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Thread: Optimum water turn over
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29-10-2020, 03:48 PM #1
Optimum water turn over
Good day all,
Just interested in what rates people have their trickle in/out systems working at and following on from that, what would be the optimum / ideal water turn over per week?
Assuming the pond isn't wildly overstocked and water usage isn't a problem i.e. no meter, what would keep water parameters top notch without having any negative affect on fish and bio filters etc?
I know there's plenty of talk around a 10-15% change per week, but on a 1200 gallon pond trying to meter my trickle in water down to 0.01 gallons per minute is bloody hard work ….
Last edited by Ruffers22; 29-10-2020 at 04:16 PM.
EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 1x Bermuda 10,000, 1x Evo-Aqua 20,000 Vari Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aqua-Sieve Midi, 3 Tier Fabricated Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator, Profi Auto Feeder & Seneye Pond Pack.
"That'll do pig. That'll do"
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29-10-2020, 04:24 PM #2
I think this is probably looking at the issue a bit back to front.
The real answer is that you should change how ever much it takes to keep the quality to the standard you decide on (subject to a max of 25% on any one day which should not be exceeded).
Water changes are done for several reasons, which may or may not apply to your pond at any given time.
- controlling ammonia/nitrite spikes
- diluting out filtration ‘end products’ such as nitrate which can’t be removed otherwise in standard bio filtration
- diluting out phosphate which can build up in heavy feeding and cause green water
- diluting out pheromones secreted by the fish that can inhibit growth and sometimes spawning
- keeping the TDS level in the pond down (which is a kind of overall indication of pollutants building up)
For many people changing 10-15% per week over winter and 25% per week in the summer comes somewhere near to meeting those aims. But every pond and stock are different.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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29-10-2020, 05:31 PM #3
Thanks for the reply Feline.
I know what you mean about being back to front. Just sounded correct in my head when I composed the thread
I was just trying to get some ball park figures, which you have kindly provided.
I have my trickle in operation, but need to fit a flow valve in line to provide a better measured way of slowing the flow down to get the 10% per week in winter figure.
I have mine controlled before entering the dechlorinator using the outside tap, which isn't ideal and very hard to get a minute constant flow.
I presume it would be better to have a full flow into the cylinder and then meter the water exiting back to the pond?
I have just ordered some irrigation pipework and fittings to drop down from 15mm hozelock type fittings down to 13mm irrigation size pipe which includes this flow valve, which I'm hoping will sort the flow issue.
EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 1x Bermuda 10,000, 1x Evo-Aqua 20,000 Vari Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aqua-Sieve Midi, 3 Tier Fabricated Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator, Profi Auto Feeder & Seneye Pond Pack.
"That'll do pig. That'll do"
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29-10-2020, 06:04 PM #4
Just be careful your dechlorinator units don’t leak when putunder constant mains pressure.
I run my top up like that- the valve is after the big blue and canisters and mains tap always kept fully on.
You might need to add some jubilee clips to the hozelock stuff with prongs like you show above because the pressure could blow the connection apart and things get very wet before you discover it. I have stainless jubilees on everything like that in my mains pressure part of the setup as have had blow-offs in the past2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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02-11-2020, 04:04 PM #5
on my system as it fed from an underground hose . I bought some hosepipe connectors that dont allow water through if it disconnects from whatever it is connected too. That way my underground multibay area would not fill up if it came off my 3 stage filter. which runs first before entering the multibay
JimLast edited by JimJones; 02-11-2020 at 04:06 PM.
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06-11-2020, 12:13 PM #6
So... sorry to hi-jack this thread, but I am considering doing this, where do you guys have/plan to put your feed coming in and trickling out from ??
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06-11-2020, 12:39 PM #7
My trickle in is a pipe into the bottom of my lower shower tray (i.e. the end of the pipe is poked down through the media so it doesn’t let the water run onto the media itself).
Overflow out is a pipe inside my skimmer set to chosen pond level.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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06-11-2020, 09:25 PM #8
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07-11-2020, 07:49 AM #9
I trickle in to my top pond. And trickle out the nexus waste pipe. As that has to be open for the draco drop in for washes. Waste to sewers.
Drilled 2 holes into waste tray. For trickle out waste tray.
1st photo valve on nexus open for waste.
2nd photo drill hole with screw drive in hole
One each side.
Fred
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07-11-2020, 02:49 PM #10
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07-11-2020, 03:07 PM #11
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07-11-2020, 09:35 PM #12
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07-11-2020, 09:36 PM #13
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07-11-2020, 09:38 PM #14
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08-11-2020, 06:27 AM #15
How I worked it out. If you have a inwall skimmer. That is my water hight of the pond. So my filters are lined up with the pond water hight. Of the skimmer. 2 seperate lines. So when I put the drop in draco drum in. That then became my new water hight. At the waste tray. Half way up the waste tray. So once the water level was flowing good on my skimmer line. I set the draco drop in. To that level. You can raise and lower the drop
In up and down lol. The old drum trickled out on it's own. The new drum. The waste tray was different. So I had to drill holes in the waste side as in photos. I went from small holes. To larger to get the overflow I needed for my trickle in speed. I use st for chlorine. tea spoon full every 3 days. Thrown in neat in my top pond. I also have
3 pod dechlorinator. But I don t trust it.
Fred
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08-11-2020, 11:46 PM #16
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09-11-2020, 01:31 PM #17
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09-11-2020, 02:04 PM #18
Suppose it is how bad the winter is mate.
And how well you are insulated on the pipeline or hose pipe. I have trickled in and out for 30 years and never had a frozen hosepipe or pipeline. Flowing water is hard to freeze up. When continuously running. In this country. That's not to say it could nt happen. Our winters have been quite mild.
The last 20 years or so.
Fred
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09-11-2020, 02:44 PM #19
You need to be careful your waterproof sockets don't freeze over Fred or are the lids frozen solid now?
At least there's no chance of my QT freezing as it's still not finished I thought I'd get in there first with that one
But on a serious note, if you're in an open area you might get lower temperatures caused by wind chill? Not sure how much of an effect that would have on the pipes freezing?
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09-11-2020, 04:36 PM #20
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Frimley Koi keeper Thanked / Liked this Post
The Daily pond temp thread
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