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  1. #1

    Coating over existing fibreglass pond

    Hi all.
    Ive recently drained my koi pond to make a few changes to it.
    It was originally fibreglassed and after draining it down i was thinking on wether to re-glass it or just coat over it in one of the newest type rubber pond coatings. In a few places part of the top coat has flaked and tbh i thought glassing it would last a lifetime. Obvioisly it doesnt and have since found out that its reccomended to glass every 15 to 20 yrs.
    Having used different coatings myself in flat roofing trade i know they have come on loads and roofs can be garaunteed for 25yrs once coated so am in 2 minds wether to coat it. The main 2 reasons are cost and longevity. I do know rubber coatings are alot more forgiving aswell with expansion etc so am after some advice from those who have used these coatings for there ponds as in how well they have lasted and if these pond coatings are as good as the ones we sometimes use on flat roofs.
    Any advice would be much appreciated



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai hippo's Avatar
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    Hi ,

    I`ll be surprised if anyone can recommend a finish that will outlast fiberglassing . Is it possible that the topcoat hadn`t cured properly on the original build ? Maybe someone who has had a pond for a long time can advise on how long it lasts .
    Also , you`d have to make sure any coatings used are fish - safe .
    Colin

    2500 Gallon Fibreglass Pond
    Draco Solum 16 , 400l Bio Chamber

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    I inherited a 15 year old pond when moving into current house.

    Fibreglass was in a similar state to how the OP describes. Big splits in it, delaminated etc. Probably not helped by the fact the pond had been partly emptied for years and UV had got to it.

    A fibreglasser who looked at it said it hadn't been done perfectly but was more than acceptable and had just weathered.

    Next door were having a roof felted at the same time and their builders said they've stopped using GRP due to the same issues with my pond, but at an accelerated rate on roofs due to heat/cold wet/dry and UV damage.

    So could be something in it.

    But the best options on a pond are still likely to be fibreglassing or an EPDM liner regardless.

    I researched G4 sealer and skirting the odd horror story found a few online stories about it being problem free for 10-15 years, but that's no improvement over fibreglass really.

    My personal preference for a formal pond would still be a liner due to lower costs and flexibility of being able to re-use it, add extra pipework through it etc.

    Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
    Last edited by RS2OOO; 28-09-2022 at 11:44 PM.

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  5. #4
    Hi
    Yeah ive been flat roofing for nearly 30yrs and in that time fibreglass has made its way into roofing. Its not great at all for roofing and expected a longer life from it in my pond. Ive since sanded the whole lot using a flap sand disc on a mini grinder. The pin holes in it were something else. I know coatings can pin hole as used many different ones in my time flat roofing. The best ones for roofing are like a liquid rubber which are fantastic. Anyway on the pond front ive decided to use aquacote as its a water based 2 part epoxy resin. Once mixed it will go of hard like fibreglass in approx 2 hrs. Ive done loads of research on it and it seems aswell that alot of people use it to seal the hulls of boats with excellent results. Its very tough and durable, fish freindly and bonds to almost everything.
    So re coating over my existing fibreglass should give me a veey solid and waterproof pond for years to come. Also whilst its drained ive carried out other maintenance like adding an overflow as something i overlooked on original build. Also changed all my beads in my ub60 over to k1 micro and done away with my dodgy 4" slide valve for an ea 4" ball valve. I shall also be taking the new aquacote a couple of courses of bricks higher then the fibreglass under my waterfalls to help with spash back and growth on the lowest course.
    Hopefully now its all prepped my aquacote will be here in the next few days so as i can coat it the weekend.

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  7. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by fishing4england View Post
    Anyway on the pond front ive decided to use aquacote as its a water based 2 part epoxy resin.
    I used Aquacote to do my pond 5 years ago and so far it hasn't spilt a drop. As you say it sticks like sh*t to a blanket - I just roughed up the edges of my bottom drain, skimmer, return pipes etc and painted over them. You can apply it in pretty much any weather and you don't have to do it all in one go. It's even OK if the walls are slightly damp apparently.

    Good luck!

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  9. #6
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Interesting,let us know how you get on.
    John

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  11. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    Interesting,let us know how you get on.
    Well today i went for it on the aquacote front. Got to say i was tad nervous to start with as i know how quick coatings can go off once the catalyst is added and not being cheap i didnt want any wastage where it had dried quicker then i could apply it. One thing i did do is purchase the best rollers for the job as its quite thick so you dont need them falling apart once you start applying it as you havent got time to faff around.
    I made sure i had everything to hand as time is off the essence once mixed up.
    Ive got to say thoe im am at the moment very impressed with it.
    Bare in mind im use to different coatings using catalysts as ive used various ones whilst flat roofing, usually liquid rubber ones.
    I took a gamble on a different product as my pond was previously fibfreglassed and after finding out that fibreglass does have a very ltd life in water thought id try something which could give me a better product life at a cheaper cost. Also with fibreglass i found pin holes that were letting water through to existing screed that this product doesnt.
    If youve ever dealt with any sort of coating then you will know as the product goes off you get air escapes that creates minute pin holes which are a pain in the bum but this product doesnt seem to suffer from that. Maybe due to being water based has something to do with it.
    On the whole thoe im very impressed with it and the finish and hardness in which it goes off which is exactly the same as fibreglass but alot less cost and pin holes.
    Will it last and not flake?
    Tbh in my experience of using various coating products and witnessing first hand how they cure and bond etc im 100% certain that this will definitely last.
    At the end of the day its not a cheap paint on product but a 2 part epoxy resin and would definitely recommend to anyone who is in the process of a new build or renovating there existing pond.
    Epdm and box liners are defo old hat to what this offers and as for expensive fibreglass, personally id go for this aquacote any day of the week over that.
    Its basiacally the same product as in what it acheives but a fraction of the cost and without the risk of loads of pinholes in it that cause probs and anyone can do it with a bit of research and being preped

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  13. #8
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Twhitenosugar's Avatar
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    Thanks for the write up. Interesting to hear. It'd be great if it's another option to go with beyond the existing liner or fibreglass options.

    Please keep the thread updated with how you get on with the new lining once water goes in.

    How much did Aqua cote work out per mē? And did you need more than the covarge stated on the tin? I ask as when fibreglassing, I found I needed way more resin than came in the kit.

    Also how well prepared does the surface you are applying it to need to be? I'm just thinking that if applying over old topcoat, there will be algae and bio film that I imagine is hard to completely scrub off.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
    13,000L fibreglassed raised pond with window

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  15. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Twhitenosugar View Post
    Thanks for the write up. Interesting to hear. It'd be great if it's another option to go with beyond the existing liner or fibreglass options.

    Please keep the thread updated with how you get on with the new lining once water goes in.

    How much did Aqua cote work out per mē? And did you need more than the covarge stated on the tin? I ask as when fibreglassing, I found I needed way more resin than came in the kit.

    Also how well prepared does the surface you are applying it to need to be? I'm just thinking that if applying over old topcoat, there will be algae and bio film that I imagine is hard to completely scrub off.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
    I am one of those that is known in my trade as way to over fussy for what i do so if something is not up to scratch or good enough then i would 100% say so and that goes for product or workmanship. Call me old fashioned but im do it once, do it right and move on to the next job. No point wasting time going over what somethinhg that youve already done or had someone do as waste of time, hassle and money hence i give honest oponion so we all learn.
    On the meterage coverage i got about 6sqm which is about whats specced for the right thickness needed. I will say thoe you need to be fully prepped ready to go when its knocked up. If your doing fiddly areas that take time as in cutting in etc then break it down as in cut in that area that metreage allows then roll in the flat. Dont be faffing about cutting in whole pond area then try roll the rest as it wont happen. People have to bear in mind this cures quick like all good products so time is of the essence . Also work out you area in metreage square and dont try scrape to save on a tin as falling short is a headache for the sake of 1 extra tub. Bear in mind this is your main bowl that hold x amonut of gallons and done right will last in excess of 20 yrs plus whereas one tin you could end up draining the lot, sanding re doing the lot so one extra is a smalln price to pay in the long term.
    Most important is make sure your prepped.
    Ie everything to hand as in pond walls prepped, coating to hand, extra roller heads to change over between mixes etc as it goes of and dont want to be using pre used roller heads where the coating is going off and you try use fresh batch of coating as the one you just used is going off differently tp what you may of just knocked up. .
    Honestly i may make it sound awkward but its only because you have a ltd time frame off mixed in catalyst to when it gets to a point of you cant spread or use.
    Just break it down in m3 set that goal for the time allowed and simply knock it up and get painting.
    Have your coffee before lol cause once its mixed you aint stopping. And tbh one a tin is mixed you should prob have it down in 20 mins max anyway as there not massive amounts to do.
    Honestly if your prepped and get on it you will save yourself a fortune and get a solid waterproof pond..
    Also remember if your not happy with any areas you can alaway lightly sand back and go over.
    Its not rocket science but a great product better then box liners and cheaper then getting a fibreglaser in to do it as it goes off the same at fraction of the cost.
    Honestly if it was no good or i thought this is ok but will do for now i wouldnt use it or would have it re fibregalsed.
    By the way i dont work or have anything to do with aquacote , im just like everyone on this forum passing on my experience which is where we learn and can pass on our honest experiences

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  17. #10
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Thanks for your honest opinion and sure it will help on here.

    Have considered making a concrete bio from 4ins blocks rendered and painted but not sure yet.
    Have you a picture of the finished pond?
    John

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  19. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Alburglar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishing4england View Post
    Anyway on the pond front ive decided to use aquacote as its a water based 2 part epoxy resin. Once mixed it will go of hard like fibreglass in approx 2 hrs.
    If it's an epoxy resin, it won't be like fibreglass resin, it IS fibreglass resin -this product is probably mixed with something which isn't as good as epoxy, to make it cheaper. You get polyester resins and you get epoxy resins.
    Epoxy is best ( and pricier). Polyester resins are fine but you need a decent Lloyds approved resin. Which means it's good enough to use on marine going vessels!
    A Lloyds approved flow coat is always going to be a better option though.
    I would suggest that for fibreglass jobs without longevity, a cheap resin and/or top coat are usually to blame. Something that isn't UV stable. The Lloyds approved ones are UV stable.
    Last edited by Alburglar; 02-10-2022 at 11:08 AM.
    Kikusui, Beni Kikokuryu, Hariwake, Sanke, Yotsujiro, Doitsu Aka Bekko, Purachina & Mukashi Ogon.

 

 

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