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  1. #1
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Nuclear resistant Costia

    Hi

    Im after a bit of opinion and a little bit of reassurance.

    Setup is 8 years old, heated to 14c 1500g with just 5 fish, all around the 50-60cm mark.

    Parameters are good, though do have to buffer as water is a bit too soft from tap.

    After having the odd fight with the flukes and tric over the years, where Iíve always won, back in May i introduced a Kohaku from a dealer which unfortunately brought with it an adversary Iíve never had to deal with before - costia .

    itís a tough little bugger isnít it....

    Iíve thrown PP, FMG and CT in various doses, but apart from knocking back, it never fully goes.

    Last treatment was 35g of CT, then followed 24 hours later by FMG at 50% above recommended dose ( seperates, not premix ) 2 weeks before Christmas - checked today and itís still there - though in small numbers which I had to scrape 3 fish for, but still there. .

    Fish are generally fine, no sulking, only the occasional flashing ,and only a little bit more mucus than normal .

    My question, and reluctance due to horror stories is do I bite the bullet and try Alparex / Kusuri A & MG , and if so do I strip with CT prior ?

    I havnt used any fluke treatment in over 12 months, and will increase KH to 7dh, pond is unsalted .

    opinion and reassurance would be appreciated 👍🏻



  2. #2
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    I had some nuclear resistance costia. Twice.

    One time I got rid of them using FMG at a very high dose. So high that 3 or 4 koi didn't look like they'd make it (due to high dosage, not the costia) , and then subsequently took quite a few weeks to recover.

    The 2nd time I used Alparex as per manufacturers recommendations and it shifted it.

    I believe CT will get rid of any parasite at the "right" dose and in the right water. I've dosed it at seriously high levels (more than triple your dose) and never had an adverse reaction, but again, I wouldn't actively recommend it to others.

    If I had to recommend one of the 3 options I'd say go with the Alparex, make sure your KH is above 5, add extra oxygen, and keep an eye on your koi as there have been reports of adverse reactions and losses. Mine sailed through it with no problems. Your water volume is low enough that you can quickly deal with any adverse reactions.

    Also check the effective temperature range against your pond temps.

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion Gazkoi's Avatar
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    Hi Tackletart,

    Whichever route you go, if you need any treatments I have plenty in stock and am permitted to open for sale if you wanted to pop over... (Covid rules, track and trace etc... all observed)

    Cheers

    Gaz
    4,100 gallon pond, infinity window, duratec heater, aerated BD, 3 bakki showers full of BHM, amalgam UV, 3 Blue Ecoís, construction skimmer, trickle in/out, Oase Profi Drum and some very spoilt koi.

    3 separate grow on vats, one 1,600 gallon QT and a customer first business

    www.aurorakoi.co.uk

    www.facebook.com/aurorakoiuk

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  6. #4
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Thanks RS, it was the reassurance I was after and the opinion that it does work.

    I’ve bought the Kusuri version, as Alparex was not available at my local dealer.

    Was going to treat today but Kh was wavering between 4/5 dh so will have to wait a few days .

    Bottle mentions treat after 7 days, up to 3 times, whereas am i correct in saying that Alparex is treat again 24 hours later ?

    Out of interest, how long does it stay bright green for ?

    And thanks Gaz, unfortunately I’ve already purchased, but will certainly make the journey over to the Black Country at some point for a gander !

  7. #5
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Alparex stays green for about a week, 2 weeks to fully clear.

    Yes it is dosed 24 hours apart, 2 doses in total.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

  8. #6
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Quick update .

    The Kusuri Acriflavine and Malachite appears to have done, what PP, Ct and FMG treatments couldn’t .

    After 2 treatments, 8 days apart, I’ve scraped today 10 days after the second treatment and fish ‘appear’ to be clear of Costia.

    They were fine on the first dose, but sulked a bit on the second dose for 2/3 days.

    Interestingly, on adding the second dose the water did still carry quite a bit of green tinge, so guessing the first dose wasn’t completely spent .

    I’ll scrape again next weekend, and if all ok would certainly use
    again, but only if costia present.

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  10. #7
    Senior Member Rank = Adult Champion samp09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tackletart Blue View Post
    Quick update .

    The Kusuri Acriflavine and Malachite appears to have done, what PP, Ct and FMG treatments couldn’t .

    After 2 treatments, 8 days apart, I’ve scraped today 10 days after the second treatment and fish ‘appear’ to be clear of Costia.

    They were fine on the first dose, but sulked a bit on the second dose for 2/3 days.

    Interestingly, on adding the second dose the water did still carry quite a bit of green tinge, so guessing the first dose wasn’t completely spent .

    I’ll scrape again next weekend, and if all ok would certainly use
    again, but only if costia present.
    Glad to hear you seem to have got rid of the buggers!

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  12. #8
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Fingers crossed - scrapes I took yesterday appeared completely clear.

    Costia has been by far the hardest parasite I’ve had to deal with, and every treatment prior has knocked backed, but never eradicated

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  14. #9
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Sounds promising.

    The only thing worse than nuclear resistant Costia are Nuclear powered super flukes. I'm certain these things can survive Armageddon.

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

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    Agreed Steve, theyíre little b******


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  17. #11
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    hi mate

    i tried virasure once a week and that did wonders for me.

    Jim

  18. #12
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Well, they’ve still got Costia - every treatment I’ve done has either not touched it, or knocked it back, only for it to show again a few weeks later.

    This has been a year long battle…

    Overdoses of CT, FMG, AMG , and PP just havnt worked

    The only thing I havnt done, and summer is on my side is to heat ramp. Ponds holding 19/20c, so winter covers back on and raising to 30c isn’t going to cost me the earth.

    has anyone had experience of successfully heat ramping to get rid of Costia ?

  19. #13
    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    I’ve not done it. But have you considered salting to 0.6% and using ICC from Duncan Griffith’s chemical factory? I had some costia a few years back that didn’t respond to FMG but did respond to that. It’s not come back over the 3 years since touch wood.

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  21. #14
    Salt has always done the trick for me 6.0ppt (0.6%). I had Sturgeon up until recently so salt was the only way to go anyway.

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  23. #15
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Naoki Atsumi's Avatar
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    14 degrees is simply not a suitable water temperature for keeping KOI. They may eat some food, but this is just a habit, and over a long period of time it may become a big burden for them. A water temperature of 15įC to 17įC is most troublesome. They will eat more and swim more, as if they are digesting their food, but this is not in proportion to the state of their digestion. It is in this temperature range, usually in early spring, that most beginners fail in Japan. A water temperature of 20įC is the minimum temperature at which the fish can be kept normally. When the water temperature rises above 24įC, there is a method of fattening that we Japanese use to prevent disease in the following year, which we will explain in due course.

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  25. #16
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Thanks Mal / Feline

    I’ll give the heat ramping a go - nothing to lose and as mentioned weathers on my side for the next two weeks.

    Just a shame having the covers back on in July ��

    it’ll be ICC and salt next if that fails, but fingers crossed ��

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  27. #17
    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    Just watch your oxygen levels if you go up to high temps and we get thunder on Monday- will be dodgier at higher temps potentially.

  28. #18
    Member Rank = Tosai Tackletart Blue's Avatar
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    Well, after 4 days of artificially heating to 30.3c, and then nature not dipping below 26.8c since with the current heatwave - I still have costia.

    Its only ever on one fish, and has been for over 12 months ( I have scraped others )

    i scraped at 25c on the way up and it was rife.

    I then Scraped after 2 days at 30.3c and it had reduced massively, to single figures on one slide - but still there.
    Last day at 30.3c was Saturday, scraped tonight and again single figures…

    Guess I’ll leave a few days and try the ICC and salt.

    On the plus side with heat ramping, Lernex pro on day 1 ( 22c )and then redosiing on day 3 ( 25c ) to catch the eggs has completely cleared the gill flukes I also found.

    At lease one positive note !

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