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  1. #1
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    Gravity Fed Drum filter set ups

    Hi All,
    ‘Now summer is over I am back to setting up my in ground koi pond and after a lot of deliberation have bought a Proficlear Premium Compact M drum filter and was wondering if you could share some pics / images of how you have formed the ‘in ground’ area for the drum filter; whether you have constructed the area / chamber in block work with a lid on the top or used an alternative material?
    The top of the drum filter needs to be 2” below the water level of the pond so needs to be buried or in some sort of chamber below ground. Many thanks, Rusho



  2. #2
    I'm no expert but in my case it is a concrete base slab, blockwork walls and a pitched waterproof lid. Think about access for you to get in and out to work on equipment and if your water table is high how you will drain it if the pit fills with water.
    My advice would be, within reason, make the pit as big as you can.

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Not got the same drum but the principle is the same....

    Dig deep hole to place the bottom drain pipe:

    IMG_20180408_133951.jpg


    After measuring water height and drum dimensions, install a drain and drainage pipe, or in my case being 80 foot and 2 patios from nearest drain I used a large plastic bin as a sump with a sump pump installed. Then refill hole to 15cm below where you want the drum to sit. Then 5cm of hardcore and 10cm concrete base, then blockwork (leaving/making holes for electric supply and pump return pipe):

    IMG_20180421_082052.jpg


    Once built to desired height make a lid (There's a Nexus and a drum in mine but again, principle is the same):

    IMG_20180502_164210.jpg


    Make sure you leave enough room for pumps, pipework, UV etc.

    I'm not familiar with the Proficlear, but is 2" below pond water level definitely correct? In my mind that would flood.

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  6. #4
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    My thanks for your advice

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  8. #5
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    C3B44860-E779-47F2-BBD9-2EB8705DB64B.gif
    this image shows a timber box but I don’t think it would last very long as it’s going underground. A block work chamber with a lid sounds like the way to go so thank you.

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  10. #6
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    Not got the same drum but the principle is the same....

    Dig deep hole to place the bottom drain pipe:

    IMG_20180408_133951.jpg


    After measuring water height and drum dimensions, install a drain and drainage pipe, or in my case being 80 foot and 2 patios from nearest drain I used a large plastic bin as a sump with a sump pump installed. Then refill hole to 15cm below where you want the drum to sit. Then 5cm of hardcore and 10cm concrete base, then blockwork (leaving/making holes for electric supply and pump return pipe):

    IMG_20180421_082052.jpg


    Once built to desired height make a lid (There's a Nexus and a drum in mine but again, principle is the same):

    IMG_20180502_164210.jpg


    Make sure you leave enough room for pumps, pipework, UV etc.

    I'm not familiar with the Proficlear, but is 2" below pond water level definitely correct? In my mind that would flood.


    sorry, the water level is 2’’ below the top of the drum filter

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  12. #7
    Senior Member Rank = Gosai Sim's Avatar
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    That's sound more like it I have an oasis drum.
    If you haven't got it yet you may be better getting a drum and bigger bio side.

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  14. #8
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    Have bought it but haven’t had it delivered yet. It has 2 x sections but there is another section I can purchase if need be but I’ll need to make a big enough inground area to accommodate the third one if necessary to try and future proof it. Just at the point of putting drainage pipe work in and working out where things go. I’m trying to base it all on the ponddigger koi pond.

  15. #9
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Handy Kenny's Avatar
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    Rusho,

    I have a gravity fed RDF setup and use an AEM drum which I think is less tall than the Proficlear. However mine came into existence after trying different filter setups so the floor height existed. I have a concrete base as the floor with very light weight concrete blocks (absorb the sound) surrounded by more (normal) concrete blocks for the walls. Some people may think about adding heat insulation to the inside of the walls as well although your entire box would need sealing to make it really effective. Working out an exact height can be a nightmare so I decided to sit my RDF on a raised 18" wooden table built with decking wood. If I was and inch or two out I could add a couple of pieces of decking across the table to raise the height of the drum, too high and I could chop and inch or two off the legs. This also means that the drum is not actually sitting on the floor which could flood and the pressure pump which is external to my RDF box is also off the floor..

    One of the things that happens with my pond (since it is gravity fed) is that the actual pond level goes up and down by a couple of inches which is caused by the restricted flow of water as the drum mesh is getting clogged. The alternative is to have the float switch actuate the drum cycle much more often which adds cost to the running of the pond. The dynamics of water are such that to initiate the flow from the pond to the drum, the water level in the pond needs to be higher, and, the flow of water is not instantaneous. The capacity of your pump also plays a part. Having some adjustment in your RDF height would help there and would also help with future proofing if you buy a bigger/taller drum at a later date although the Profi is a big drum anyway.

    My drum empties into a sump which could of course be the likes of a blue barrel (some have used wheelie bin) as long as there is always enough water in it to send back to the pond. The bottom of the sump in a gravity system needs to be lower than the RDF. My sump contains anoxic filtration (helps complete the nitrogen cycle) in baskets and a heater coil so is a handy place to do stuff if your sump is big enough, bearing in mind that there will be some point when you will need to clean out the sump also. A float switch in your sump could help by turning off the return pump when the sump empties (and it will at some time). Milasz did a wee story on wheelie bin anoxic filtration on this forum. Your diagram shows a secondary chamber so fitting an egg crate plastic floor could work.

    One other consideration is the width/depth. Mine is 2 x 1.3 metres which gives just enough space to work around the AEM drum, I can actually stand on the floor at one end giving me access to the inlet side of the drum. This was important yesterday as I had to run a Karcher drain cleaner down to the bottom drain to clear away a blockage in the pipe caused by leaves (there are a lot of trees and bamboo around). Fortunately on the AEM I can run the drain cleaner down the pipe without actually having to disconnect anything. If on the Profi you cannot access the bottom drain pipework from inside the drum you may think about using a tee piece before the pipe enters the drum from where you can run a drain cleaner or drain rods down to clear any obstruction, the height of the part of the tee pointing up only needs to be higher than water level. This also needs some space and the Profi boxes are around 885mm each so they are not small. You will also want to plan in some valves to shut off the BD pipework.

    Sorry if this was a bit long but some of these things I found out after I had bought my RDF. My one key piece of advice would be to go as big as you can initially.

    Kenny
    Last edited by Handy Kenny; 23-11-2019 at 02:46 PM.

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  17. #10
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    Hey Kenny, Really grateful for your learned advice all of which I will take on board. I had not thought about a T part from my bottom drain for rodding but that sounds like a very useful element to incorporate. I am having a second chamber on my Profliclear but perhaps will leave room for a 3rd for expansion now. The Profliclear is largely automatic so I should be ok with my water levels and that is what attracted me to this filter over others and also the simple plug and play installation. I had previously been directed to the bead filter (like the one used in Cotswold Koi’s pictures) but that did really look difficult to plumb up for a novice like myself.
    I am still getting drainage sorted and then I’ll build my box for the drum filter and they hook everything up so am current;y absorbing tips from everyone to make sure I can get it as right as can be and your advice has been very helpful.
    Cheers again. Rusho

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  19. #11
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    Would anyone be able to share any information on how to plumb up a Profliclear Premium Compact gravity fed Drum Filter, or share any tips / recommendations? Thanks in advanceCD7817CA-1DD7-47F9-A754-67C48868BA69.jpgB090236E-1D25-4AD3-A723-498A90901AC1.jpg6527717C-5A37-4FD6-8C41-2C59A3F8EB48.jpg

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  21. #12
    Junior Member Rank = Tosai Rusho's Avatar
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    I found some images of a very tidy filtration set up if anybody has any photos of any similar filtration set ups they could share?
    C861FC75-4DFF-42E9-A300-F48004FA8B29.jpeg240DAA49-F599-436B-84E9-D3F6FBEF9EF6.jpeg14964279-2C76-4A72-82B6-58EB410E76FA.jpeg

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