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Thread: Help, koi death
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03-12-2019, 10:52 PM #21
Help, koi death
I’ll keep this post updated with updates as and when I know more. Thanks all for the support and advise so far it is appreciated. I thought the winter was going to be boring.. I like the challenge but shame it’s at the cost to my little jewels
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04-12-2019, 05:47 PM #22
Help, koi death
Managed to catch the little guy who had been hanging at the top. Seems healthy visually in my opinion.
I did a good scrape around the gills, had a good look around but could see no movement at all.
I took some photos of what looks as close to fluke shape but I would like some options on it as I have never seen one before
These are all 400x results
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04-12-2019, 11:33 PM #23
If it was a fluke it would be wriggling around mate, and I think it would look bigger than that at 400x.
If that were a fluke id guess to be that size you'd be at about 100x.
Doesn't look like there's much mucus on the slide though and they are usually caught up in the mucus when you scrape.
There aren't many decent videos of scrapes being done but there are some sticky threads on here explaining how to do a good scrape (p.s I'm crap at them), and some good videos of various parasites.
I'll try and find a video later and post a link.
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05-12-2019, 12:06 AM #24
Thanks, yeah no movement at all I did see a sample video of a fluke and it was very mobile.
There was a fair amount of mucus on the slide nothing there to show. I see a tip about adding a few drops of water to the slide before cover slip is added.
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05-12-2019, 12:57 AM #25
This test result is from an EA Pond Detox unit that was 6 WEEKS old when the test was taken....
https://youtu.be/6IEnypxk9SM
You might be shocked.
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05-12-2019, 01:57 PM #26
Hmm interesting, I did not think you were supposed to shake it to ensure you are not adding dissolved oxygen... read it can give false readings.
Well my DPD just arrived.. noticed that I don’t have the rapid dissolve tablets, but the tintometer grade. From what I have read these are actually better as no cloudy white water..
Will need crushing though I assume
I’ll get a test completed when I get home
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05-12-2019, 02:54 PM #27
The photometer grade tablets leave the water clear but are difficult to dissolve and usually more expensive. The ordinary ones have a built in filler that blows the tablet apart so it dissolves rapidly. They leave the water tinted white so pure white means no chlorine/chloramine and any tint of pink means there is a trace of chlorine/chloramine.
Personally, I have no trouble distinguishing between pure white or white with a faint tinge of pink and prefer them for all manual tests including this one because they dissolve quickly and fully. However, I know that other people prefer the photometer grade which was why, when I came up with that that test and described how to do it on my website, I gave the two options - try the cheaper rapid dissolving types but use the photometer grade (clear ones) if you find the white tint confusing.
BTW, several people have copied my original test and put it on their websites or YouTube but many don't really understand how the tablets work so, as you say, you see them shaking the sample to death in order to make tablets dissolve. In my description, I warn people not to do that because it adds oxygen and can give a false positive. So it isn't a big-headed thing when I ask people to post links to my original and correct method on my site; it's because I see so many copies of it where they don't understand that this test must be done correctly for the results to be valid.
The correct method is here:
Questions Answered
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05-12-2019, 03:28 PM #28
Thanks manky..
Is the amount of water you add to the tube relevant? I see you advise 10ml I have seen videos only using 5ml.
I only ask this as my api tubes are not 10ml
I am no chemist but if you get clear results in 5ml surly this still shows there is no chlorine?
Thanks in advance
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05-12-2019, 03:48 PM #29
10 ml in a standard tube is about right but it isn't so much the volume that's important, it's more to do with the depth. Ideally, you want as much depth as possible, without exceeding 10 ml because the greater the depth, the more water you are looking through and that sort of amplifies any hint of pink, so to speak.
That's why I say that you don't look through the side in the usual way because you will only be looking through about 10 mm of water. If you look down on the tube, you will be looking through about 50 mm and any colour change will be about five times easier to see.
I don't know what tubes you're using but a tall thin one is better than a short dumpy one.
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05-12-2019, 03:51 PM #30
Perfect. I think mine will be fine then.
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05-12-2019, 03:57 PM #31
Yep. fill them up as near to the top as you can without spilling if you have to crush the tablet and they'll be fine.
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05-12-2019, 04:15 PM #32
Help, koi death
Ok so I tested direct from tap, filtered and pond
See results.. all are pink but reduced along the journey
So what’s next for me to remove this.
Pond is 7500ltrs
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Mikeh83; 05-12-2019 at 04:52 PM.
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05-12-2019, 08:30 PM #33
Another of manky sanke's useful tips, sodium thiosulphate crystals, brilliant at dechlorinating the water. Cheap as chips on eBay or amazon, make it up according to manky's recipe which I think is 33g in 250ml of water, this becomes a stock solution which is then added to the water when you do water changes at the rate of 10ml per 100 gallons, best to check my numbers on his webpage or I don't mind being corrected by someone else if I'm wrong
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05-12-2019, 08:40 PM #34
Thanks for the plug Karen,
This may be the information you were referring to:
Sodium thiosulphate can be used to dechlorinate water either as dry crystals or made into a liquid if that is more convenient. I calculated this chart for students on my on-line water quality course which is designed for an international student base so I calculated it for all three major measuring systems which allows them to use whichever units they prefer. You only need to use enough for the amount of top up water that is about to be added but sodium thiosulphate is virtually non toxic unless added in ridiculous quantities so you can be very generous in the amounts added.
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05-12-2019, 11:49 PM #35
A good parasite identification video, apologies for the delay in posting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAPVLd4w4xE
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06-12-2019, 06:40 AM #36
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06-12-2019, 08:54 AM #37
Thanks for sharing RS.
So there have been no more deaths.
Ammonia and nitrite still present and fish are flashing.
I am doing daily water change 5%
Got some TS on order.
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06-12-2019, 09:55 AM #38
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06-12-2019, 10:09 AM #39
Feeding stopped as soon as I showed any sign of poor water quality. The 5% was an estimation likely is higher but nothing close to 30%
I’m On gravity feed so can only dump around 10% as I have a small surface area but high depth
I’ll have to do 3 cycles
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06-12-2019, 10:31 AM #40
Ok mate understand. You need to dilute it down as quick as you can. To get them tests to the zero mark. Then the 5% water changes will help more. You don t want the fish to get ulcers with the flashing. Especially in winter.
How old is the pond.
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Best plants to remove Nitrate
pug has a very impressive veg filter on his pond, have a look at some of his his youtube videos....