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Thread: Stable PH

  1. #1
    Senior Member Rank = Sansai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Stable PH

    I have tested my water every 3-4 days using the API master kit since pond start up middle of last year and this has always shows my PH at what reads between 7.5 -8.0.

    Fingers crossed, touch wood etc, as of yet no crashes, spikes.

    This has been the same on every test for months and so I haven't tried to alter things.

    Also I have read Koi prefer a slightly higher PH anyway ?

    I have just installed Seneye and this is reading the PH as averaging 8.40 but ranging from 8.39 > 8.42.

    Questions is....

    Although on the high side the PH is I would say stable?
    So do I stick with the stable PH or start messing with the water and try to reduce this back to say a PH of 7.5?

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    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 2x Bermuda 10,000 Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aquaforte Midi Sieve, 3 Tier Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator.
    "That'll do, pig. That'll do"

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    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai arceye's Avatar
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    I think I'd be inclined to keep an eye on it seeing as it seems stable, whilst on the higher side it is within bounds, does the API test still show it at the same levels as previously tested?

    One thing I would do is check is PH of source water and see if that is similar, also for anything that could be leeching (cement products etc). Then think about it from there.

  3. #3
    my experience with a new pond was that Ph started quite high at 8.4, so like yours. I was advised that it was a bit high but as the pond matured would drop naturally . I left it and this was exactly what happened and now stable at 7.5.

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    Senior Member Rank = Sansai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arceye View Post
    I think I'd be inclined to keep an eye on it seeing as it seems stable, whilst on the higher side it is within bounds, does the API test still show it at the same levels as previously tested?

    One thing I would do is check is PH of source water and see if that is similar, also for anything that could be leeching (cement products etc). Then think about it from there.
    Hi

    Yes, API still reads the same.
    I do have a trickle in running from a big blue dechlorinator.
    Tap water is ok at 7 but I haven't checked the water direct from the dechlorinator?

    Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 2x Bermuda 10,000 Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aquaforte Midi Sieve, 3 Tier Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator.
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    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai arceye's Avatar
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    If the API test is still the same and you have had no problem to now I'd personally just sit on it and check it remains stable. You dont have any fresh cement products round the pond that could be leeching anything in to raise the PH do you? I'd generally expect your filter to lower the PH over time so it just seems a little odd it is higher than your source.

    Is the KH checking out ok?

    Anyway, main thing in my mind is to be in the acceptable zone which you are, and for the PH to remain stable. I'd keep checking and keep on with usual weekly water changes and trickle in and see how it goes personally.

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    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    Hi ruffers.
    You need to leave your tap water overnight in an open container before checking the pH because it tends to come out of the tap with a high dissolved CO2 level which makes it temporarily more acidic.
    That’s why peoples pond pH always tends to seem higher than the supply.

    Any stable pH between 6.8 and 8.5 is suitable for koi. So being at the high end of that is not a problem so long as it’s not swinging up above 8.5 on a hot summers afternoon when the algae are photosynthesising.

    There are a couple of reasons why some koi keepers prefer to run at a lower pH
    • Ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH so you have less wiggle room to push feeding in the warmer growth months
    • hard water is generally believed to be worse for their skin, and might also have an impact of growth potential if you’re going for jumbo monsters from stock with the genetic potential for it. (However, sumi tends to develop better in harder water, so it’s not that straightforward a decision.)

    The big problem is that running a lower pH is not easy to achieve. You can let the filters ‘consume’ some of your KH in summer and not change enough water to put it back up again, thus reducing your pH a bit. Or invest in RO which is expensive to set up and needs a lot of monitoring and wastes a lot of water.

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  10. #7
    Senior Member Rank = Sansai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    Hi ruffers.
    You need to leave your tap water overnight in an open container before checking the pH because it tends to come out of the tap with a high dissolved CO2 level which makes it temporarily more acidic.
    That’s why peoples pond pH always tends to seem higher than the supply.

    Any stable pH between 6.8 and 8.5 is suitable for koi. So being at the high end of that is not a problem so long as it’s not swinging up above 8.5 on a hot summers afternoon when the algae are photosynthesising.

    There are a couple of reasons why some koi keepers prefer to run at a lower pH
    • Ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH so you have less wiggle room to push feeding in the warmer growth months
    • hard water is generally believed to be worse for their skin, and might also have an impact of growth potential if you’re going for jumbo monsters from stock with the genetic potential for it. (However, sumi tends to develop better in harder water, so it’s not that straightforward a decision.)

    The big problem is that running a lower pH is not easy to achieve. You can let the filters ‘consume’ some of your KH in summer and not change enough water to put it back up again, thus reducing your pH a bit. Or invest in RO which is expensive to set up and needs a lot of monitoring and wastes a lot of water.

    Thanks Feline,

    I didn't know about the tap water test. I will re-test overnight and see how things compare.
    I have just checked United Utilties Web site and they have a really in depth breakdown of the water in our area.
    I.e. where it is sourced (which in our case is from the River Dee and all the chemical and levels present. (See Attached)

    United Utilities - Water Quality Search Results.pdf
    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 2x Bermuda 10,000 Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aquaforte Midi Sieve, 3 Tier Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator.
    "That'll do, pig. That'll do"

 

 

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