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  1. #1
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    Solenoid red hot after washes on draco

    Hello

    If you have seen my other post on why my draco has stopped washing at certain times this is a follow on but also a new question.

    Yesterday I took apart the solenoid and gave it a clean as the drum has stopped washing every now and again at random.

    After putting the solenoid back it now gets red hot after just one wash.

    As the drum in peak feeding can be washing every 8 minutes I am concerned . Currently have the drum on 1 rotation per wah to try and minimise the amount of electricity to the solenoid aka keep it cool.

    Have a tightened the screw at the top of the solenoid too tight? its this causing the overheat or is it on its way out

    any help would be great

    thanks

    jim



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimJones View Post
    Hello

    If you have seen my other post on why my draco has stopped washing at certain times this is a follow on but also a new question.

    Yesterday I took apart the solenoid and gave it a clean as the drum has stopped washing every now and again at random.

    After putting the solenoid back it now gets red hot after just one wash.

    As the drum in peak feeding can be washing every 8 minutes I am concerned . Currently have the drum on 1 rotation per wah to try and minimise the amount of electricity to the solenoid aka keep it cool.

    Have a tightened the screw at the top of the solenoid too tight? its this causing the overheat or is it on its way out

    any help would be great

    thanks

    jim
    I come across a similar problem in the course of my work on tail lifts believe it or not.

    Usually when a solenoid valve coil is getting hot its a sign that the internal windings are breaking down, this causes the coil to build resistance, which is what produces the heat.

    It could be you have crushed the coil and damaged the windings? or maybe it was on its way out anyway? either way usually means it needs replacing before it shorts out and start blowing fuses.
    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 1x Bermuda 10,000, 1x Bermuda 20,000 Vari Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aqua-Sieve Midi, 3 Tier Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator & Seneye Pond Pack.
    "That'll do, pig. That'll do"

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    Hi ruffers

    I haven't damaged the coil to my knowledge all I did was take it apart clean some dirt out and very carefully put it back.
    Didnt touch any windings as they are all glued on in the inside of the draco coil. You could not move the windings and I put it back so that the two wires going to the control unit were right next to the exit out of the solenoid.
    Perhaps I should order a spare one form Draco to be sure?

    thanks

    Jim

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  6. #4
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Not sure about the solenoid but the float switch sounds faulty and needs replacing,when mine went I went to Tony at Draco and he charged 35 for a new float which was sealed into the pipe and ready for fitting which I thought very expensive but I needed it and paid it.
    Then I made my own spare one,no good messing about cleaning it all the time.
    Are you in Manchester as I can send you a float ready to fit.
    Solenoids arnt too dear on Ebay etc.
    John

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  8. #5
    I changed my drop in from pumped to mains cleaning so had to fit a solenoid, bought from this guy. Obviously 12v Normally Closed but can’t be sure on the size but I’d think it was 3/4 but you’d need to check your size.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253581032647

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  10. #6
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    Not sure about the solenoid but the float switch sounds faulty and needs replacing,when mine went I went to Tony at Draco and he charged 35 for a new float which was sealed into the pipe and ready for fitting which I thought very expensive but I needed it and paid it.
    Then I made my own spare one,no good messing about cleaning it all the time.
    Are you in Manchester as I can send you a float ready to fit.
    Solenoids arnt too dear on Ebay etc.

    Yes I am just outside of chealde

    Seen the float switches on ebay via Rs,Diotsu and frimley on my other post only a fiver and looking at the draco on e its seems its just 1/2 solvent weld pipe with a female screw right angle as the outide case

    Take it they are not hard to put in the draco control box

    thanks mate

    Jim

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  12. #7
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Hi Jim, what sort of Draco have you and have you a photo?
    Want to make sure mine fits yours.
    John

  13. #8
    Electrical components that have windings which create heat including solenoids, motors, relays etc. have a "duty cycle" rating which defines how long they can be on and creating internal heat vs off and cooling down before the next on period. Some are rated as continuous i.e, they can be on all the time. A duty cycle for solenoids of five minutes on vs ten minutes off isn't uncommon.

    If a solenoid that is rated as a few minutes on and several minutes off is left in the operated period for too long then it will get hotter than the original manufacturers intended which can cause it to run very hot and have a short life or even get too hot and burn out.

    It's possible that this solenoid may be developing short circuited windings which would cause it to overheat and ultimately burn out or it simply may be being switched on for too long compared with the off time that it was designed for so the first question to answer is "how long is it on and how long off when running in this situation?"

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  15. #9
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manky Sanke View Post
    Electrical components that have windings which create heat including solenoids, motors, relays etc. have a "duty cycle" rating which defines how long they can be on and creating internal heat vs off and cooling down before the next on period. Some are rated as continuous i.e, they can be on all the time. A duty cycle for solenoids of five minutes on vs ten minutes off isn't uncommon.

    If a solenoid that is rated as a few minutes on and several minutes off is left in the operated period for too long then it will get hotter than the original manufacturers intended which can cause it to run very hot and have a short life or even get too hot and burn out.

    It's possible that this solenoid may be developing short circuited windings which would cause it to overheat and ultimately burn out or it simply may be being switched on for too long compared with the off time that it was designed for so the first question to answer is "how long is it on and how long off when running in this situation?"

    Great stuff thank you.

    I have removed a raincover that was partially over the solenoid so it now has more air flow over it and reduced the Draco wash from 3 to 2 so the solenoid is not on for as long. This seems to make a difference

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  17. #10
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    in the meantime after washing the sensor several times with a hose it seems to be behaving.

    Gone a full 4 days with it working ( touchwood)

    Jim

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  19. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    draco.jpgHi mate - i have the draco drop in - the one with 4 cleaning jets. Sensor clogged again this morning and had to rinse it thoroughly. you can see the sensor in the back of shot.

    thanks

    Jim

 

 

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