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Thread: Diy moving bed k1
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06-06-2018, 03:27 PM #21
Trace I find my filter fairly easy and quick to maintain but if you have designed out issues you have come across and made it easier I'm all for that gives you more time to have a brew and watch the fish
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Ajm Thanked / Liked this Post
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06-06-2018, 04:39 PM #22
Yeah am all up for trying out this filter and as you say trace if you can add to it as and when. Simple good for fish easy to add in what more would you need it a filter
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"we are water keepers first"
Johnathan
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06-06-2018, 09:08 PM #23
Check this out !!
https://www.pondtrademag.com/best-pr...n-oxygenation/THE FOOD`S LOUSY!
THE WATER IS TO COLD!
THE POND NEEDS CLEANING!
YOU SHOULD FEED US MORE OFTEN!
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06-06-2018, 10:34 PM #24
They do some weird sheeeet over on Koiphen
And some clever stuff too!
Kent Wallace is a big contributor on there.
Americans are odd, they do love a lot of massive pipework and “blowers” (and bead filters). Some of the contraptions that people rig up at the sides of their houses are engineering masterpieces but who wants a mini oil rig thing in the yard?
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Ajm Thanked / Liked this Post
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06-06-2018, 10:43 PM #25
What kind of witchcraft is this lol
witchcraft.jpgTHE FOOD`S LOUSY!
THE WATER IS TO COLD!
THE POND NEEDS CLEANING!
YOU SHOULD FEED US MORE OFTEN!
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06-06-2018, 10:46 PM #26
this stuff, used for garden irrigation systems, you blow air through it instead of water
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CF4MJ...a-422373400448
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Trace Thanked / Liked this Post
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06-06-2018, 11:08 PM #27
witchcraft 2.jpg
I was under the impression is was a bottom drain 3" flow to filter and 3" centre return lolTHE FOOD`S LOUSY!
THE WATER IS TO COLD!
THE POND NEEDS CLEANING!
YOU SHOULD FEED US MORE OFTEN!
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06-06-2018, 11:14 PM #28
Now you got me confused lol, it’s late so not surprising ...isn’t that picture the aeration ring for “something”
Might be a diy bottom drain or the air supply at the bottom of the MB.
The rubber ring is deffo the garden hose stuff, seen it used before in aquariums
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06-06-2018, 11:18 PM #29
Yer..DIY bottom drain, i nput my glasses on. Koi toilets the septic like to call them
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06-06-2018, 11:19 PM #30
I believe this to be some sort of bespoke bottom drain design, If you look at diagram for pond setup
The Yankees maybe thinking outside the box/pond lolTHE FOOD`S LOUSY!
THE WATER IS TO COLD!
THE POND NEEDS CLEANING!
YOU SHOULD FEED US MORE OFTEN!
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07-06-2018, 06:10 AM #31
They’ve had to. Until recently there were only a couple of drum filters available over there for example and they were hugely expensive.
We really are spoilt for choice when it comes to off the shelf equipment in this country.
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07-06-2018, 11:19 AM #32
Took me a while to get my head around what he is actually trying to achieve in that design.
For example he is using an airlift between a settlement tank and moving bed filters because he says feeding the moving bed from the top and extracting from the bottom is better? I wonder why?
I do quite a bit of wood work, DIY and mechanics etc - One of the stand out things on youtube with people doing similar things is the american culture tends to not only be 'bigger is better' but slapping a big motor on it is the only way to go.
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07-06-2018, 03:45 PM #33
Yes the design had me perplexed as well lol
Strange the exit on the bottom of the bio chamber !
And finally i agree with you regarding the American`s making everything as big as possible but the strange thing here is,he is describing in detail the power usage(minimal)THE FOOD`S LOUSY!
THE WATER IS TO COLD!
THE POND NEEDS CLEANING!
YOU SHOULD FEED US MORE OFTEN!
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13-06-2018, 08:17 PM #34
Hi G if your happy then I am too ... an issue to me might not be an issue to you I'll explain where I'm coming from ... firstly I was trying to drive my system using the absolute minimum of power consumption too (to keep other family members happy who have no interest in ponds/fish) ... which dictated some of the changes.
You can 99% of the time get any diy static/moving bed filter no matter how bad the design to appear to work well by simply chucking a LARGER air pump on it until it can brute force turn over the media but that's not what I was after ... it's also not good for the pumps.
In the end here in my compact filter (which the new one is scaled up from) I get 90L (3x eazypod equivalent) of media in only a 400 x 800mm rectangular footprint of space and my whole air and filter electrical system: BD aeration, fluid bed, air lift return works from only two 30L/m air pumps @ <50watts (I could've maybe reduced that to 35watts by using a single 60L/m air pump but thought it better to give the air lift it's own pump and make it easier to balance overall system back pressure) and I'm hoping to at least double the media in the new filter for not much more power ... .
Water parameters have been perfect for 3+ years (but then ANY high surface area media with pond water running past it can achieve that), the far more important issue is that I have had zero long term mulm build up anywhere. That's what I was looking for ... a lot of people who have built diy designs have no idea that they have mulm (detritus) building up at the bottom of and in other spots in their filters until inexplicable (because the water parameters read perfect) health issues arise. I've seen it before where every potion under the sun has been used to treat the pond and nothing has worked (torturing the fish) ... then eventually as it's the last place to look the filter has been emptied and half an inch of mulm has been found at the bottom (built up over years) harbouring all sorts of nasties. A lot of diy filter designers IMO seem to have their long term priorities in the wrong order, putting water parameters first before mechanical filtration and ease of keeping clean. I reverse that order because good water parameters are the easiest thing to achieve with any filter. Newbies (which most diy'ers are) always seem to think that as long as their filter provides good water parameters it's a great filter but in reality sometimes that couldn't be further from the truth.
If your filter works exactly the way you want it to and stays clean long term then I'm all for it too ... we're all using similar pipe and principles but as in car engines small changes can sometimes make big differences ... there are always many ways to do the same thing .. I've tried most of them now and my design is IMO the best way of properly utilising the largest amount of media for the smallest amount of power consumption with the least chance of long term mulm build up.
If not so bothered about any of those points and don't mind possibly replacing air pumps every 2 or 3 years then there are dozens of (almost all) diy designs that will keep your pond water parameters perfect ... but maybe not the fish as healthy as they could be with a good design.
Mr1Superb's designs do seem to have got simpler and maybe they are fine ... they certainly inspired me a few years ago ...
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13-06-2018, 09:22 PM #35
Thanks Trace I must admit being new to the koi pond world I thought it was all about the water parameters which I obtained largely but I have experienced my fair share of issues but with the pond not quite being a year old I expected some issues but you have me thinking about the design and mulm build up, I will probably tear down my filter and inspect the mulm build up and go from there. Hopefully I can pester the nice koiforum people for their filter designs sorry hi jacking the OP's thread now lol
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Ajm Thanked / Liked this Post
Aquaforte Dm vario 20000 pumps
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