Thread: Stable PH

I have tested my water every 3-4 days using the API master kit since pond start up middle of last year and this has always shows my PH at what reads between 7.5 -8.0.

Fingers crossed, touch wood etc, as of yet no crashes, spikes.

This has been the same on every test for months and so I haven't tried to alter things.

Also I have read Koi prefer a slightly higher PH anyway ?

I have just installed Seneye and this is reading the PH as averaging 8.40 but ranging from 8.39 > 8.42.

Questions is....

Although on the high side the PH is I would say stable?
So do I stick with the stable PH or start messing with the water and try to reduce this back to say a PH of 7.5?

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Originally Posted by arceye

I think I'd be inclined to keep an eye on it seeing as it seems stable, whilst on the higher side it is within bounds, does the API test still show it at the same levels as previously tested?

One thing I would do is check is PH of source water and see if that is similar, also for anything that could be leeching (cement products etc). Then think about it from there.

Hi

Yes, API still reads the same.
I do have a trickle in running from a big blue dechlorinator.
Tap water is ok at 7 but I haven't checked the water direct from the dechlorinator?

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Hi ruffers.
You need to leave your tap water overnight in an open container before checking the pH because it tends to come out of the tap with a high dissolved CO2 level which makes it temporarily more acidic.
That’s why peoples pond pH always tends to seem higher than the supply.

Any stable pH between 6.8 and 8.5 is suitable for koi. So being at the high end of that is not a problem so long as it’s not swinging up above 8.5 on a hot summers afternoon when the algae are photosynthesising.

There are a couple of reasons why some koi keepers prefer to run at a lower pH

• Ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH so you have less wiggle room to push feeding in the warmer growth months
• hard water is generally believed to be worse for their skin, and might also have an impact of growth potential if you’re going for jumbo monsters from stock with the genetic potential for it. (However, sumi tends to develop better in harder water, so it’s not that straightforward a decision.)

The big problem is that running a lower pH is not easy to achieve. You can let the filters ‘consume’ some of your KH in summer and not change enough water to put it back up again, thus reducing your pH a bit. Or invest in RO which is expensive to set up and needs a lot of monitoring and wastes a lot of water.

Originally Posted by Feline

Hi ruffers.
You need to leave your tap water overnight in an open container before checking the pH because it tends to come out of the tap with a high dissolved CO2 level which makes it temporarily more acidic.
That’s why peoples pond pH always tends to seem higher than the supply.

Any stable pH between 6.8 and 8.5 is suitable for koi. So being at the high end of that is not a problem so long as it’s not swinging up above 8.5 on a hot summers afternoon when the algae are photosynthesising.

There are a couple of reasons why some koi keepers prefer to run at a lower pH

• Ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH so you have less wiggle room to push feeding in the warmer growth months
• hard water is generally believed to be worse for their skin, and might also have an impact of growth potential if you’re going for jumbo monsters from stock with the genetic potential for it. (However, sumi tends to develop better in harder water, so it’s not that straightforward a decision.)

The big problem is that running a lower pH is not easy to achieve. You can let the filters ‘consume’ some of your KH in summer and not change enough water to put it back up again, thus reducing your pH a bit. Or invest in RO which is expensive to set up and needs a lot of monitoring and wastes a lot of water.

Thanks Feline,

I didn't know about the tap water test. I will re-test overnight and see how things compare.
I have just checked United Utilties Web site and they have a really in depth breakdown of the water in our area.
I.e. where it is sourced (which in our case is from the River Dee and all the chemical and levels present. (See Attached)

United Utilities - Water Quality Search Results.pdf