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  1. #1

    Question New Pond Design and what Filters to use.

    Hi all, Complete Newbie here, ive been pondering on a pond for years, im a keen carp angler and a child my grandfather had an ornamental pond i loved, im not going to be showing koi and id like a mixture of fish, i like the more formal design with some running water and colour, im at that point in life when time will allow me to build one and look after it, ive been researching for quite some time literally over the years and im completely undecided based on the info available what filters to use and how to be designed into the installation. No doubt its an age old question and technology changes, ive also been told by some people that the type of filters im thinking about are not needed unless im growing on and showing top end fish, im not sure i agree with that view.

    I really liked the idea of the Nexus Easy i thought its a pretty good solution to both mechanical and bio filtration, however reviews seem to be waning on exactly how good it is nowadays compared to other types, ive also been looking into drum filters and there are some great ones out with good reviews and at a cost, cost isn't an issue as i don't want to make a mistake and do it right once, im not throwing money at the problem just looking at it sensibly and i dont want to rebuild or redesign it again or is that hopeful.

    Then theirs the issue of a mechanical pre-filter, this can be pretty basic in design any of the Weir systems seem to be good solution, im not going to suffer with leaves so it will only be water borne debris than larger floating matter, do i really need it ? or is a more a case of having it is better than not having it, almost a fall back if its designed in and should this service the main bottom drain or just the skimmer drain, is there any point that not all the water goes through it and only a percentage ?

    We would like a bog/veg filter that is separate to the main pond, as a feature, this would feed into the pond possibly by a blade or spout, however and tell me if im not looking at it logically is there any point having only a percentage of the water going through the veg filter after the main filter ? im looking at it like a fuel filter everything goes through the filter not only a percentage, like the above pre filter percentage.

    Id like to fit a bottom drain, i think the standard now, however i was told to fit separate air and not combined as the effects of the water lifting and then being sucked down the bottom drain doesn't work and therefore have the air at the opposite end to the bottom drain and likewise to that of the skimmer location.

    I hope that makes sense and not too drawn out reading it, its kind of where i am before I start drawing it, its a bit like if you could redesign what you've built how would you do it now you have got the experience and mistakes that others have made over the years.

    Trust you are all well



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  3. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Sansai richythepom's Avatar
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    Hello mate, welcome to the forum. I don't have the answers you need re the bog filter etc. My two-cents worth - I'd 100% support the bottom drain - potentially more than one, depending on the overall volume and shape etc. If you have more than one BD, I understand that the generally accepted idea is for each BD to run to separate filters and back to the pond potentially via separate returns. I have just installed a 2nd hand Nexus 210 myself - replacing an old multi-bay setup that had seen better days since it was new 15 or so years ago. I like the ease of cleaning etc. that the Nexus provides, but I understand the drum option is superior if you have the cash. I wish I'd installed a skimmer, but then I suffer from tree overhang into my garden and so the leaves/seedpods etc. are perhaps more of a pain for me than they might be for you. Of course, you'll also need to consider Water pump(s), UV Clarifier unit(s), Air Pump(s), plus pipework, solvent weld vs rubber boots and slide valves vs ball valves, filter bay setup and electrical switch boxes etc.. - I'm sure everyone has a view...! Good luck and keep us posted

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  5. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion RoyLittle0's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome to the forum

    If your after an easy to maintain system then you wonít go far wrong with a drum filter, if you go for one then you wonít need to pre filter, most will accept 2 bottom drain connections, as for air at the bottom drain then thatís the normal way to do it, you can get aerated bottom drains made for the purpose, the idea is the air moves the water up from the tot of the drain and this forces the water to make like a mushroom and it will go back down away from the drain and then along the base of the pond to the drain, if that makes sense

    The thing to consider is water height between the pond and the filter, they need to be at the same height

    Variable pumps are better than fixed flow and solvent weld pressure pipe is better than domestic pipe


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
    2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick
    2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
    Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
    Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
    Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
    2 x 18,000 lh pumps
    Idealseal MS290

    My Pond Build

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  7. #4
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai Gazkoi's Avatar
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    Hi Horse1Uk,

    Welcome to the Forum, where you will quickly find lots of friendly, helpful and knowledgeable members.

    I agree with what has been said so far. Budget permitting:

    Bottom Drain (a must)
    Drum - nobody regrets (to my knowledge) ever fitting one
    skimmer - amazing how much these collect even without leaf issues.
    Variable pumps - superb items giving you ease of control
    Taking advice before committing / spending - priceless

    Cheers

    Gaz
    4,100 gallon pond, infinity window, duratec heater, aerated BD, 3 bakki showers full of BHM, amalgam UV, 3 Blue Ecoís, construction skimmer, trickle in/out, Oase Profi Drum and some very spoilt koi.

    3 separate grow on vats, one 1,600 gallon QT and a customer first business

    www.aurorakoi.co.uk

    www.facebook.com/aurorakoiuk

  8. #5
    Evening All, after being advised to read up and spending some time on the Anoxic filter system thread and Sanke great web page ive come up with the attached draft design, I wanted to have a veg filter or planted area of some sort but didn't really want this in the main pond, this filter can give me the best of both worlds and I like the system, im still concerned about going all feet first into that being the only Bio Element but do feel I can scale back on the set up from the Combi Bio TC 30 and go for the Drum and Separate Bio with the Anoxic running alongside, if you have some time and can offer any advice on the design id appreciate your feedback, my main areas of concern are the mid water returns will 4 in the main pond plus 2 in the Anoxic work as i have 2no 110mm BD's and too many returns ? do i need 4 ? and what pump(s) as ive done no research on these only looked at the cost Gulp

    Specification.
    Reinforced Concrete Raft Foundation, thickening up around the perimeter, Concrete Block Super Structure, Screeded to Falls, Insulated and GRP Finish
    2no. 110mm Aerated Bottom Drains
    4no. Pond Returns Mid Water From Drum/Bio, i would appreciate your thoughts on placement and direction ?
    Skimmer with Overflow
    1no. 1m3 Anoxic Filter with 20 Baskets and planting over.
    2no Anoxic Returns with a Dispersal T from Drum/Bio
    Blade/Feature from Anoxic to Main Pond (Summer Use)
    Basic Overflow from Anoxic to Main Pond (Winter Use) Discharging Below Surface in main. Is this Required ? running water and winter.
    Externally Clad with Steel (Semi Industrial Look)
    Curved Infinity Window set in a stainless frame in the face rather than behind the wall.
    Pergola Over
    17.5m3 volume minus the curve area ( I have little idea on how to work that out) however id rather be over than under on volumes.
    Profi Drum with Bio.
    EA 110v UV
    Pump TBC
    Auto Top Up Valve/Filter.
    PondDesignJpeg.jpg

    Id appreciate honest feedback, im really trying to get it as close to right once.

    Jon

  9. #6
    Is it your thinking to stack the filter baskets for creating the anoxic filtration and then put on top baskets containing water plants. Also have you considered an overflow pipe to allow for excess water when heavy rains fall.

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  11. #7
    Youíve put a lot of thought into it New Pond Design and what Filters to use.
    My quick thoughts.
    Relocate the bottom drains a bit, they have a realistic pulling radius of about 2m, the furthest part of your curve will not get much suck I donít think.
    Angle returns to give you flow in the same direction as opposed to flowing against each other.
    Lose the 110w UV and use an amalgam in the drum, more expensive to buy initially but you wonít lose any flow and they last miles longer.
    A curved window is gonna cost serous bucks but will look amazing.
    Allow for a few more baskets, just in case if you have another foot of space.
    Will have another look later


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  13. #8
    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion RoyLittle0's Avatar
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    As BCC says above,

    If I was building my pond again I would seriously consider putting 100mm of insulation under the floor slab and then 25mm on the internal walls before fiberglassing and behind the sheeting on the outside, thicker the better, also think about winter, are you going to cover your pond, when I built my pond I wasn't going to cover it, but after a few winters I realise I need to put covers on it to keep the water at a higher temperature

    Make sure when you fill it you get a water meter so you know how much water you are putting in, makes life easier for treatments when you know the exact volume of water you have.

    In your filter room you will need water, drainage and electricity (and WiFi if you plan any monitoring)
    4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
    2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick
    2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
    Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
    Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
    Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
    2 x 18,000 lh pumps
    Idealseal MS290

    My Pond Build

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  15. #9
    I think maybe your jets too are not right to get the best benefit of your skimmer. I would suggest re-directing the 2 jets up by the anoxic filter to create a constant rotating of water. otherwise a second skimmer might be needed.

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  17. #10
    Thanks for the input guys, its appreciated.

    The coyman, I do have an overflow in the skimmer, these looked sensible to me, the Anoxic should only discharge into the main pond, Do i need a winter route for the water to enter the main pond rather than over the blade ? i can make the Anoxic filter deeper, i worked on 900 as its was decent height to bed over to pull them out and maintain them, i can tweak it for width etc.

    Jets im really wondering the best place for them as its a different shape, my idea was to break the two areas down so the water is circulating around in both segments, its something im struggling on and something i find quite important, moving water over the window will definitely help on keeping the glass clean.

    Bigcarpchaser, cheers for the heads up on the UV ive not looked too mcuh into these and assumed they were the all singing and dancing, ill look into the Amalgam, ill adjust the bottom drains to get the best possible draw for sure thats not an issue, i never realized it was a 2 meter draw, cheers. i think the curved window would set it off and be worth the money especially if im going to save several thousands on the filter !! im in the trade and yes they are pricey but nothing like the prices ive seen on here or on the web.

    Roylittle0, I wasn't big on the idea of covering it at first but im coming round to the idea, ill need to work in a decent system in my design to ft them in the winter months, perfect idea on the water meter and a simple, thank you, i was definately going to insulate the walls internally, i hadn't thought about the floor simply as the ground temperature changes are minor and heat rises i can look into that and speak to an structual engineer friend to see what the loading will be and what can be used, im trying to keep my wall thickness as little as possible so it didn't look to chunky, be good to work out the heat loss on the walls, floor and cover shouldnt be too hard to do, i can get drains and wires in no problem ive gravity to drains which makes things easier.

    Does anyone have any ideas on these grey areas, with the wealth of experience here it always pays to ask.

    1. pumps or what they find good, ive seen some prices and i was shocked at the costs, i may well look into industrial pumps with remote speed controllers and energy use.

    2. using 110mm underground foul drain fittings and pipe rather than the grey glue together stuff thats sold, being in the trade I get very good rates on Osma underground and soil and although i can get the glue together fittings the Osma stuff is brilliant, the bottom drains run on gravity and therefore no great pressure in terms of pressure, its absolute nonsense about the rubbers deteriorating unless they have had some lube used on them which has caused them to fail, ive taken out drains over 30 years old and the fittings and rubbers are as tight as they were when they was installed id say more chance of glued fittings failing when they aren't
    cleaned with solvent before being stuck together.

    thanks for the advice and time to reply everyone, its appreciated.

 

 

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