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  1. #1

    Plumbing Problems

    Having a bit of a mare working out how to change pipework to fit my new drum filter. All could be okay if I use a 4" rubber connector elbow to slightly change the angle of the pipe before the ball valve. Is this a "never, ever do this" type thing or a "not great but will probably be okay" scenario? The alternative involves a lot more work.

    Thanks in advance.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Mikeh83's Avatar
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    Plumbing Problems

    Why can you not use the rubber boot after the ball valve.. that would be a much better option


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  3. #3
    Hi Mike,
    Difficult to explain but basically the 4" pipe from bottom drain comes up at a slight angle (solvent weld set too quickly) which was fine for the multibay as it was quite close to the pipe but the drum will be about 2m away and therefore the longer pipe exaggerates the angle and ends up about 20cm off. With a rubber boot I can correct the angle slightly.
    No space for the ball valve before the bend. Do the rubber boots ever completely fail? Was thinking of using gold label and then wrapping it.

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  4. #4

    Plumbing Problems

    Hi Letimgo
    I agree with Mike, the problem with putting the rubber connector before the valve is that they can deteriorate and you would have no way of being able to close off the water from the BD without emptying the pond to the connector level.
    My valve is before the rubber connector on my set up for that reason.
    So it’s not a complete no go but I wouldn’t recommend it....
    Cheers
    Ady


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  6. #5
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai arceye's Avatar
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    Hard to picture quite what you are up against, but could you not use a heat gun to put a slight bend in the new longer pipe to bring it in line with where you need to be?

    Others may well disagree, but I wouldn't have any qualms using a rubber fitting anywhere where it is accessible to keep an eye on over time though this is assuming it isn't being placed under stress during operation i.e when opening / closing a valve.

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  8. #6
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai arceye's Avatar
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    Cross posted but Adyprice makes a good point re future maintenance.

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  10. #7
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Mikeh83's Avatar
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    I don’t disagree about rubber fittings, they are great but I would want to have a value before any rubber so it’s possible to change it out without having to drain or plug the pond.


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  12. #8
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    Looks like predictive text strikes again Mike

    You've written 'value' not 'valve' unless I'm seeing things?

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  14. #9
    Bending 4"/110mm pipe by a small amount is relatively easy.
    I tried various ways over the years, but the one that worked best for me is as follows:

    1. In thick felt tip, draw a line all the way around the point where you want to bend.
    2. Put two lines across this line at about 1" apart. The idea is that this small section is not going to get any direct heat and will act as the "hinge".
    3. Get a bucket of cold water ready.
    4. With a heat gun (have used a blow torch, but must avoid too much scorching) heat carefully around the rest of the line, going backwards and forwards. All but the 1" section.
    If the pipe is pressure pipe and thick walled it will take a while to get it supple.
    5. When it is hot enough you should notice the pipe begin to flex slightly as you handle it. It must get nice and soft or it will split.
    6. The way I do it is to lie the pipe down with the unheated 1" section on the bottom and lift gently. The pipe should bulge slightly on the top. Don't try and bend it too far.
    7. As soon as it is bent enough, or as far as you dare, pour on the cold water from the bucket to set it in place.
    8. The good news: This method makes virtually no difference to cross sectional area and should not hinder flow. If it hasn't bent enough, make another bend a little further on. You can try it on a loose bit of pipe and only fix it in place when right.

    Here is an example of some 110mm sewer pipe I bent using this method. Thinner wall so less heat needed, but same principle:

    Last edited by Ukzero; 25-01-2021 at 05:47 PM.
    My DIY ponds from 1988 until present day.
    All can be found here:
    https://www.ukzero.com/pond.htm

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    Just need to double check the jubilee clips ever so often on the flexi rubber boots so The Legend told me

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  18. #11
    Post removed because it duplicated what Ukzero posted while I was typing.
    Last edited by Manky Sanke; 25-01-2021 at 05:42 PM.

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  20. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manky Sanke View Post
    Post removed because it duplicated what Ukzero posted while I was typing.
    Great minds think alike eh

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  22. #13
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frimley Koi keeper View Post
    Just need to double check the jubilee clips ever so often on the flexi rubber boots so The Legend told me
    Haha yes go on freddy. Great advice tho hoping I don't need it but we ll see when I do bottom drain this spring. Is it hard to solvent weld hear that many people saying twist the pipe and others saying not to?

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  24. #14
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    Heard both options too about twisting or not twisting the pipe so that's why I try to use flexi rubber boots where possible.

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  26. #15
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai big h's Avatar
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    Ring jase at jbr plastics. He will
    make you a joint that can be offset to your spec

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  28. #16
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frimley Koi keeper View Post
    Heard both options too about twisting or not twisting the pipe so that's why I try to use flexi rubber boots where possible.
    Wanna try to stop away from rubber boots where possible I know they are good and have their place but can fail from time to time

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    Freddyboy the legend

    "we are water keepers first"

    Johnathan

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  30. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Ukzero View Post
    Bending 4"/110mm pipe by a small amount is relatively easy.
    I tried various ways over the years, but the one that worked best for me is as follows:

    1. In thick felt tip, draw a line all the way around the point where you want to bend.
    2. Put two lines across this line at about 1" apart. The idea is that this small section is not going to get any direct heat and will act as the "hinge".
    3. Get a bucket of cold water ready.
    4. With a heat gun (have used a blow torch, but must avoid too much scorching) heat carefully around the rest of the line, going backwards and forwards. All but the 1" section.
    If the pipe is pressure pipe and thick walled it will take a while to get it supple.
    5. When it is hot enough you should notice the pipe begin to flex slightly as you handle it. It must get nice and soft or it will split.
    6. The way I do it is to lie the pipe down with the unheated 1" section on the bottom and lift gently. The pipe should bulge slightly on the top. Don't try and bend it too far.
    7. As soon as it is bent enough, or as far as you dare, pour on the cold water from the bucket to set it in place.
    8. The good news: This method makes virtually no difference to cross sectional area and should not hinder flow. If it hasn't bent enough, make another bend a little further on. You can try it on a loose bit of pipe and only fix it in place when right.

    Here is an example of some 110mm sewer pipe I bent using this method. Thinner wall so less heat needed, but same principle:

    I'm going to try this. What a great idea and will only need a very slight bend.
    Thank you very much. No rubber boots required!

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  32. #18
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai big h's Avatar
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    You can actually buy an adjustable push fit drainage fitting that rotates to your desired angle .Google Toolstation 110mm adjustable bend

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  34. #19
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion Ajm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big h View Post
    You can actually buy an adjustable push fit drainage fitting that rotates to your desired angle .Google Toolstation 110mm adjustable bend
    Thought ad seen some some but wasn't sure

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    Freddyboy the legend

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    Johnathan

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  36. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeh83 View Post
    I don’t disagree about rubber fittings, they are great but I would want to have a value before any rubber so it’s possible to change it out without having to drain or plug the pond.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    One metre square of Butyl pond liner over the bottom drain works well��

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