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Thread: New House, New Pond.
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20-11-2020, 01:53 PM #21
Okay, so the big pond dig is happening next friday! Concrete slab with blocks laid flat and a spindrifter bottom drain to be installed (Suppled by Gaz, cheers!)
So slab will also have mesh in it. Is there any other recommendations that I should be talking to the builder about? We spoke about a 150mm slab, and C35 cocnrete.
Exciting times!
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20-11-2020, 02:07 PM #22
If the builder can put a slope to the bottom drain that would be good.
Also weakest point of the build will be the join between the base and the bricks. Make sure that is completed well. I used hollow bricks and rebar to tie my base into the walls.
Sent from my SM-A516B using TapatalkLast edited by Graeme; 20-11-2020 at 02:49 PM.
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RS2OOO Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-11-2020, 02:30 PM #23
Very exciting times indeed
I would be sure to have a decently compacted sub-base (type-1 granite or crushed concrete Etc) and a damp proof membrane of some description on top of that before the mesh goes on, to ensure the base does dot soak out the water/goodness out of the concrete too quick... other than that, good luck and look forward to the progress photos
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-11-2020, 05:59 PM #24Hobby and business gone but when you’re hooked you’re hooked.
Always happy to help!!
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21-11-2020, 06:28 AM #25
Good luck with the build mate. And lots of photos.
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Robo76 Thanked / Liked this Post
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23-11-2020, 08:41 AM #26
Morning! So I am trying to plan my returns as the block work will be started next Monday. So I either try and decide now, or core drill once the block work is finished.
Pond will be 1.5m.
I am thinking 2 returns on each side. 1 low (45cm and 1 mid 90cm)
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23-11-2020, 09:45 AM #27
Any reason why you have gone with a single drain?
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23-11-2020, 09:54 AM #28
1 drain because, those are the external dimensions. So internally it will be 4m x 1.9 ish as will be slightly less if i insulate
My drum only has 2 inputs. (1 for skimmer and 1 for BD).
Pond volume will only be around 11000Litres.
Any issues with 1 drain?
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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24-11-2020, 02:48 PM #29
So the spindrifter bottom drain arrived yesterday. The flexible hose that needs to go between the stem and air disk, any recommendations? Seems a bizarre way of doing it. Especially with something thats not very accessible.
The build quality of it compared to the Ł20 kockney koi one i installed in the temp pool looks great. And I couldn't believe the weight!
3 days till the dig and pour!
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24-11-2020, 07:09 PM #30
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25-11-2020, 07:06 AM #31
I used these for the pipe. One in the bottom drain and one in the filter house.
Then as said used jubilee clips
https://absolute-koi.com/prod1734.html
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25-11-2020, 08:45 AM #32
New House, New Pond.
Most ponds over 3.6 meter runs have would have more than 1 that was all. How I have understood it from previous threads the pull on a 4” bottom drain is 1.8m
At 4.5 meters this would have left c.45cm each end.
Not so bad at 4m and it’s obviously your choice.
Personally I would have opted for 2 at either side of the window. Similar to what DBS has just done on his build.
And so it begins - Going down and building up
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You could always join the bottom drain pipes to 1 but have a valve on each to control the flows?
No one else is suggesting it so maybe just ignore me.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Mikeh83; 25-11-2020 at 08:47 AM.
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25-11-2020, 10:02 AM #33
more is always better . i only have 1 in my 4 meter by 4 meter round pond. for me its also about how you circulate your water to get the crap to the bottom drain.
but as mike suggests if you can fit two drains. its got to be better.
if i had gone square pond i would have fitted 2 drains. at that size.
fred
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dbs Thanked / Liked this Post
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25-11-2020, 10:24 AM #34
I too would opt for two bottom drains.
One of those things which is relatively easy to execute now, but almost impossible to retrofit if needed.
For example.
You would imagine that in my pond structure shown below the sloping floor would ensure absolutely everything finds its way to the single bottom drain.
Unfortunately, the irregular pond shape (necessary to get planning approved by a higher power) means that I sometimes get dead spots with associated patches of crap.
The fish soon disturb it when they are active and send it on its way, but it just goes to show the importance of bottom drain catchment.
So yes. In a convention flat bottomed tank shaped pond I would always rather have one bottom drain too many rather than one too few.
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dbs Thanked / Liked this Post
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25-11-2020, 01:17 PM #35
After reviewing all your comments, I think I will stick with 1 drain. There are quite alot of cost implications with two. It would also start me looking at upgrding my drum so i can have 3 inputs. As Freddy said i think i will focus on my returns. I plan on running my skimmer as a 4" gravity feed to the drumm, as that worked very well on my last pond.
I am just getting the pipes ready to glue, they are so tight! Before i slap a load of glue all over the pipe any tips?
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25-11-2020, 01:28 PM #36
There are some good Youtube videos about solvent welding larger diameter pipes. It's one of those things you need to get right first time.
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25-11-2020, 01:45 PM #37
Yes, here is my tip list (not necessarily in the right order):
- Have 2 pots of solvent weld with applicators and 2 people. Each of you apply it to one part of the joint for speed.
- Work in a clean area without dirt and dust but have something to hand to put sticky things down on and to catch drips while applying. You can be faster if you’re not worried about spilling a bit
- Make sure you have the proper pipe cleaner and use this just before, as it softens the surface of the pipe prior to the solvent itself
- Use a sharpie or very small score mark to mark how far in the pipe needs to go to be fully home beforehand.
- 4 inch pipe is very hard to do a dry fit on, but if you wet it +/- washing up liquid it will go together easier for your test run (dry after obv). It will actually go in easier when the solvent weld is on it for lubrication, but only for literally a second or 2 before it starts to set.
- Use plenty of solvent weld. You can always wipe off the bit that gunges out the sides of the joint immediately after with a cloth. Pressure pipe is thick so you don’t have to worry about the solvent cement weakening the pipe walls like you would with waste pipe. The most common reason for joint failure seems to be not putting enough on.
- Use a fine sand paper to make sure the end is completely smooth and free of swarf first.
- If you are putting a second fitting on something where it needs to align perfectly with one on the other end (such as the 90 on the other end of the pipe with bottom drain on) I would recommend that you do NOT twist the pieces together because if it sets before you’ve quite finished you will have an incredibly wonky vertical pipe.
- Set up some way of checking the pipe is square beforehand such as a flat floor and spirit level for your vertical pipe. You will have literally seconds to work, you cannot faff while putting it together.
- Dont have anyone sensitive to foul language within earshot
2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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25-11-2020, 02:00 PM #38
What he said - also, to put alignment marks on pipe and fitting during trial assembly of angle critical joints (as well as "depth of insertion mark").
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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25-11-2020, 02:12 PM #39
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25-11-2020, 04:05 PM #40
Thanks for the tips feline. Gave the pipes abit of a rub down first and then got my old man to give us a hand. Slapped loads of weld on and my dad used his feet while I sat on the pipe and kept everything aligned.
Onto water testing.
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Every day feeding container?
Good shout, I'll have a look at Takazumi :)