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  1. #1
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Optimum water turn over

    Good day all,

    Just interested in what rates people have their trickle in/out systems working at and following on from that, what would be the optimum / ideal water turn over per week?

    Assuming the pond isn't wildly overstocked and water usage isn't a problem i.e. no meter, what would keep water parameters top notch without having any negative affect on fish and bio filters etc?

    I know there's plenty of talk around a 10-15% change per week, but on a 1200 gallon pond trying to meter my trickle in water down to 0.01 gallons per minute is bloody hard work …
    .


    Last edited by Ruffers22; 29-10-2020 at 04:16 PM.
    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 1x Bermuda 10,000, 1x Evo-Aqua 20,000 Vari Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aqua-Sieve Midi, 3 Tier Fabricated Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator, Profi Auto Feeder & Seneye Pond Pack.
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  2. #2
    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    I think this is probably looking at the issue a bit back to front.
    The real answer is that you should change how ever much it takes to keep the quality to the standard you decide on (subject to a max of 25% on any one day which should not be exceeded).

    Water changes are done for several reasons, which may or may not apply to your pond at any given time.

    - controlling ammonia/nitrite spikes
    - diluting out filtration ‘end products’ such as nitrate which can’t be removed otherwise in standard bio filtration
    - diluting out phosphate which can build up in heavy feeding and cause green water
    - diluting out pheromones secreted by the fish that can inhibit growth and sometimes spawning
    - keeping the TDS level in the pond down (which is a kind of overall indication of pollutants building up)

    For many people changing 10-15% per week over winter and 25% per week in the summer comes somewhere near to meeting those aims. But every pond and stock are different.

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Ruffers22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    I think this is probably looking at the issue a bit back to front.
    The real answer is that you should change how ever much it takes to keep the quality to the standard you decide on (subject to a max of 25% on any one day which should not be exceeded).

    Water changes are done for several reasons, which may or may not apply to your pond at any given time.

    - controlling ammonia/nitrite spikes
    - diluting out filtration ‘end products’ such as nitrate which can’t be removed otherwise in standard bio filtration
    - diluting out phosphate which can build up in heavy feeding and cause green water
    - diluting out pheromones secreted by the fish that can inhibit growth and sometimes spawning
    - keeping the TDS level in the pond down (which is a kind of overall indication of pollutants building up)

    For many people changing 10-15% per week over winter and 25% per week in the summer comes somewhere near to meeting those aims. But every pond and stock are different.
    Thanks for the reply Feline.
    I know what you mean about being back to front. Just sounded correct in my head when I composed the thread

    I was just trying to get some ball park figures, which you have kindly provided.
    I have my trickle in operation, but need to fit a flow valve in line to provide a better measured way of slowing the flow down to get the 10% per week in winter figure.
    I have mine controlled before entering the dechlorinator using the outside tap, which isn't ideal and very hard to get a minute constant flow.
    I presume it would be better to have a full flow into the cylinder and then meter the water exiting back to the pond?

    I have just ordered some irrigation pipework and fittings to drop down from 15mm hozelock type fittings down to 13mm irrigation size pipe which includes this flow valve, which I'm hoping will sort the flow issue.
    EZ-pond 1200i Semi-Raised Pond, Spin-drifter BD, Oase Aquaskim, Oase Proficlear Compact Gravity, 1x Bermuda 10,000, 1x Evo-Aqua 20,000 Vari Wi-fi Pumps, 2x Evo-Aqua 70L Air Pumps , Evo-Aqua 55w UV, Aqua-Sieve Midi, 3 Tier Fabricated Stainless Shower, Hydro-Pro Z7 Heat Pump, 48" Big Blue De-chlorinator, Profi Auto Feeder & Seneye Pond Pack.
    "That'll do pig. That'll do"

  5. #4
    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    Just be careful your dechlorinator units don’t leak when putunder constant mains pressure.
    I run my top up like that- the valve is after the big blue and canisters and mains tap always kept fully on.

    You might need to add some jubilee clips to the hozelock stuff with prongs like you show above because the pressure could blow the connection apart and things get very wet before you discover it. I have stainless jubilees on everything like that in my mains pressure part of the setup as have had blow-offs in the past

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    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai JimJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    Just be careful your dechlorinator units don’t leak when putunder constant mains pressure.
    I run my top up like that- the valve is after the big blue and canisters and mains tap always kept fully on.

    You might need to add some jubilee clips to the hozelock stuff with prongs like you show above because the pressure could blow the connection apart and things get very wet before you discover it. I have stainless jubilees on everything like that in my mains pressure part of the setup as have had blow-offs in the past

    on my system as it fed from an underground hose . I bought some hosepipe connectors that dont allow water through if it disconnects from whatever it is connected too. That way my underground multibay area would not fill up if it came off my 3 stage filter. which runs first before entering the multibay


    Jim
    Last edited by JimJones; 02-11-2020 at 04:06 PM.

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    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    So... sorry to hi-jack this thread, but I am considering doing this, where do you guys have/plan to put your feed coming in and trickling out from ??

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    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    My trickle in is a pipe into the bottom of my lower shower tray (i.e. the end of the pipe is poked down through the media so it doesn’t let the water run onto the media itself).
    Overflow out is a pipe inside my skimmer set to chosen pond level.

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  12. #8
    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    My trickle in is a pipe into the bottom of my lower shower tray (i.e. the end of the pipe is poked down through the media so it doesn’t let the water run onto the media itself).
    Overflow out is a pipe inside my skimmer set to chosen pond level.
    Thank you... I was thinking of maybe into my Bio but slightly concerned the 2' won't draw the water out quick enough, I will have to experiment a little:

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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    I trickle in to my top pond. And trickle out the nexus waste pipe. As that has to be open for the draco drop in for washes. Waste to sewers.
    Drilled 2 holes into waste tray. For trickle out waste tray.
    1st photo valve on nexus open for waste.
    2nd photo drill hole with screw drive in hole
    One each side.
    Fred

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai jphamill's Avatar
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    And remember to test your trickle in for chlorine regardless of your dechlorinator.


    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    Just be careful your dechlorinator units don’t leak when putunder constant mains pressure.
    I run my top up like that- the valve is after the big blue and canisters and mains tap always kept fully on.

    You might need to add some jubilee clips to the hozelock stuff with prongs like you show above because the pressure could blow the connection apart and things get very wet before you discover it. I have stainless jubilees on everything like that in my mains pressure part of the setup as have had blow-offs in the past

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    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai jphamill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbs View Post
    So... sorry to hi-jack this thread, but I am considering doing this, where do you guys have/plan to put your feed coming in and trickling out from ??

    MIne is into the nexus inner chamber and the trickle out is also in the nexus inflow at the top of the riser. 2 brass elbows and a short piece of pipe perpendicular to the water so you can adjust it by angling it up or down.

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    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddyboy View Post
    I trickle in to my top pond. And trickle out the nexus waste pipe. As that has to be open for the draco drop in for washes. Waste to sewers.
    Drilled 2 holes into waste tray. For trickle out waste tray.
    1st photo valve on nexus open for waste.
    2nd photo drill hole with screw drive in hole
    One each side.
    Fred

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    Looks a good idea Fred, how did youbwork out the trickle out, keep trying different size holes ??

    Maybe I could do something like leaving a drain ball valve open slightly Optimum water turn over

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    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jphamill View Post
    And remember to test your trickle in for chlorine regardless of your dechlorinator.
    Good point, I need to change mine soon to a better one

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    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jphamill View Post
    MIne is into the nexus inner chamber and the trickle out is also in the nexus inflow at the top of the riser. 2 brass elbows and a short piece of pipe perpendicular to the water so you can adjust it by angling it up or down.
    Cool, another good idea, food for thought

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  26. #15
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbs View Post
    Looks a good idea Fred, how did youbwork out the trickle out, keep trying different size holes ??

    Maybe I could do something like leaving a drain ball valve open slightly Optimum water turn over
    How I worked it out. If you have a inwall skimmer. That is my water hight of the pond. So my filters are lined up with the pond water hight. Of the skimmer. 2 seperate lines. So when I put the drop in draco drum in. That then became my new water hight. At the waste tray. Half way up the waste tray. So once the water level was flowing good on my skimmer line. I set the draco drop in. To that level. You can raise and lower the drop
    In up and down lol. The old drum trickled out on it's own. The new drum. The waste tray was different. So I had to drill holes in the waste side as in photos. I went from small holes. To larger to get the overflow I needed for my trickle in speed. I use st for chlorine. tea spoon full every 3 days. Thrown in neat in my top pond. I also have
    3 pod dechlorinator. But I don t trust it.
    Fred

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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  28. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    My trickle in is a pipe into the bottom of my lower shower tray (i.e. the end of the pipe is poked down through the media so it doesn’t let the water run onto the media itself).
    Overflow out is a pipe inside my skimmer set to chosen pond level.

    How do you prevent the hose pipe from freezing in winter when the water is just ‘trickling in’?
    Thank you

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  30. #17
    Senior Member Rank = Mature Champion dbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddyboy View Post
    How I worked it out. If you have a inwall skimmer. That is my water hight of the pond. So my filters are lined up with the pond water hight. Of the skimmer. 2 seperate lines. So when I put the drop in draco drum in. That then became my new water hight. At the waste tray. Half way up the waste tray. So once the water level was flowing good on my skimmer line. I set the draco drop in. To that level. You can raise and lower the drop
    In up and down lol. The old drum trickled out on it's own. The new drum. The waste tray was different. So I had to drill holes in the waste side as in photos. I went from small holes. To larger to get the overflow I needed for my trickle in speed. I use st for chlorine. tea spoon full every 3 days. Thrown in neat in my top pond. I also have
    3 pod dechlorinator. But I don t trust it.
    Fred

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    Nice one, I really appreciate the detailed reply, thank you Fred

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  32. #18
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelAndrew View Post
    How do you prevent the hose pipe from freezing in winter when the water is just ‘trickling in’?
    Thank you
    Suppose it is how bad the winter is mate.
    And how well you are insulated on the pipeline or hose pipe. I have trickled in and out for 30 years and never had a frozen hosepipe or pipeline. Flowing water is hard to freeze up. When continuously running. In this country. That's not to say it could nt happen. Our winters have been quite mild.
    The last 20 years or so.
    Fred

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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  34. #19
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion Frimley Koi keeper's Avatar
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    You need to be careful your waterproof sockets don't freeze over Fred or are the lids frozen solid now?

    At least there's no chance of my QT freezing as it's still not finished I thought I'd get in there first with that one

    But on a serious note, if you're in an open area you might get lower temperatures caused by wind chill? Not sure how much of an effect that would have on the pipes freezing?

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  36. #20
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frimley Koi keeper View Post
    You need to be careful your waterproof sockets don't freeze over Fred or are the lids frozen solid now?

    At least there's no chance of my QT freezing as it's still not finished I thought I'd get in there first with that one

    But on a serious note, if you're in an open area you might get lower temperatures caused by wind chill? Not sure how much of an effect that would have on the pipes freezing?
    not worried about sockets freezing lol heaters keep them warm you ok mate. hope your good. be safr lol
    fred

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