Results 61 to 80 of 88
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20-05-2020, 08:25 AM #61
I'm going to get it ready mixed mate.
I'll be doing it all my self so don't fancy mixing and pouring and floating 2 cubic meters.
You can get a wheel barrow service from the concrete company. Where they will bring a couple of blokes and wheel barrow it in for you so all you have to do is concentrate on the leveling and floating.
Not sure how much extra it cost but I'm going to look into it next week
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-05-2020, 08:29 AM #624600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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colinley1979, freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-05-2020, 09:31 AM #63
I won't even attept it on my own. I'll get the barrow service if the price is right
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20-05-2020, 09:43 AM #64
I'm lucky as have a small team who can mix it up . Its a long barrow from the front of our house to the pond but could look at having it pumped.
If it was 4 cubic meters I'd have it pumped but with two it might be easier with a couple of on site mixers and lads !
Fortunately I have some one else doing the laying and levelling.
Do you try and make the slope to the bottom drain on the first lay or do that after ?
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20-05-2020, 09:54 AM #65
I was planning on just doing the floor level. So no slope.
I've read mixed things about having a sloping floor.
I'm also going to have an aerated bottom drain which apparently helps with moving any crap to the bottom drain that is settled on the floor
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-05-2020, 11:02 AM #66
Personally I wouldn’t bother with a sloping floor, it’s much easier to do it flat and I don’t see how the slop really helps to be honest, slopes work on drives and paths but actually in water I’m not convinced
Also I’m not sure that the aerated bottom drain will clear the bottom of the pond once it’s settled, yes it will help to stop it from settling and keeping the fines suspended in the water so have more chance of going down the bottom drain, but there lies another problem, the aerated water keeps the fines suspended
All I do is brush the pond floor once a week with a swimming pool brush
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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20-05-2020, 02:27 PM #67
I am planning a rebuild of my old garden pond that got built in the stone age when there was no tinternet nor Youtube so to say that if I could do anything wrong then I did and did it well. This time around I am researching a lot and glad to read people telling of any errors they had as it's all learning. That said I am in favor of a sloped bottom as well as a gently vortex created in the pond to keep the water circulating.
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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26-05-2020, 09:05 PM #68
Did some more digging today. And omg it was hard graft. I thought last time was hard. But because I had left it a couple of weeks since I last did any digging and with all this warm sunny weather we have had. The clay had dried out and was rock hard. Still got a bit more to do tomorrow. And tunnel under the shed floor for the bottom drain pipework. I dampened the clay that is left to dig tomorrow. To try and soften it a little
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27-05-2020, 08:55 PM #69
Finally got all the digging done and dug under the shed where the 4" pipe will come up.
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27-05-2020, 08:57 PM #70
And put the teram down with some mot in each corner. I'll be putting a good 2" layer of mot all over it. And got a whacker plate coming on Friday
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28-05-2020, 04:59 PM #71
MOT all in and levelled off with staff and laser level. Just waiting on the whacker plate. Hats coming tomorrow
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30-05-2020, 05:32 AM #72
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30-05-2020, 05:42 AM #73
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30-05-2020, 07:05 AM #74
Personally I wouldn't use blocks to hold up the mesh, use an engineering brick or better still wire top hats, blocks are only 7nm strength and your concrete will be a minimum of 25nm to 35nm so the blocks will cause a weak point in the slab, probably wont make a difference but just an observation, I used to work in heavy construction and I have seen my fare share of cracked slabs
4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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30-05-2020, 07:54 AM #75
To be honest the teram and mot type 1 were not really needed on my pond. I've just gone belt and braces.
It all depends on what type of soil you are pouring your concrete on. If you are still at soil or sand when your at the depth for your concrete. Then yes I would put a layer a of teram down and about 4" of well compacted mot type 1.
If your pouring your concrete on undisturbed clay then it's not really needed. But I already had the teram and some mot. So I thought for an extra £50 for another tone bag. I might as well do it
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30-05-2020, 08:04 AM #76
Make sure you put a slab of concrete under the bottom drain, or this will be your weakest point in the slab, many people make the mistake of putting the bottom drain directly onto the soil or hardcore, but if you think the bottom of the bottom drain is still exposed to the full weight of the water and its only plastic welded on, you will have 6" of concrete slab holding the weight of the water and then 6mm of plastic under the bottom drain
4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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colinley1979, Scottybee Thanked / Liked this Post
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30-05-2020, 08:18 AM #774600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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colinley1979, Graeme Thanked / Liked this Post
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30-05-2020, 08:25 AM #78
I will be digging an area of mot back out for this.
What depth of concrete is needed under the bottom drain.
I've got about 3" of mot. If I dig that out will it be enough or do I need to cut the teram and dig a bit more clay out ??
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RoyLittle0 Thanked / Liked this Post
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30-05-2020, 08:30 AM #79
In theory it needs to be the same thickness as the main slab but in practice you will get away with 4", I wouldn't go much thinner, but as I have said I've seen many ponds that rest the bottom drain on clay without any problems (so far), but there is always the chance, anything is better then nothing, you just need to support the plastic bottom
4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
2 x 18,000 lh pumps
Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
Idealseal MS290
My Pond Build
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colinley1979 Thanked / Liked this Post
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30-05-2020, 08:34 AM #80
A couple of photos of the compacted mot type 1
Last edited by colinley1979; 30-05-2020 at 08:39 AM.
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RoyLittle0 Thanked / Liked this Post
Running heater at low temp?
Covering the pond with polycarb should be enough to stop water temps dipping below 6C for the most...