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Thread: Nexus 200/210

  1. #1

    Nexus 200/210

    I am just about to set up a nexus 200, I am putting an eazy upgrade into it , couple of questions really, is it worth adding the overflow kit? it has used k1 with it , should I use new or p/p this and reuse ? finally how long should it take to mature ?
    Thanks
    Jed



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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Hi mate,

    I've only ever had one with an overflow, and its worth it in my opinion. My Nexus was getting blocked in less than 3 days this year and without the overflow I'd have run the pump dry. Last year when feeding less it didn't come close to blocking.

    If you are low stocked, only feeding lightly and in a position to check the Nexus daily during summer then the overflow probably isn't necessary.


    If you don't know the history of the K1 then yes, I'd recommend PPing it and the Nexus as a whole. Last thing you want to do is introduce parasites and critters to your pond.

    As for how long it will take to mature.... differs from pond to pond. Anything from 6 weeks to a year to get on top of parameters and 2 years for it to properly mature.
    Took 9 Months for me to get nitrites down to a level that wasn't going to kill my Koi. Some people manage it in 6-8 weeks. Every pond seems to be different.

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    Senior Member Rank = Kyusai Sim's Avatar
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    Yes as rs says fit the overflow, it's easier to do it now.
    Also if its standard k1 I would put it in the main chamber after pp ing it and put micro k1 in the eazy.

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  6. #4

    Advice

    Thank you for sharing your knowledge

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  8. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    Hi mate,

    I've only ever had one with an overflow, and its worth it in my opinion. My Nexus was getting blocked in less than 3 days this year and without the overflow I'd have run the pump dry. Last year when feeding less it didn't come close to blocking.

    If you are low stocked, only feeding lightly and in a position to check the Nexus daily during summer then the overflow probably isn't necessary.


    If you don't know the history of the K1 then yes, I'd recommend PPing it and the Nexus as a whole. Last thing you want to do is introduce parasites and critters to your pond.

    As for how long it will take to mature.... differs from pond to pond. Anything from 6 weeks to a year to get on top of parameters and 2 years for it to properly mature.
    Took 9 Months for me to get nitrites down to a level that wasn't going to kill my Koi. Some people manage it in 6-8 weeks. Every pond seems to be different.
    Hello mate just read this thread. You said it took 9 months till your filter matured enough to be safe for your koi, so how was the koi safe in the time then? Was you using your new filter along side a mature old one, also is that something you would recommend running both together until maturity on new one is met? Another question is when enlarging pond if you fill up the new pond with fresh water put through 3 stage declorinater and add a mature filter does that make the new pond safe to move your koi into or should you cycle it for a few days first? Cheers mate


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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    If you have a mature filter then run that side by side with your new one for a few Months.

    My Nexus dealt with Ammonia quite quickly but mine took an absolute age to deal with Nitrites. Don't know why, I was just unlucky. The problem was so bad I added 0.1% salt to the pond to keep the Koi alive. (Salt reduces the effects of nitrite). My nitrite level was as high as 2 mg/l for Months.

    Once the Nexus is fully mature it becomes bullet proof, and the plastic bio media needs no maintenance whatsoever. (You only clean the plastic media in the Eazy section as this is the part that filters out solids, and its a simple "dry-hands" job).

    If you have a mature filter then yes you can move your Koi straight in. If you don't you risk the mature filter dying off because there's nothing to feed it.

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  11. #7
    Ahhh perfect few queries answered there cheers mate! I am struggling to get my amonia below 0.2 but Iv been reading a book that says a pond with fish will never have a 0 amonia as the fish release amonia through there gills. Yet on the test kits it has a zero with a tick beside it which is what I’m aiming for but can’t seem to achieve. Is it unachievable as I have fish stock!


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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    With the standard test kits you should definitely be achieving 0 ammonia, and a constant 0.2 reading indicates your bio media is insufficient.

    There will always be a small level of ammonia but it should be too small for shop bought test kits to register.

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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Can I just say Charco when topping up with water dont rely on the 3 stage dechlorinater,use a suitable dechlorinater ie sodium thiosulphate.
    John

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  16. #10

    Nexus 200/210

    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    With the standard test kits you should definitely be achieving 0 ammonia, and a constant 0.2 reading indicates your bio media is insufficient.

    There will always be a small level of ammonia but it should be too small for shop bought test kits to register.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Right cheers mate at least i know now as I was unsure weather to worry after that I read. As you guys might member when you first started with these test kits your eyes can almost play tricks on ya! I go walking round in different lights to see if it does have a tinge of green or is it me! My filter is 6 months old does this mean it may not be fully matured? Like what you was saying yesterday when you first got your nexus you had issues? I have been adding in small handful of aqua bio balls to the filter on cleans and every three days roughly I got bucket of them so thought it can’t hurt. So moving forward should I slow down on feed or fast them so the filter can catch up! I done a test just now and looks to me it’s 0.2 again il attach a pic. Thanks again IMG_8746.JPG


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    Last edited by charco123; 04-10-2019 at 03:33 PM.

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  18. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    Can I just say Charco when topping up with water dont rely on the 3 stage dechlorinater,use a suitable dechlorinater ie sodium thiosulphate.
    So John are you saying not to use the three stage declorinator at all? Or to back it up with a liquid version also?


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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Gosai RudeDogg1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charco123 View Post
    So John are you saying not to use the three stage declorinator at all? Or to back it up with a liquid version also?


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    There is nowt wrong with a decent 3 stage I think that’s abit of a sweeping statement.

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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charco123 View Post
    So John are you saying not to use the three stage declorinator at all? Or to back it up with a liquid version also?


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    Carry on useing it by all means but dont rely on it to remove chlorine, better to use the liquid as well but most on here use sodium thiosulphate as per Manky Sanky site,cheap to buy as 1 kg for £6 lasts over a year.
    John

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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charco123 View Post
    Right cheers John at least i know now as I was unsure weather to worry after that I read. As you guys might member when you first started with these test kits your eyes can almost play tricks on ya! I go walking round in different lights to see if it does have a tinge of green or is it me! My filter is 6 months old does this mean it may not be fully matured? Like what you was saying yesterday when you first got your nexus you had issues? I have been adding in small handful of aqua bio balls to the filter on cleans and every three days roughly I got bucket of them so thought it can’t hurt. So moving forward should I slow down on feed or fast them so the filter can catch up! I done a test just now and looks to me it’s 0.2 again il attach a pic. Thanks again IMG_8746.JPG


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    Your not the only one,I sometimes ask the Mrs what colour it is.
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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charco123 View Post
    Right cheers mate at least i know now as I was unsure weather to worry after that I read. As you guys might member when you first started with these test kits your eyes can almost play tricks on ya! I go walking round in different lights to see if it does have a tinge of green or is it me! My filter is 6 months old does this mean it may not be fully matured? Like what you was saying yesterday when you first got your nexus you had issues? I have been adding in small handful of aqua bio balls to the filter on cleans and every three days roughly I got bucket of them so thought it can’t hurt. So moving forward should I slow down on feed or fast them so the filter can catch up! I done a test just now and looks to me it’s 0.2 again il attach a pic. Thanks again IMG_8746.JPG


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    Definitely looks like 0.2 to me also.

    Have a look at the chart on this page to whether that reading is particularly bad in your set-up.

    My Koi would be flashing at 0.25 in my water.

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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    Can I just say Charco when topping up with water dont rely on the 3 stage dechlorinater,use a suitable dechlorinater ie sodium thiosulphate.
    Bear in mind that when people get a chlorine reading after their 3 stage dechlorinator that it's possible the reading is caused by chloramine which the 3 stage doesn't remove unless you buy special cartridges specifically for chloramine.

    If you are certain you've no chloramine and still getting a chlorine reading then that would confirm the 3-stage isn't removing it.

    Only way to be sure is to buy DPD4 tablets and test..... which to be honest I've never done, I just add some ST with each water change.

    For ST, buy some Sodium Thiosulphate off eBay for around a fiver for 500 grams, get a 500 ml bottle, add 65 grams of ST crystals and 500ml of hot water from recently boiled kettle, and that will last you ages.

    Dosage for those measurements would be 10ml for every 450 litres / 100 gallons.

    As I use a dechlorinator I only add around 10ml for every 1500 litre water change, just in case the 3 pod isn't doing its job 100%.

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  29. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    Definitely looks like 0.2 to me also.

    Have a look at the chart on this page to whether that reading is particularly bad in your set-up.

    My Koi would be flashing at 0.25 in my water.
    What chart is that your referring to mate. What action would you advise I take. I’m defiantly not over feeding but you think I should fast them so filter catches up! Ta RS


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    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion RS2OOO's Avatar
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    Sorry mate, forgot to post the link.

    The chart on this page:

    Ammonia

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  33. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by RS2OOO View Post
    Sorry mate, forgot to post the link.

    The chart on this page:

    Ammonia
    Cheers mate il have a read of this later Nexus 200/210


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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion Frimley Koi keeper's Avatar
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    Just looked at the 2 extremes on that chart

    If I am reading it correctly with a PH of 7 at 10 degrees it gives you an acceptable reading of 10.5 for Ammonia and with a PH of 8.6 at 30 degrees it gives you an acceptable reading of 0.09 for Ammonia!!!

    OK the readings are maximums not figures to aim for specially an Ammonia reading of 10.5 as what colour would your test kit show at that sort of reading? I don't think charts have WTF !!! on the colour codes do they? More likely to have RIP or get digging on them.

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