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  1. #21
    I suppose I could use 12mm and be fine. The ground is a natural insulator anyway I guess.

    What do you do to the insulation seams?

    And do the concrete blocks need to be laid flat? My garden is quite small so I’m limited on space so laying flat takes a bit of space from the pond

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  3. #22
    Also I am not sure how I would put insulation on the seams where the walls wouldn’t be completely straight. Since it’s a P shape. One end is wider than the other.

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  5. #23
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve9814 View Post
    Also I am not sure how I would put insulation on the seams where the walls wouldn’t be completely straight. Since it’s a P shape. One end is wider than the other.
    Shallow cuts to help it bend

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  7. #24
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Sim's Avatar
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    Yes that would work and should stay there with grip stick something similar

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  9. #25
    Your talking about kingspan right? I’ve never been able to bend any kingspan I’ve used in the past?

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  11. #26
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Sim's Avatar
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    I would think 12mm would give on a bend and if you scored the back like Johnathan it would work.

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  13. #27
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion samp09's Avatar
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    I used insulation tape to cover the joins on mine.Like Jonathan said, you could make shallow cuts for the bends. I would use Q board washers tho instead of grip stick. I drilled though the celotex and into the wall then put a rawl plug on and then the washer on the screw to pull the board tight to the wall.
    https://www.diy.com/departments/q-bo...1919340_BQ.prd

    I used insulation tape to cover the washers and make it smoother after screwing them in. It is insulation like kingpan but its celotex I used. Like you say the ground insulates it, the insulation is good for getting a better finish but its also handy to have there if you ever change your mind about heating etc. If you use the website for the celotex I put earlier in this thread its £7 a sheet which is what, 2.4m x 1.2m so with your pond wouldn't cost much.

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  15. #28
    Right I want to do this properly. Even if it means I have to dig another skip load of soil out. I won’t be able to do it until after all this pandemic mess but want it done properly so I will plan now and aim to do it all at the end of summer.

    If I take some pics of the mess I am working with could you guys help me out with some design ideas?

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  17. #29
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    If I take some pics of the mess I am working with could you guys help me out with some design ideas?

    This lot to design you will end up with a lake lol Haha
    Fiberglassing pondFiberglassing pondFiberglassing pond

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  19. #30
    Unless they have the schematics for a tardis that ain’t gonna happen lol

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  21. #31
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Sim's Avatar
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    if I could redo my pond I would do it differently, had hoped to have moved and just started again.
    i had a revamp, but still not finished and new things and ways come along all the time, things change so try and future proof a little.

    there will be loads of people on here at the moment To help, so perfect time.

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  23. #32
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Sim's Avatar
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    Or at least a pond twice the size Freddy

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  25. #33
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sim View Post
    Or at least a pond twice the size Freddy
    That's exactly what I meant mucker

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  27. #34
    Right so I know this is a terrible pond. I hate it. I built it 3 years ago without much research at all as I just knew I wanted a pond and I must have made hundreds of mistake - cheapest crappest liner material going-

    Waterfall design a deep bog filter
    No bottom drain and bad slopes

    This is what I’ve got

    upload photos

    I want to build a shed at the side where I have a raised plant bed currently I’m thinking of building the shed over a hole in the ground where I put my barrel filters. That way they are concealed.

    I am on a budget I can’t afford to spend thousands but I am realistic. So let you ideas flow

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  29. #35
    Baring in mind I have no means of access to my garden other than through my house which has 5 steps, 4 corners and a drop down into my garden from the back door.

    I had to manually dig out the pond entirely by myself and barrow it through my house and filled 8 yards of skip already. It’s 1.2m deep currently

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  31. #36
    Oh I also want to raise it slightly since I have a kid now who since this pandemic is going on is spending more time in my garden and he’s 2 years old. I’ve come to realise it’s not safe at all

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  33. #37
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion samp09's Avatar
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    Ok, and you mainly want to keep trout in the pond?do they have any specific requirements?I would make it as big as you can and I would have a concrete base with a bottom drain as it really is a bombproof set up.depending on depth required etc would probably make a difference to how cheaply you could build it. If its 1.2m deep already then you could have 20cm of concrete at the bottom and then raise it above ground to the depth you need. Is there any fence panels you could lift for ease of access?

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  35. #38
    Garden has 3 sides that are fenced. All 3 sides are neighbouring gardens with no access. Unfortunately not an option to remove a fence.

    The shape is what I think may be an issue for easily fiberglassing. Maybe I should increase the width of the smaller side and make it rectangular?

    It would be impossible for me to fiberglass the inside of that waterfall as it’s so small I couldn’t get anywhere near it with a roller. So I’m thinking of knocking it all down and starting again

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  37. #39
    I’d like to keep trout but I started it as an aquaponics system I have 100 decent sized trout atm I may reduce that to about 5-10 and get some koi for aesthetics

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  39. #40
    For trout I just have a 36000 lph pump creating a flow across the pond atm so it’s like a river. And they need cooler water. That’s about it

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