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Thread: Fiberglass
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04-10-2016, 01:05 PM #41
Micro seal t20 is what you want for bonding fibreglass to pvc
Hope this helps anyone
Any questions just ask, I will try to help anyway I can
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06-08-2018, 07:18 PM #42
Hi all, great instructions not sure I’m brave enough to attempt. Anyone know of anyone Shropshire way that could help with a crack that’s appeared in my fibreglass. It’s too low to go through the filters now 🤨
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04-09-2018, 12:30 AM #43
Ive recently finished glassing mine its my second ,,, i have some materials i need to get rid off
25 kilo resin
large box of pu foam insulation
and a large roll off tissue..45 mtrs used in last stage of glassing for better finish
100 pound im in worcester ..can meet near
thanks Sean
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06-09-2018, 01:49 PM #44
Anyone got any tips for finding leaks in fibreglass? I have a raised blocked pond, internally fibre glassed, which has a small leak. I can see the water soaking though the block to the outside, so i know roughly the area. There were some small pin holes in the gel, so i keyed it up and re top coated a large area around the area of the leak. Filled it up yesterday and still no change, looks fine internally
cheers
George
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06-09-2018, 02:38 PM #45
you've done the right thing , but finding pinholes on the sides are difficult..... if they were on the bottom you will find tiny damp spots where the water pushes through ,on sides the water drains away so does not show as clearly.I would extend the area a fair bit and do the same again ...phil
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06-09-2018, 05:36 PM #46
Thanks Phil. I've dug down today and it looks as though it's coming out between the slab and the blocks, still can't figure out where from though. It's not good for morale!
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26-09-2018, 07:05 PM #47
A tip in tracing pinholes on walls or floors.
Drain the pond and take a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to the suspect area. This should draw any water the pinholes let through out fron behind the fibreglass. Hold the end of the vacuum hose at an angle and study it closely to see if you can draw water out.
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26-09-2018, 08:33 PM #48
Thanks for a very useful thread !
I`m thinking of upgrading my plant filter and replacing the box welded liner and wood construction , with brick and fibreglass .
As its only a few metres , I`ll probably have a go myself . I got my pond done professionally , and consider it money well spent .Colin
2500 Gallon Fibreglass Pond
Draco Solum 16 , 400l Bio Chamber
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27-09-2018, 09:06 AM #49
Thanks Matt, found the leak which turned out to be the plastic welds on the BD, very frustrating. The plastic welds on my skimmer also look like they were done by a 5 yr old but seem to be holding
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29-09-2018, 10:18 AM #50
So how did you sort the welds out ? Did you have to replace the b/d
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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29-09-2018, 01:39 PM #51
No it would have been a lot of unheaval to replace it. I gave all the welds a dollop of CT1. Used to swear by sikaflex but it's never been the same since they changed the recipe
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06-06-2020, 04:50 PM #52
QQ: Can you fibreglass against a wood former (with insulation in place) then move it into position against blockwork?
The design I have has a chamber for filtration at the back - it's about 93cm long, about 60cm wide and 1.75m deep:
Screenshot 2020-06-06 at 16.36.26.png
I was thinking of doing a wood sheet former with the insulation taped up, then fibreglassing inside in two halves (one 75cm and one 1m) move into position and fibreglass the join before flow coating. The issue is I will not have enough space to fibreglass in position due to the depth (also it becomes a safety risk). Once in position and flow coated, continue with the blockwork.
I have a garage next to the pond that I can use as a glass up location for the halves.
Just thinking if there is an easier way - an alternative is don't build a wall - fibreglass as one complete pond and instead use a perspex sheet in position. It only has to separate the two areas and can be sealed with sealant to the a rebate in the fibreglass.
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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12-06-2020, 06:06 PM #53
Yes that would work.
2660 Gallons. 4" Bottom Drain and Skimmer. Draco Solum 16 Drum. Anoxic Filtration. Air lift returns.
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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26-06-2020, 09:34 PM #54
Any experiencing fibreglassing onto existing fibreglass that's had a top protective coat?
My Dad and I have extended our existing pond (about 8 inch higher and 3-4 ft longer), it was originally fibreglassed around 20+ years ago by my dad and has lasted very well. We're hoping that we can just sand down the edges and do some overlap with marine sealant on the joint and then do a top coat over the whole pond. thoughts?
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27-06-2020, 09:21 AM #55
I'm no expert jack, but for the join you'd need to sand/grind back to the existing fibreglass, wipe down with acetone then layup your new stuff over your edges. Not sure why you'd need the sealant unless it's for glassing into any fixtures e.g. skimmer, pond returns or bottom drain.
In terms of flow coat, I think you'd need to sand/grind down your entire existing flow coat, wipe down with acetone, then put the new flow coat on. Although I'm sure some more experienced than me can set you straight if what I've said is wrong.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk13,000L fibreglassed raised pond with window
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27-06-2020, 07:41 PM #56
Jack, as said, you will need to sand all the topcoat off atleast a 300mm strip (the more the better) around any structural join. So in your case, around the top to extend it upwards and around the bit you are extending sideways (on this bit I would sand back about 600mm strip). Then you wipe well woth acetone to a) clean it and b) this makes the surface sticky and ready to bond to the new resin. That will bond as good as new, no need for any sealant.
Once the top coat is on, it will look good as new too.2660 Gallons. 4" Bottom Drain and Skimmer. Draco Solum 16 Drum. Anoxic Filtration. Air lift returns.
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06-08-2020, 11:34 AM #57
Hi All
my first post
thanks for the info.
where do you all purchase your equipment from? what resin etc?
want to have a go at a grow on.
thanks in advance.
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