, that's correct.

Just unscrew cap to raise or drop the internal sleeve to adjust pond water level.

The purge tap is at the base of the vertical pipe about 1.6 m below water level. On the same pipe but not related to overflow function.

I've got another valve at 75% depth should I wish to change 25% water safely and quickly without having to wait and watch the drainage. (Again not related to overflow function)

Originally Posted by noo

Yes, that's correct.

Just unscrew cap to raise or drop the internal sleeve to adjust pond water level.

The purge tap is at the base of the vertical pipe about 1.6 m below water level. On the same pipe but not related to overflow function.

I've got another valve at 75% depth should I wish to change 25% water safely and quickly without having to wait and watch the drainage. (Again not related to overflow function)

Sounds efficient!

I've got a second overflow set 40mm higher on a different bottom drain for redundancy but I've got a large water volume.

If you decide to implement this on your single bottom drain, I would add a horizontal slit about 5mm wide and 30mm from the top edge of the internal sleeve. So water will drain out the slit (as a prefilter) and should that slit ever clog up or get overwhelmed - say 5 people jump into the pond - the open top 30mm higher will act as emergency overflow.