Thread: New pond started

Having moved home it’s time to start building a new pond. This will be the biggest I’ve had - aiming for circa 5k gallons. It’s been delayed somewhat as we had to get consent to remove a tree where the pond will be located….which is proving to be a significant challenge. A 2.5ft diameter conifer approximately 45 years old with big roots as you’d expect!

It’s the biggest tree I’ve felled myself and I took it very carefully. It was a very straight tree with no lean at all so I carefully removed as much of the branches on three quarters of it so that it had more weight on the side of direction I wanted it to fall (with a bit of help from my wife holding a steadying rope). Today has been spent digging out and cutting the upper roots - 8 done so far and the biggest was 12” diameter. I think I’m stuck at a point that I can’t progress until I have the excavator on site. I’m hoping a 3T will be man enough to get it out - I left so much trunk behind in order to use it for leverage. I have a suspicion it will be a bit of a beast.

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I thought I had problems with the roots I found when digging my current pond but they are nothing compared to what you have to deal with

Good luck with your build

Managed to make some good progress today. Filter bay slab cast and retaining walls now constructed. Pond excavated but needs trimming by hand to hone the shape. Also need to hand dig the bottom drain and pipework runs.

I’m already regretting not putting in a ring beam. I’ve always used one on every pond I’ve done but decided as I’m planning on a natural pond that it would be better without one. This was not the right decision!

I always forget just how much soil comes out…

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I start by making sure the screws are all fully tapped in place. Then I use a small file to mark the 3 and 6 o’clock positions. These then get removed and put away safely. I’ve always polythene sheeted and taped over the face of the drain. I also tape over the back of the screw holes to stop anything getting in. I cut the pipes and get everything in place, pencil marking the alignment of joints. Then it’s a clean up and solvent weld. I then use a sharp sand mortar under the drain and around it making sure it’s level in all directions. The mortar sits just below the lip to allow for membrane to sit up to it. I then surround the pipe in sand to allow a little movement and also keep anything sharp away (ie if I’ve missed any stones). I usually put something to hold it in place.

The following day I level the sand around the base whilst doing a final check for sharp bits. Then I soak the membrane so it holds in place and position with overlaps (I also spray it as so go to try and keep wet, but being man made it drains quickly - especially in hot weather). I do the walls first working with the way I’m planning to have the flow to create as smooth a flow as possible. Then I do the bottom starting with first central to the bottom drain then overlap working out - this reduces ridges catching debris in the same way a roof felt/membrane is laid. The reason I do the bottom last is that if I disturb anything from the walls then I know that the bottom membrane will go over it if I miss it.

Then It’s liner time but that’s another thing altogether…