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Thread: PH and KH increased
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23-02-2021, 07:08 PM #1
PH and KH increased
After checking my water paramaters a couple of days ago the PH was looking quite weak compared to normal and the KH had dropped to 2 from its usual 5 so added some bicarb past two days at 100g per 1000 gallons, today PH back to its usual colour around 7.5 and the KH had increased to 5 so much better, just goes to show how easily these key parameters can drop away in your pond......
2200 gallons,infinity window,
Evolve 4k combi,spindrifter,
2x20k pumps, BD,Skimmer,
Shower, ASHP
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23-02-2021, 07:16 PM #2Freddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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23-02-2021, 07:16 PM #3
I reckon I test KH more than any other parameter. Luckily it’s a quick and easy test to do and with a normal KH of 3-4 the test bottle lasts ages too
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23-02-2021, 07:37 PM #4
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23-02-2021, 08:03 PM #52200 gallons,infinity window,
Evolve 4k combi,spindrifter,
2x20k pumps, BD,Skimmer,
Shower, ASHP
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john1 Thanked / Liked this Post
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23-02-2021, 09:48 PM #6John
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24-02-2021, 12:55 PM #7Freddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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john1 Thanked / Liked this Post
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24-02-2021, 01:47 PM #8
Tap water goes straight to yellow - wow that’s not so good!
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john1 Thanked / Liked this Post
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24-02-2021, 01:53 PM #9Freddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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john1 Thanked / Liked this Post
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24-02-2021, 02:06 PM #10
Straight or sometimes 1 drop to yellow,pond usually kept around 3,due a check now come to think of it.
John
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24-02-2021, 02:16 PM #11Freddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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24-02-2021, 02:49 PM #12
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24-02-2021, 03:21 PM #13
Just tested my KH and it’s 9, I believe the higher the number the more stable it is right ????
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24-02-2021, 03:28 PM #14
John is correct. There is often confusion on Internet forums regarding how to do KH and GH tests and especially how to interpret the results. Apart from using different reagents the method is the same for either the KH or the GH test and is simple if you follow these five steps:
- Take the sample and, if the kit manufacture states that an initial reagent is required then add it, if not proceed to step 2 to determine the value of KH or GH.
- Add one drop of the test reagent at a time. Don’t shake vigorously to mix, simply swirl or use a plastic stirrer.
- Note the initial colour after the first drop and continue adding drops until the initial colour JUST BEGINS to change. (This is called the end point).
- Count all drops added in steps 2 & 3, including the first one. It is sometimes incorrectly stated on forums that the first drop should not be counted.
- The value of °KH or °GH is given by the number of drops used. (Multiply by 17.8 to convert to ppm / mg/L or see the table).
The change is normally very abrupt but, in rare cases, if it is just on the edge of the transition from the initial colour to the final colour, it will be half way between the two and this can be confusing (see the end point diagram). If you aren’t sure if you have reached the transition you can add an extra drop to make certain. This will complete the colour change and confirm that the previous drop had already reached the end point but don't count this extra drop.
Interpreting the results in degrees (KH or GH):
Colour change happens after:
1st drop the value is between 0 and 1.0 degrees
2nd drop the value is between 1.0 and 2.0 degrees
3rd drop the value is between 2.0 and 3.0 degrees
And so on.
A more precise way to measure the value, especially when the KH or GH is low is to use twice the recommended sample size then each drop counts as 0.5 degrees e.g.
1st drop indicates 0 to 0.5 degrees
2nd drop indicates 0.5 to 1.0 degrees
3rd drop indicates 1.0 to 1.5 degrees
And so on.
For very low values, an even more precise way, is to use four times the recommended sample size, then each drop counts as 0.25 degrees. This is very accurate but uses a lot of reagent so is only suitable for low values. Using the usual recommended sample size so that one drop of reagent = 1 degree is sufficiently accurate for normal values of KH or GH.
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24-02-2021, 04:22 PM #15
Out the tap the first drop. (it's the api test) water slightly gos yellow. Out of the pond the water is blue on first drop and jumps very distinct yellow on the 3rd drop.
Sent from my F5121 using TapatalkFreddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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24-02-2021, 05:19 PM #16
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24-02-2021, 05:30 PM #17
Those results mean that your supply KH is below 1°KH. You can use the methods in my last post to find the exact value if you wish or just assume that your supply has a level of bugger all°KH and always add some sodium bicarbonate when you top up or do a water change to suit your chosen value of KH in the pond.
Your pond KH is between 2°KH and 3°KH. You can run it at that level if you wish to take advantage of free RO water on tap and are prepared to spend the time to monitor it very frequently to make sure it doesn't suddenly fall and cause a pH crash, or you can increase it to between 5 and 7 which will cause the pH to rise nearer to 8.4
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24-02-2021, 05:39 PM #18
Added a touch more bicarb 1 hour ago. Just checked wide range pH is still 7.5.
Kh is now very slight change at 3 drops full on yellow at 4.
So has moved up a bit.
I'll be going down the it's got bugger all and adding bicarb root I think lol
Sent from my F5121 using TapatalkFreddyboy the legend
"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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24-02-2021, 06:09 PM #19
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24-02-2021, 06:11 PM #20
I would personally love to have tap water with no KH in it personally, so congratulations
When I’m running RO I keep the KH at just below 2. That gives a pH of around 7.2 in my setup which is great for keeping any ammonia non toxic, and also gives good pH stability, without compromising the nitrite bugs who like to use carbonates to metabolise. Obviously don’t do this unless you are keeping an extremely close eye on it, or you have a pH controller to do that for you.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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