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Thread: Which dechlorinator
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04-11-2015, 02:11 PM #1
Which dechlorinator
Hi all,
I am happily trickling in around 2% of water per day using a staging tank (100 litre compact water butt) in my workshop which is next to my Koi pond. This is fed via an inlet valve at the top, and another at the base, so I can add a known amount of water. Inside I have an airstone in the tank diverted off of my main pond air pump, which I use to effectively bubble off chlorine for a day, then open the outlet valve which trickles into the pond over 30 mins. I stop off the input so no new water can enter at this point.
Currently this is a manual process daily. I have the necessary 2 solenoids and a z-wave module to control this process on a timer which I will fit soon to automate this.
I have tested the water going in and out, and there is zero chlorine once its been bubbled for even 8 hours or so. However, I am aware that other stuff like Chloramine and heavy metals will still be present, all sensitive for Koi, so I want to also add an in-line dechlorinator (probably wont need the air then).
Any recommendations for a good dechlorinator that will treat as many nasties in the water for a reasonable price?
So far I have found:
-Evolution Aqua - Around £60
-www.waterfilterman.co.uk - Around £30
Cheers,
Tim
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04-11-2015, 03:23 PM #2
Hi Tim,i have always used the EA inline dechlorinators .I change 10% [300gal] a week in the winter and 15% in the summer.I have 2x12in dechlorinators which i replace every spring.With a slow trickle i get a zero chlorine reading,Bob.
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04-11-2015, 03:32 PM #3
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04-11-2015, 05:00 PM #4
3 x 20" purifier from water filterman about £68 just renew the cartridges every 6 months or so. Change 20-30% each week. Also use the Ea but can't change the carbon so have to renew the whole unit annually.
20" renew are £18 for all 3. 5 micron, carbon and resin block gets rid of 99% of cack in tap water.
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Timl Thanked / Liked this Post
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04-11-2015, 06:03 PM #5
Hi Tim
i trickle 10% per week (400 gallons pw) at the moment through a 30" EA dechlorinator. In summer this increases to around 600 gallons pw. To be honest I like the ease of using this canister and the disposable aspect. Bigger size means u can flow a little quicker. Previously I used a big blue canister and refilled with carbon annually, but so far the EA is quite economical for my needs. Changed way before the supposed flow maximum (76k gallons!) normally every 14 months.
Cheers
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Timl Thanked / Liked this Post
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05-11-2015, 07:06 AM #6
Hi Tim.
I change around 10-15% a week in the winter months and around 25% a week in the summer months, through a 3 pod de-chlorinator but also add Sodium Thiosulphate just for piece of mind if any contamanants do get through the pod.1500 gl in ground pond
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Timl Thanked / Liked this Post
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05-11-2015, 12:43 PM #7
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Right, so, the message i typed out earlier, where it kept saying auto-saved...where is that now? I haven't navigated away from the page yet the text is gone. Where has it auto-saved to?
I'm not typing it all out again, sorry.
In short....EA do not make the purifiers themselves.
The following images are screenshots of a video of me testing the output from an EA Purifier 6 weeks after purchasing it.
You can make your own mind up as to how good they are....
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05-11-2015, 12:47 PM #8
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No matter which way round i upload them, it puts them the wrong way round in the message. Why have they made this for more difficult to use?
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05-11-2015, 12:59 PM #9
Thanks all for your replies,
That gives me a good background again.
So, Andre, I cant see a great deal on the pics, I feel your pain on the posting
Are you saying that your tests found that the EA inline was not effective after 6 weeks?
How much water had passed through it in this time roughly?
Cheers,
Tim
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05-11-2015, 03:09 PM #10
I stopped using mine and now just use sodium thiosulphate. Won't be getting another.
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05-11-2015, 09:06 PM #11
I have a three pod but to be honest their so hit and miss because the flow can't be more than a literal trickle and the canisters are exhausted very quickly and become useless without indication.
like others I use sodium thiosulphate because in crystal form it costs next to nothing, it's safe and I can run the tap at full blast.
I still use the three pod but it's more out of habit than anything.Alias PWNN - Steve
My favourite and recommended web site is......
http://www.mankysanke.co.uk/
http://www.freewebs.com/koikoi/
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06-11-2015, 01:14 AM #12
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Same here I use two 10" 3 pod units inline first pod 5micron pre filter, next 4 activated carbon and last carbon block. As said though they can be hit and miss if too much flow through them. I also have st at hand if need to top up quickly.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIts always a work in progress
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06-11-2015, 10:13 AM #13
All,
Thanks for the info. Seems like 3 Pod is the way to go generally. I will probably look at a 3 stage as seems to be the norm (and a pretty good price), and upgrade the middle GAC one for a Cholramine reducing one. I am staging my water into the water butt before its daily empty, so hopefully I wont have issues with flow, as I wont be worried if it takes ages to fill.
Interesting about the sodium thiosulphate though. How does this work, as it seems most people trickle straight in, so do you treat the whole pond?
Cheers,
Tim
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06-11-2015, 11:53 AM #14
I have a 3 pod system but had to take it off the main pond and stick it on the QT because it just can't cope with the flow rates I use when I top up after a filter clean every 2 days. If all you're doing is a VERY slow trickle in and trickle out then the 3 pod can work. You need to test the outflow for chlorine very regularly though. I find the cartridges don't last anywhere near as long as we are told they will.
I have the medium sized big blue charcoal unit on my main pond now which is much better for being able to turn the flow up for a faster refill without 'passing' chlorine.
Which ever filter you buy- it's a good idea to get some DPD4 tablets and run some tests on it at different flow rates to find out how fast you can go before it leaks chlorine. It is a woefully slow rate on a 3 pod 10" system.
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07-11-2015, 09:11 PM #15
Just a thought on the DPD4 tablets, aren't the considerably more expensive than a complete pond treatment with ST?
I'm just thinking why bother testing for chlorine when using a dose of sodium thiosulphate is known to work and will be cheaper than actually testing for chlorine.
I haven't worked it out but I doubt if ST costs more than 1p per 2000 gallons when bought in crystal form.
Anyone fancy working out how much crystal ST costs per 1000 gallons, think I paid £7 for 1kg and the dose rate in solution is 125g per 1lt then 10ml per 100 gallons.
What idiot made us use metric when most of us still talk in gallons.Alias PWNN - Steve
My favourite and recommended web site is......
http://www.mankysanke.co.uk/
http://www.freewebs.com/koikoi/
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08-11-2015, 11:10 AM #16
Using ST only is an option if you use large top ups. However if you want to trickle in- trickle out then working out a dose of St and then constantly adding it is not ideal.
I also want to filter out some of the heavy metals that might be present in the tap water- so charcoal is a better option.
Compared to my monthly water bill (metered) the cost of the DPD4 tabs is insignificant
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