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Thread: Diy shower

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by andikoi View Post
    id drill 3 lines of holes 1 bottom and and 1 either side at a 45 degree ,make the bottom holes smaller than the side ones,maybe 2mm in middle and 5mm in each side,you could also altenate the holes,so the ones in middle dont line up with ones on side,andi
    Would 2mm not be a bit small Andi?

    Not saying your wrong as you know more about them that I do obviously.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    Take the link pipe out and have 2 separate pipes and try that first.
    Drill a hole in the top of each end and water will come out. Keep adding holes in the spray bar until no water comes out of the top hole then you have your limiting flow.
    I may be wrong, I’ve been in the sunshine a long time today already Diy shower


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Actually that would make sense and take some of the guesswork out of the equation.

    Nice thinking Mr Big - grab yourself another beer lol

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  4. #43
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    on the 4" john,id say 20 holes along each line,but it also depends what pump your using,a 5000lph isnt going to do what a 15000lph can,if you get me,frim i said the 2mm holes as this will mean the water cant get out as easy and will force it to rais inside pipe to the 5mm ones or even 3 or 4mm,andi

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  6. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by andikoi View Post
    on the 4" john,id say 20 holes along each line,but it also depends what pump your using,a 5000lph isnt going to do what a 15000lph can,if you get me,frim i said the 2mm holes as this will mean the water cant get out as easy and will force it to rais inside pipe to the 5mm ones or even 3 or 4mm,andi
    Yes that makes sense Andi as I was working on the principle of using uniform holes to do the same sort of thing but probably wouldn't allow for changes in flow rate whereas different hole sizes would.

  7. #45
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andikoi View Post
    on the 4" john,id say 20 holes along each line,but it also depends what pump your using,a 5000lph isnt going to do what a 15000lph can,if you get me,frim i said the 2mm holes as this will mean the water cant get out as easy and will force it to rais inside pipe to the 5mm ones or even 3 or 4mm,andi
    Starting to do my head in now.
    This is what i have done,disconnected the whole circle pipe,connected up a straight piece to half way along then a 90 deg so the water is coming out half way along the tank with no holes.
    I have a baffle plate on top of the media,basically a sheet of plastic with large holes in to spread the water and it seems to be ok.

    This is a temp fix.
    I am useing a 18000 variable down to about 3000 gals/hr less height loss.
    The internal dimensions of the tank are 28 x 17.5 ins.
    So Andi if i used 4ins pipe with the end capped off with 2mm holes along the length then 5mm at 45 deg to them on each side would that be ok?
    John

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  9. #46
    Moderator Rank = Supreme Champion Feline's Avatar
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    It's surprising how many holes you actually need to prevent any back pressure. I drilled some, tested it, drilled some more, tested it, made them all larger before mine was to my liking. Took ages to de-burr the edges of all the holes with a file.

    IMG_3446 by Lara Day, on Flickr

    I think if I made a spray bar again I would just use my power mitre saw to make slots across it like DaveJ did on his. Much faster to do

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  11. #47
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    In a way it depends on what you have in your system as if you have a drum you will be able to use smaller holes as there is less chance of anything getting through to block them but if you are only using a Nexus or similar you may need to keep the holes a bit bigger?

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  13. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    It's surprising how many holes you actually need to prevent any back pressure. I drilled some, tested it, drilled some more, tested it, made them all larger before mine was to my liking. Took ages to de-burr the edges of all the holes with a file.

    IMG_3446 by Lara Day, on Flickr

    I think if I made a spray bar again I would just use my power mitre saw to make slots across it like DaveJ did on his. Much faster to do
    You should get yourself something like this -

    https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produ...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Basically just stick it in the hole and spin it round a couple of times and job's a good'un

    They do cheaper ones but that's got a replaceable blade plus they do ones that work on metal as well as plastic. Saves a lot of time with a file and fits very small to very large holes too.

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  15. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feline View Post
    It's surprising how many holes you actually need to prevent any back pressure. I drilled some, tested it, drilled some more, tested it, made them all larger before mine was to my liking. Took ages to de-burr the edges of all the holes with a file.

    IMG_3446 by Lara Day, on Flickr

    I think if I made a spray bar again I would just use my power mitre saw to make slots across it like DaveJ did on his. Much faster to do
    Thats interesting Lara,do you mean slot at right angles to the pipe?
    As in you start to cut the pipe but only part way through?
    John

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  17. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    Thats interesting Lara,do you mean slot at right angles to the pipe?
    As in you start to cut the pipe but only part way through?
    Would have to be careful cutting slots as potentially the pipe could bow in the heat and the weight of the water in it over time as you are affecting it's strength more than you are by drilling holes aren't you?

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  19. #51
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    Know what you mean Frim,unless i cut slots length ways.
    John

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  21. #52
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    I wouldn't like to say one way was better than the other as personally I wouldn't want to cut slots in horizontally mounted plastic pipe unless I was going to fit additional supports to it to make sure it can't flex too much. It's bad enough cutting multiple holes in it and the larger the holes the weaker it becomes as you have less material to help keep its shape or strength. Obviously pressure pipe would be better to use than waste pipe would be if you are going to try it and you could always run another pipe above it to strap it to should you need the extra support - maybe?

    I'm not saying that cutting slots into the pipe will turn it into something as flexible as ribbed hose pipe but it will have some effect on it's structural abilities maybe not short term but longer term possibly.

    If you were to cut slots in it would it not be better to feed the spray bar from the middle to help even the flow over the length of it as if you pump in from one end you could lose too much water before it gets to the other end if you don't get the slots right?

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  23. #53
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    ive done both inthe past,had holes and slots,i must say the holes did block up,this was easily rectifies by having a screw on endcap that i could take off and stick a filter brush down,the slots work well and i used an angle grinder to do mine i just cut a 3rd of way up pipe,although the flow near end did drop off rapidly,dont think you will end up with same flow all along pipe no matter what you did,unless you put an inlet at each end,if you split the supply with an equal T then had it entering either end of a single piece of pipe the flow would meet in the middle of this piece,i think lol,andi

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  25. #54
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    Why not fed it via the middle then the flow drops off as it reaches the ends and not the middle. Where do you want the most flow if it isn't even across the top 3/4 of the way out from the middle or 3/4 of the way in from the sides?

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  27. #55
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    My strange way of thinking was if they came in from each end then when flow lessens in middle there will be twice as much as its from both ends lol,andi

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  29. #56
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    I want the flow even all the way along or near enough.

    What ive done now is cut a length of 4ins pipe,drilled 25/ 2mm holes along the bottom,then at 45deg from that i drilled 5mm holes not in line with the first as per Andis suggestion.
    I think they will be too small but at least i can easily make them bigger as i cant rectify them if they are too big.
    Will fit it in the morning not too big a job and let you know how i get on.
    John

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  31. #57
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    What i have to be carefull is back pressure on the pump and doing damage.
    John

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  33. #58
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    This is the thread where DaveJ mentioned cutting slots
    https://www.koiforum.uk/water-treatm...spray-bar.html

    I don't think there would be any issue at all in the strength of 3" pressure pipe when cut in this way. The pipe is in no way structural, only contains a fraction of it's volume in water at any one time under no pressure, and is supported at both ends of the shower in any case.

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  35. #59
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Lara,drilled small holes as above but good idea of the test hole on the top.
    John

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  37. #60
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion john1's Avatar
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    Cracked it !!!!!
    Attachment 25775Attachment 25776

    For some reason it wont let me upload any more pics,says i have exceeded my meg bite what ever that means.

    Anyway,the 4ins pipe is 30ins long,
    Drilled 2mm holes 30mm apart.
    Either side of that 30mm along a row of 6.5mm 40mm apart.
    Either side of the 6.5mm 30mm away a row of 3.5mm.

    So, I have five rows,middle one 2mm,either side 6.5mm then two of 3.5mm.
    Started off with the two outside ones which wasnt enough and was hitting the side of the tank and coming out of the overflow i drilled in the top,so drilled the 6.5 in between and it is spot on.

    Think it is a good idea to have the hole in the top,only 2mm,as it lets air out and you can see if there is any back pressure.
    What do you think.
    John

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