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  1. #1

    Information & diagram on how to install External Thermostat to Heat Pump

    Hi

    Happy New Year to everyone , hope you all have a good and stress free Koi Year.

    Doe any have a diagram or information they can share on how to install an external Thermostat controller to an heat pump.



  2. #2
    Yep, connecting external equipment to heat pump control panels is easy, which pump do you have? I can post diagrams for Dream and Duratech. If it's not one of those, I can try to obtain the information for you.

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  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Manky Sanke View Post
    Yep, connecting external equipment to heat pump control panels is easy, which pump do you have? I can post diagrams for Dream and Duratech. If it's not one of those, I can try to obtain the information for you.

    Thanks for your reply and possible help , the heat Pump Model is a Dream unit.

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  6. #4
    On the main circuit board there is a link (marked EXT in the diagram below) that can be replaced by external control equipment. You can connect your external stat in this place.

    You can also connect additional equipment, such as a timer, in series with this link and it is the correct place to control the heat pump by external equipment. The electronics only require a low current contact rather than the high current contact you would need if you attempt to control the power supply to the heat pump or to the compressor itself. There is also some electronics behind this link that protects the compressor against rapid cycling or any other circumstance that may damage it.

    Just two steps:

    1. Take the live and neutral supply for the stat from the mains input connector block. (You should include a small fuse holder with a 3 amp or 3.15 amp fuse for safety).
    2. Connect the stat contact in place of the link marked EXT.


    BTW this link can control the pump from any other device you might think of such as a timer - just make sure that you use a volt free contact for all external devices and connect them all in series.


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  8. #5
    Manky Sanky


    Thanks for the information, I will give it a go . I am thinking of using a TLZ 11 Microprocessor or similar used by many of the Koi suppliers (Pro Digi-Stat Controller. Is that what you would recommend ?

  9. #6
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  11. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by mwy62831 View Post
    Manky Sanky


    Thanks for the information, I will give it a go . I am thinking of using a TLZ 11 Microprocessor or similar used by many of the Koi suppliers (Pro Digi-Stat Controller. Is that what you would recommend ?
    I've never used that stat, or any other proprietary stats, when I've controlled heat pumps by external equipment because I used to design and and fit custom made control panels for all types of leisure equipment including swimming pool filtration equipment and heat pumps.

    So I can't vouch for it personally but it has a good specification and is designed around well tried and tested digital technology and microprocessors that are widely used. This range is also recommended for koi keepers and I've not heard any bad reports. The only negative point I have about this range is that, they are designed to be installed in control panels where fingers don't have access so the connector terminals aren't enclosed to avoid accidental contact, especially with the mans terminals. I normally advise potential users that they can fit the stats in a suitable plastic box or glue a suitable finger shield over any exposed connection.

  12. #8
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Nisai ash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manky Sanke View Post
    Yep, connecting external equipment to heat pump control panels is easy, which pump do you have? I can post diagrams for Dream and Duratech. If it's not one of those, I can try to obtain the information for you.
    This is excellent news. Do you have a diagram for Duratech that you can share for me?

    Many thanks.


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  13. #9
    There y'go Ash,

    As with the Dream heat pump below there are just two steps:

    1. Take the live and neutral supply for the stat from the mains input connector block. (You should include a small fuse holder with a 3 amp or 3.15 amp fuse for safety).
    2. Connect the stat contact in place of the link marked DI01 and GND



    As with the Dream heat pump, this link can control the pump from any other device you might think of such as a timer - just make sure that you use a volt free contact for all external devices and connect them all in series.





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  15. #10
    Hi,

    I came across this topic since I recently installed a heat pump which was advertised for koiponds, but it also turns out that the controller doesn't allow temperatures below 15C. (and I believe hysteresis of 1-2degrees). It seems many of these heatpumps have very similar electronics inside. I found in the manual the following schematics. It is from the brand Aquaforte (dutch), but I believe they all come from a chinese manufacturer phnix. My pump is a full inverter which has variable power output. However it looks like on the schematics there's also the DI1 which I believe can be used with an external thermostat.

    But am I right then that the internal thermostat has to be set high enough so when DI1 is on, it will turn on it's internal thermostat? Or in other words, if the internal thermostat is set at 15, it will never pass that number, even if the external thermostat is set at 20degrees? Probably needs to be set high enough to use hysteresis of external device. Or any other advice on how to use this HP and be able to set a lower setpoint

    screen-capture-73.jpg

  16. #11
    That's correct Scratch,

    The external stat should be set to the required temperature and the internal stat should be set to a higher temperature. I recommend setting the internal stat to a degree or so higher than the external stat so that the internal stat will prevent the pond temperature rising above this point if the external stat should fail in the "calling for heat" mode.

  17. #12
    Hi Scratch009

    We followed Mankey Snake diagrams and instruction and finally the external Thermostat overrides the internal stat. All is working fine. I hope this helps.

  18. #13

    Red face

    edit: I went in too fast, found another topic "what do you do in winter" that goes into more details on temps.. oops , plus I also found my answer in an excellent article Aeromonas alley

    Really happy to came across this thread and already ordered an external controller. Thanks! Maybe a bit off-topic and probably already discussed but can't find it straight away. What temps do you advice to keep, that is, for an uncovered pond. I'd like to follow the seasons/winter. I don't want to go below 4-5 degrees, but what is considered the "danger zone". I've read 8-12degrees, other say 6-10.. just curious on your findings

    cheers
    philippe
    Last edited by scratch009; 16-10-2018 at 10:53 AM.

  19. #14
    So I spoke to a technician of where I bought the heatpump. He said most "swimmingpool" heatpumps have thermostats not lower then 15degrees, because otherwise the gas inside could go liquid when everything is too cold, and it may damage/break the heatpump. He said you can go down to 10degrees with external stat but shouldn't go much lower. Any of you here have any experience/advice on this? I'd say all those heatpumps are more or less similar, if not from the same chinese manufacturer. Mine doesn't go lower then 15 degrees, but would like to go a bit lower during winter
    Last edited by scratch009; 16-10-2018 at 04:41 PM.

  20. #15
    I couldn't agree with that. I ran a swimming pool company for over 30 years and I never heard of such a limitation. I've worked on more installations than I can remember where heat pumps were the source of heat for swimming pools and/or environmental control systems which heated and dehumidified pool buildings which were intended to be in use all year even in the harshest winter.

    The reason heat pumps for swimming pools don't control water or room temperatures below about 15°C is simply that no one would want to swim at that temperature or be in a pool hall that was only heated to 15°C. So there was no need to design a stat that had a control range that went below that value - pure economics, nothing else.

    As for the supposed risk that the refrigerant might turn from a gas to a liquid, anyone who understands how a heat pump works would know that it's important for the refrigerant to condense to a liquid after the expansion valve before it re-evaporates to a cool gas in the evaporator before being re-compressed to a hot gas by the compressor. See the diagram below for a basic explanation and my more detailed explanation on my website on this link:
    Good water guide: pt 8




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  22. #16
    Thanks Manky Sanke, that's just the info I wanted to read I've also found your website and have been reading some articles already. Very insightful!

    The only part I could think of in the graph is that if pond water is too cold, the gas could condense too quickly? And since liquid doesn't compress there might be some pressure issues on the high pressure side.. but thermodynamics classes have been almost 20yrs ago so all is a bit blurry :P
    Either way.. I can't exchange my ASHP, so I'll just stick with it. Will be mounting an external stat this weekend. Cheers!

  23. #17
    Trust me, in thirty plus years of seeing air source heat pumps operating in freezing conditions, I've never seen that happen or heard of anyone else having that problem.

    Heat pump efficiency reduces as air temperatures fall but a common refrigerant, R22, evaporates from its liquid phase to its gaseous phase at -40.8°C (ok, I knew it was very low but I confess that I just looked it up). Therefore, as long as the air temperature is a few degrees above that, it will always be in its gaseous state when it reached the compressor. Even if the air temperature was below that so that the refrigerant was still liquid when it reached the compressor, as soon as it began to compress, the heat would instantly turn it back to a gas again.

    Heat pumps become very inefficient at low temperatures but they don't blow up, catch fire or go into catastrophic meltdown!!

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