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  1. #1

    Exclamation Flukes + Flubenol + Acetone

    Hey All. Im having quite a bad fluke problem and nothing seems to shift them these days, not even colombo lernex pro, fluke solve double dose, everything is clean and spotless.

    Can someone tell me where to buy Flubenol + Acetone and what is the dose rate. How to mix it up etc. I would really like to give this a try.

    Thank you



  2. #2
    Hardest bit will be getting Flubenol, unless your a Farmer or know a friendly one, you will struggle to it.
    Acetone off eBay.
    Flubenol 1grm per 100 gallons
    Acetone 10ml per 1000 gallons..
    You may have more luck with Praziquantel, easier to get hold of.

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  4. #3
    Thank you.

    I might try the vets on Monday then.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Might not work for everyone, but where fluke solve and Lernex pro failed for me, normal Lernex nailed them.

    From memory Lernex contains Flubendazole and Levamisol.

    If you want just flubendazole / flubenol that is in Kusuri Fluke M.

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  8. #5
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion davethefish1's Avatar
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    It's curious that different people have success with different treatments.
    Yet all are supposed to kill flukes...

    I'm astonished considering the size of the koi industry
    that more scientific information isn't available....
    As the academic papers published on whitespot lifecycles in marine aquariums...

    For example a full study of the lifecycle of gill flukes.
    So we know exactly how to treat them.

    If a couple if treatments don't completely eradicate them has the treatment failed?
    Or do we call them 'resistant' to the medication?

    Or was it that the parameters of the treatment were unsuccessful?
    Like length and timings between doses?
    Given that gill fluke eggs can last for over 6 months over winter...

    Do we know that 100% of flukes are hatching within 3 weeks?
    Maybe the 'resistant' flukes are just the flukes adapting to medication by lengthening the time between hatching?

    I've done 3 doses of fluke solve over 3 weeks at 20C,
    and can only cross my fingers that I've caught all the eggs.
    The 'treatment it's self was very effective at killing adult flukes.
    The issue I feel is the length of time eggs can hatch out not just most of them but ALL of them....
    Last edited by davethefish1; 31-05-2020 at 10:02 PM.

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  10. #6
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Agree with everything you say there Dave.

    Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that all the medications we use come from the same few manufacturers and are just labelled and packaged for each brand with little brand research into what the chemicals really do.

    For example the Velda website sends you to Praziquantel for costia treatment. The NT labs diagnosis tool is complete rubbish and just a means to direct you to pretty much any product they can sell.... Then when you actually buy the products the instructions on the labels are missing crucial information or totally wrong, and the dosages on some medications err so much on the side of caution the medication becomes too weak to actually kill the parasites in question, but you can't increase the dose because some products have doses that would be dangerous to increase. One PP product tells you to keep water purple for minimum 15 hours which in itself is dangerous but they don't tell you how to do it or that you need more oxygen during treatment.

    Anyway, sorry for the off thread rant.

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  12. #7
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion davethefish1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    Agree with everything you say there Dave.

    Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that all the medications we use come from the same few manufacturers and are just labelled and packaged for each brand with little brand research into what the chemicals really do.

    For example the Velda website sends you to Praziquantel for costia treatment. The NT labs diagnosis tool is complete rubbish and just a means to direct you to pretty much any product they can sell.... Then when you actually buy the products the instructions on the labels are missing crucial information or totally wrong, and the dosages on some medications err so much on the side of caution the medication becomes too weak to actually kill the parasites in question, but you can't increase the dose because some products have doses that would be dangerous to increase. One PP product tells you to keep water purple for minimum 15 hours which in itself is dangerous but they don't tell you how to do it or that you need more oxygen during treatment.

    Anyway, sorry for the off thread rant.

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    i agree...
    but we should be ranting!
    there are billions of pounds being made out of koi,

    but very little of that goes back to improve the hobby it's self...unless there is ££££'s attached to it.
    sure they'll sell you something, anything to monetise it...

    who is the leading the field in Koi disease treatment in the UK?
    where is this basic information for all hobbiests?

    where is all the supposed Koi research that is done at university level in japan?

    i first started keep koi in the 90's and thought information was hard to come by then...
    ....things seem to have improved very little in the way of information sharing by leading companies in 30 years!

    the one exception i've found to that is mankey sankey's web site.
    all the professional insight and information he has researched, collated, and put up on his website for anyone to easily access. FOR FREE!
    he should be lauded for it.... Sir Mankey of Sankey?

    my rant over...

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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    I think Paula Reynolds is about one of the only approachable experts on koi health in the UK. When she's gone who knows who'll take over.

    I was just looking at EAs new medication offerings. They have a dosing system designed to not shock the koi when treating, so you add half dose on day 1 and half dose on day 4. Looking at their formalin the problem is their total dose is very conservative and arguably not strong enough to kill parasites, but formalin can completely degrade / be bound out of an aerated pond in under 36 hours so by the time you add the 2nd half of the dose the first half has already completely degraded. I double checked some scientific papers to confirm that. So following their instructions and dosages is definitely easy on the koi, but will do nothing to kill the parasites either!

    Very tempted to email them and ask for quantification on the science behind it because it contradicts everything else I've researched.


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    Last edited by RS2OOO; 01-06-2020 at 12:28 AM.

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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    I believe most the medications have lost there strength in half the time they say they last for. So when you come to do say a second dose. It's to late. IE eggs for example. Because you have waited say 7 days. Let's say then redose with 2nd dose
    You have lost say 5 days of strength in the first dose.
    If that makes sense.
    That's my opinion on medication.
    Fred

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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Nanasai Fishplanetkoi's Avatar
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    In the same vein of thought....

    Based on a 3000 gallon pond

    Fluke M (Flubenol) dosage is 11.8 grams per 1000 gallons, which is 35.4 grams per pond dose.

    Flubenol 5% powder, is 1 gram per 89 gallons, so for 3000g is 33.7 grams for pond dose.

    So very similar apart from the fact that in a 65 gram packet of Fluke M there is only 50 grams of Flubenol, the rest is chalk powder. So although the Fluke M looks stronger it actually isn't .

    Not sure how this would effect doses, but maybe this is why Fluke M is not always successful.

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  20. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishplanetkoi View Post
    In the same vein of thought....

    Based on a 3000 gallon pond

    Fluke M (Flubenol) dosage is 11.8 grams per 1000 gallons, which is 35.4 grams per pond dose.

    Flubenol 5% powder, is 1 gram per 89 gallons, so for 3000g is 33.7 grams for pond dose.

    So very similar apart from the fact that in a 65 gram packet of Fluke M there is only 50 grams of Flubenol, the rest is chalk powder. So although the Fluke M looks stronger it actually isn't .

    Not sure how this would effect doses, but maybe this is why Fluke M is not always successful.
    To be fair I have used fluke m the last 2 years. With chlormine t used first. For mucus. And got rid of my flukes.
    This year I treated different with fluke m.

    I used chloramine t first.
    Then dropped my water from 5000 gallons to 4000 gallons. Then treat the pond with fluke m. For 5000 gallons.
    Then topped pond back up to 5000 gallons over a 4 hour period.
    I had a vat full of water 700gallons with pump just in case of a problem.
    There was not a problem. It worked.
    I also treat with fmg 2 days later. Same way. In case I missed anything on the scrape microscope
    Test.
    I have scraped 5 fish. Nothing. And not a flash or jump since.
    Fred

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    Last edited by freddyboy; 01-06-2020 at 12:07 PM.

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  22. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by freddyboy View Post
    I believe most the medications have lost there strength in half the time they say they last for. So when you come to do say a second dose. It's to late. IE eggs for example. Because you have waited say 7 days. Let's say then redose with 2nd dose
    You have lost say 5 days of strength in the first dose.
    If that makes sense.
    That's my opinion on medication.
    Fred

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    Yes i totally agree with that. I think most meds are spent after 3 days to be honest..

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  24. #13
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomtomtom View Post
    Yes i totally agree with that. I think most meds are spent after 3 days to be honest..
    That's what I think as well. 48 to 72 hours
    Is my belief. I also think its weak at the start. That's why I give a stronger treatment for a few hours at the start of treatments. If I did nt have Rudd orfs and tench in the pond. I would leave it longer.
    At stronger strength
    Fred


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