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Thread: New build

  1. #1

    New build

    I have started to build a new pond
    All dug out
    Drains set and pad poured
    From top of pad to ground level is some 4ft
    Blocks laid flat and coming out of ground a few more feet
    My problem is
    I have got to ground level and now the bottom course seem to be leaking in (water table ?)
    Will it stop or is there something I can do ?
    Obviously the weather is a bit damp atm but was trying to get all set up an running by spring to appreciate a season
    Look forward to your advice and replies



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy George View Post
    I have started to build a new pond
    All dug out
    Drains set and pad poured
    From top of pad to ground level is some 4ft
    Blocks laid flat and coming out of ground a few more feet
    My problem is
    I have got to ground level and now the bottom course seem to be leaking in (water table ?)
    Will it stop or is there something I can do ?
    Obviously the weather is a bit damp atm but was trying to get all set up an running by spring to appreciate a season
    Look forward to your advice and replies
    Sum whole close by at the lowest point and down couple foot deeper with a dirty water pump to drop in to empty .

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    Freddyboy the legend

    "we are water keepers first"

    Johnathan

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Alburglar's Avatar
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    Yeah,. exactly that
    You dig a little hole next to the pond, that is deeper than the pond. Stick a sump pump in that hole so it pumps out what's in the ground keeping the ground water level lower than your pond floor.
    2660 Gallons. 4" Bottom Drain and Skimmer. Draco Solum 16 Drum. Anoxic Filtration. Air lift returns.

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  6. #4
    I understand this idea but the hole would need to be 6 ft deep. And the length of my pond is 10meters

  7. #5
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy George View Post
    I understand this idea but the hole would need to be 6 ft deep. And the length of my pond is 10meters
    Length dosent matter mate (thank god lol )

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    Freddyboy the legend

    "we are water keepers first"

    Johnathan

  8. #6
    Senior Member Rank = Jussai hippo's Avatar
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    I had the same issue with my build . Getting water ingress around the base of the walls and around the bottom drain .

    In hindsight , I should have used a Damp Proof Membrane under the concrete base , which would stop the ingress .

    In my case , I was lucky that I managed to turn this into a positive ! My initial plan was to use an epoxy paint on the pond , but being unable to stop the ingress , this was a non-starter . My only option really was to call in the professionals . I used an experienced fibre glasser - who was able to work around the issue . Basically , they dried out the affected area with a propane torch and glassed it . Then got the pond filled ASAP to stop the water coming in and causing a delamination . Ten years on , everything`s fine and I realise its the best decision I made on my build !
    Colin

    2500 Gallon Fibreglass Pond
    Draco Solum 16 , 400l Bio Chamber

  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by hippo View Post
    I had the same issue with my build . Getting water ingress around the base of the walls and around the bottom drain .

    In hindsight , I should have used a Damp Proof Membrane under the concrete base , which would stop the ingress .

    In my case , I was lucky that I managed to turn this into a positive ! My initial plan was to use an epoxy paint on the pond , but being unable to stop the ingress , this was a non-starter . My only option really was to call in the professionals . I used an experienced fibre glasser - who was able to work around the issue . Basically , they dried out the affected area with a propane torch and glassed it . Then got the pond filled ASAP to stop the water coming in and causing a delamination . Ten years on , everything`s fine and I realise its the best decision I made on my build !
    Hi Mate thankyou
    Sounds like the option. Did you render befor having it glassed ?

  10. #8
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Be careful if you can't get the wieght of the water in fast enough the ingress could de lam the fibre glass being very costly

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    Freddyboy the legend

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  12. #9
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Dose anyone know if @kenalexander@blueyonder.c is still on here he could be best to inform what's best way

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    Freddyboy the legend

    "we are water keepers first"

    Johnathan

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  14. #10
    Senior Member Rank = Jussai hippo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy George View Post
    Hi Mate thankyou
    Sounds like the option. Did you render befor having it glassed ?
    Yes it was rendered . I think they had to use a waterproofing agent in the mortar . Might be worth speaking to a fibreglasser before you go any further ! Where abouts are you ?
    Colin

    2500 Gallon Fibreglass Pond
    Draco Solum 16 , 400l Bio Chamber

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  16. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Jussai hippo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajm View Post
    Dose anyone know if @kenalexander@blueyonder.c is still on here he could be best to inform what's best way

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    Yes . He was on early this morning . Would be a good call !
    Colin

    2500 Gallon Fibreglass Pond
    Draco Solum 16 , 400l Bio Chamber

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  18. #12
    I would dig down half way along and right next to the longest wall. The ground will be slightly looser here - not necessarily easier to dig, but water will flow through to the sump more easily through disturbed ground and should make it as effective as possible.
    One good sign is that you didn't have water coming in during the digging and pad laying, which suggests that the rate of ingress is slow and so can be managed.
    10m long is more than many garden swimming pools and given the likely depth you're aiming at you're going to have a pond in excess of 60-70,000 litres, which is more than the swimming pool (for humans not fish) I built because Koi ponds don't usually have a shallow end.
    My DIY ponds from 1988 until present day.
    All can be found here:
    https://www.ukzero.com/pond.htm

  19. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Ukzero View Post
    I would dig down half way along and right next to the longest wall. The ground will be slightly looser here - not necessarily easier to dig, but water will flow through to the sump more easily through disturbed ground and should make it as effective as possible.
    One good sign is that you didn't have water coming in during the digging and pad laying, which suggests that the rate of ingress is slow and so can be managed.
    10m long is more than many garden swimming pools and given the likely depth you're aiming at you're going to have a pond in excess of 60-70,000 litres, which is more than the swimming pool (for humans not fish) I built because Koi ponds don't usually have a shallow end.
    We had a good look why we finished the last 5 courses today.
    The main ingress is the far side. Under a patio
    A hole on this side I feel won’t help
    We did a morta skim with rapid cement
    It seemed to work then after half an hour it sorta popped like a spot and ouzed with clear water (patio side)

    The pond is L shaped with plenty of depth

  20. #14
    might be a bit late in replying but you need to relieve the water pressure that has built up at back of wall.This can be done by introducing a temporary sump at rear of wall as suggested.Alternatively open up joint at leak point and build in relief pipe direct to bottom drain.the render can have a waterproof additive or fibreglasser can deal with this point.hopefully may have dried up by then.
    Frank

 

 

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