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  1. #61
    That’s a consideration too Gray, if you’re feeding floating food half of it may disappear down the skimmer if you can’t shut it off.
    My plan is for sinking but I know a fair few people don’t like this.


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  3. #62
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    That’s a consideration too Gray, if you’re feeding floating food half of it may disappear down the skimmer if you can’t shut it off.
    My plan is for sinking but I know a fair few people don’t like this.


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    My thought exactly. I feed floating so it’s good to have the skimmer off for most of the day when I feed.

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  5. #63
    Member Rank = Nisai neo3998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray View Post
    You’re not being a pain mate, everyone loves answering questions and helping!

    Trust me, I was asking waaaay more questions on here when I was building mine a couple of years ago and the admin never booted me off and the guys on here still talk to me! New Member | Advice Required | Brendan's Koi Build, Started July 2019

    The price from JBR looks good as we’d all expect.

    One note on the 4” skimmer (BCC correct me if I’m wrong) is that with 4” you tend to plumb this into you filter system as BCC said much like a BD.

    However, you could opt to have a 2” pipe coming out and then have a small pump (7,000 I use) to pull the water into the skimmer, basket catches the crap and then from the pump you can push the water back to the pond over a waterfall, blade or similar.

    Mine comes out of a hole in the wall just above the water level and is timed to run from 8pm-9pm when the main system switches off for an hour.

    Works a treat and means I don’t have it on all day.

    You might want yours on all day so the 4” to filter would make sense but if you wanted a timed system for an hour or so a day then I’d go 2” outlet from skimmer with 7,000 pump to recirculate.

    Just an additional idea to consider!
    Thanks for this. It shows how little I know as I thought the skimmer had to be on all day. Unfortunately through lack of knowledge I just went for the over sizing approach and ordered the 4" one. All the parts are coming on Wed or Thurs so I'll be out fitting it all at the weekend and digging through the week.

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  7. #64
    Member Rank = Nisai neo3998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    It's a good idea to get the skimmer with a built in overflow. JBR offer that. It's like a little standpipe that screws in the bottom so you can adjust the level. You can come off it with 38mm flexi pipe (I'd have to check that size).
    The better flex pipe is from somewhere like Absolute, it's not expensive either. Good stuff and you can solvent weld it also.
    Plumbing in your skimmer is the same as a bottom drain, but upside down if you like. Out of the bottom with a 4" boot to 4" pipe then route as required. Dead simple. Use swept bends not 90 elbows for better whhoooooooosh
    Ah right. I'm really not sure what I ordered from JBR. They didn't say anything about overflows on the skimmer, they just gave me an option of size and I just went for the biggest lol. They put me on the spot with the question and I didn't know the answer.

    I will send pics of it all before it goes in and then again when it's in the ground.

    I didn't imagine pond building was so complicated when I opted to move it all to a part raised, part dug pond. It's scary how much I've been overlooking things.

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  9. #65
    Member Rank = Nisai neo3998's Avatar
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    Update on the infinity window situation. These prices are scary and this is without a frame or bracket....

    25.5mm********************** 31.5mm
    1500mm x 800mm x 30mm (or as close as thickness) *
    £240 + vat ***************** £360 + vat

    1500mm x 900mm x 30mm (or as close as thickness) **********
    £270 + vat ***************** £405 + vat

    1400mm x 800mm x* 30mm (or as close as thickness) *********
    £225 + vat****************** £335 + vat

    1400mm x 900mm x* 30mm (or as close as thickness) *********
    £250 + vat****************** £380 + vat

    The first price under each one is the 25.5mm and the 2nd more expensive price is for 31.5mm.

    I really want the 1500x900. But I guess my question is. What thickness can I get away with. The thickness makes a huge difference to the price.

    P.s all prices have 20% on top for VAT but delivery is in the price.

    What are everyone's thoughts? Would 25.5mm be enough or is the window a little too big that it will need uprating the glass on?

    I thought I would put all prices up incase anyone else is looking at TuffX glass. This is a quote from Lee at TuffX.

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  11. #66
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Regards your skimmer, you could always get a 4” to 2” rubber boot to reduce it down if you wanted it on a separate line like I mentioned.

    As for the over flow and skimmer, I ordered one without but some bright spark on here (I forget who now) said to me to simply fill the pond to level you want and then drill a 10mm hole just above the water line from the outside of the skimmer inwards. Works well for me because when it chucked it down the excess water just dribbled out of the back of the skimmer - no pond flood!

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  13. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo3998 View Post
    Update on the infinity window situation. These prices are scary and this is without a frame or bracket....

    25.5mm********************** 31.5mm
    1500mm x 800mm x 30mm (or as close as thickness) *
    £240 + vat ***************** £360 + vat

    1500mm x 900mm x 30mm (or as close as thickness) **********
    £270 + vat ***************** £405 + vat

    1400mm x 800mm x* 30mm (or as close as thickness) *********
    £225 + vat****************** £335 + vat

    1400mm x 900mm x* 30mm (or as close as thickness) *********
    £250 + vat****************** £380 + vat

    The first price under each one is the 25.5mm and the 2nd more expensive price is for 31.5mm.

    I really want the 1500x900. But I guess my question is. What thickness can I get away with. The thickness makes a huge difference to the price.

    P.s all prices have 20% on top for VAT but delivery is in the price.

    What are everyone's thoughts? Would 25.5mm be enough or is the window a little too big that it will need uprating the glass on?

    I thought I would put all prices up incase anyone else is looking at TuffX glass. This is a quote from Lee at TuffX.

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    Oh, just thought I would update. There's a 3 week lead time on the glass so I'm hoping to order on Monday.

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  15. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray View Post
    Regards your skimmer, you could always get a 4” to 2” rubber boot to reduce it down if you wanted it on a separate line like I mentioned.

    As for the over flow and skimmer, I ordered one without but some bright spark on here (I forget who now) said to me to simply fill the pond to level you want and then drill a 10mm hole just above the water line from the outside of the skimmer inwards. Works well for me because when it chucked it down the excess water just dribbled out of the back of the skimmer - no pond flood!
    Thanks. I'll have to look at the boot then, I guess I didn't have a clue at all. When he said 2 inch, 3 inch or 4 inch I actually didn't have a clue it was the pipe size. I keep thinking it was the skimmer with Haha. I did think it sounded bloody small.

    It all turned up from JBR today. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. I've looked at the bottom drain and must admit I'm a little confused at the moment. I'll ping some pics up tomorrow evening and hopefully someone can tell me more about how it works and plumbs in.

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  17. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo3998 View Post
    Oh, just thought I would update. There's a 3 week lead time on the glass so I'm hoping to order on Monday.

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    Hi All,

    Does anyone have any thoughts on the window size/thickness? Should I order the window after the pond and window gap are built? Also, how much either side of the glass do I need to rest on the block work? Will I need a frame for it as well or could I build something makeshift?

    Does anyone have any cheaper ideas for the frame that they have used? I've decided it will be a recessed infinity window.

    Looking to order ASAP, preferably today, tomorrow or Monday.

    Few more pics attached of bottom drain location and a couple of the old pond I'll be moving the fish from.

    Thanks in advance.
    Brendan

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  19. #70
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    A little bit more progress this afternoon although I seem to have hit a sewer run. I'm going to expose it more tomorrow to see if it is what I think it is. Just hoping I've got enough room to get the 4" pipe back up and out the ground.

    P.s I hate digging and I've barely done all that much. You really feel it when you sit at a desk all day for a living haha.

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  21. #71
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Good work mate, it’ll be worth it in the end for sure!

    I’d order the window after the block work is done. With the best will in the world your gap will end up slightly different to what you think unless you’re a pro-bricky.

    The rebate for the window to sit in is usually 50mm all round - on infinity that’ll be 50mm min both sides and 50mm on the bottom.

    You’ll need to decide your glass thickness too when cutting your 50mm rebate depth as you’ll want to allow for glass plus 3-5mm sealant bed.

    Some people don’t use a frame. They fibreglass the pond and the rebate and then seal the glass direct.

    I only went for a frame for 100% surety.

    I did all the block work and then measured up for the window and frame. Safest way because you don’t want to get a window too big or even worse too small. The latter will mean you’re royally buggered...the former, you could cut more rebate but it’d be a hassle.

    Personally I’d crack the block work and then order the glass and frame.

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  23. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray View Post
    Good work mate, it’ll be worth it in the end for sure!

    I’d order the window after the block work is done. With the best will in the world your gap will end up slightly different to what you think unless you’re a pro-bricky.

    The rebate for the window to sit in is usually 50mm all round - on infinity that’ll be 50mm min both sides and 50mm on the bottom.

    You’ll need to decide your glass thickness too when cutting your 50mm rebate depth as you’ll want to allow for glass plus 3-5mm sealant bed.

    Some people don’t use a frame. They fibreglass the pond and the rebate and then seal the glass direct.

    I only went for a frame for 100% surety.

    I did all the block work and then measured up for the window and frame. Safest way because you don’t want to get a window too big or even worse too small. The latter will mean you’re royally buggered...the former, you could cut more rebate but it’d be a hassle.

    Personally I’d crack the block work and then order the glass and frame.
    Hi,

    Many thanks for the advice, I was thinking much the same with the glass as, like you have said, the hassle involved with changing the look of the block work would be a nightmare.

    Have you ever heard of people chopping into the block work and then holding the glass in place without a frame? I've got a liner so won't be able to fibre glass and use adhesive to hold it in. Unless I just fibreglass the opening? Is that something that is possible? Ideally I want to get away without having to pay for a frame but at the same time wouldn't risk it if it just was not at all advisable.

    I guess the next question is....

    What do I link my bottom drain pipework to? At the moment I dont have anything, so I'm assuming I'll need to create a reservoir with some filtration built in. I have read it's best to have 4" pipe into the reservoir/holding tank and then pull from a 2" with a pump out from there.

    I'll be honest, with the bottom drain, plumbing, skimmer, gate valves and the infinity window the budget is blown.

    I'm now looking for cheap and cheerful that will still do the job. I know this isn't an area that should be low budget, but needs must and I would plan to save up and replace ASAP.

    Anyone running any cheap home made setups that are working for them?

    Regards
    Brendan

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  25. #73
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Adult Champion bowsaw's Avatar
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    there are plenty of folks that have done it with a liner, maybe a forum search will bring those builds up
    the slow pond build thread

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  27. #74
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    P.s I dug some more of the back wall out this afternoon and tested the pipe layout. I've been told to concrete the pipe in that's running under the blocks but to wrap in a towel or off cut of carpet prior to concreting it. Apparently to slide it out easier at a later date. I'm not sure if he understands that there will be over 20,000 litres of water inside the pond that sits right above the pipe work lol.

    I'm going to concrete the bottom drain in as well. I just have to sort out my levels...

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  29. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo3998 View Post
    P.s I dug some more of the back wall out this afternoon and tested the pipe layout. I've been told to concrete the pipe in that's running under the blocks but to wrap in a towel or off cut of carpet prior to concreting it. Apparently to slide it out easier at a later date. I'm not sure if he understands that there will be over 20,000 litres of water inside the pond that sits right above the pipe work lol.

    I'm going to concrete the bottom drain in as well. I just have to sort out my levels...

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    Is the pipe only connected to your house?

    https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/...032498.article is worth a read if it isn't and probably if it is as well
    the slow pond build thread

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  31. #76
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    You might want to consider swapping that orange polypipe out for grey pressure pipe for your underground runs.

    Your orange will be probably be fine but for 100% I’d go grey pressure where you can’t get at it in the future and then you can run whatever you like above ground.

    As for liners and windows; I can’t really comment. I’ve got zero experience of liner builds.

    However, for glass builds you can just chop the blocks to create the rebate, glass over it and then fit your window to the glassed blocks. No frame needed if you don’t / can’t have one.

    As for liner, I’m not sure of the approach.

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  33. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray View Post
    You might want to consider swapping that orange polypipe out for grey pressure pipe for your underground runs.

    Your orange will be probably be fine but for 100% I’d go grey pressure where you can’t get at it in the future and then you can run whatever you like above ground.

    As for liners and windows; I can’t really comment. I’ve got zero experience of liner builds.

    However, for glass builds you can just chop the blocks to create the rebate, glass over it and then fit your window to the glassed blocks. No frame needed if you don’t / can’t have one.

    As for liner, I’m not sure of the approach.
    Hi,

    Thanks.

    The soil pipe was just for show thankfully, just some off cuts I had just to get a feel for how it goes. I've since concreted the drain in and a brick down the other end to get the pipe level when in. Once I've got the pipe in and chemically welded with plastic cement I'll remove the brick and bed the whole pipe down on clay and sand.

    The third and fourth pics are the actual pipe that I'm using. Seriously thick and heavy from JBR.

    Few more questions if I may...

    Can I actually concrete the whole pipe in? Or would I be better off bedding it down on compressed clay with a decent layer of sand on top?

    With the pipe that comes outside of the pond, how far from the outside wall would people recommend?

    Does anyone know where to buy a cheap reservoir for the 4" pressure pipe to connect to? JBR again? Also what kind of size does this need to be?

    Thanks in advance all. I'm pretty much winging this every day I'm working on it. It's literally the first time I've ever mixed concrete, which is shocking I know.

    Again, any help and advice is all taken on board and really appreciated.

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  35. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsaw View Post
    there are plenty of folks that have done it with a liner, maybe a forum search will bring those builds up
    Hi, I've looked at a few and I'm not 100% confident with how to do it with a liner still. I am worried about chopping or cutting the blocks incase I weaken them but know its likely needed. I'm also worried about drilling a frame in as the screw mounts could also add an element of weakness as well.

    I think I'll have to chop the blocks by the looks of things though, but am wondering how I will get the liner tucked under where the window is going in. I'm tempted to get someone in to do this part as I think it's a little beyond my capabilities.

    Basically.... I'm just really nervous about it all haha.

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  37. #79
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    New Member | Advice Required | Brendan's Koi Build, Started July 2019

    Hi mate. Good progress!

    A few points that might help that I was told by the guys on here and a couple of answers to your questions:

    Cement welding the pipes.
    Get yourself a bottle of Mek (clear alcohol solution) to clean up your pipe ends and inside your fittings before sticking them together. Gets rid of any oils and residues giving you a nice pair of surfaces to work with. I got a bottle off eBay for a few quid. Stinks but works a treat!

    Process for cement welding was/is;

    - Rough / lightly key both the pipe and fitting with some sand paper. I used 240 grit, nothing too abrasive.
    - Clean off any dust / grit with a clean cloth.
    - Apply Mek on both bits to be stuck.
    - Apply solvent weld to both.
    - Stick together.
    - Give them a quarter turn to spread the glue thoroughly.

    The glue goes off within literal seconds of contact with each piece when put together so work bloody fast to get the pipe right in to the fitting and give it a quarter turn.

    I nearly didn’t stick my BD to pipe in time as I hadn’t shoved it all the way. Just managed to whack it with a rubber mallet and turn it before it sealed. But seriously, go fast at it as you’ve got about 2-3 seconds max!

    Concrete on BD and pipe run.
    I concreted my pipe and BD in pretty much all the way and then concreted over it all for my base. Can’t see why you shouldn’t concrete yours completely and then blind over the whole lot with sand as your going liner.

    Window fitting.
    You’re only cutting approx 50mm rebate in to a set of laid flat block so the integrity of the blocks won’t be harmed. Seeing as you’re using liner I can’t give any info on how to fit a window to it as I’ve got fibreglass. Maybe someone else can offer some tips?

    Hope this stuff helps and it’s not reaching you to suck eggs!

    Just passing on the wisdom I received on here and it was super helpful!!!
    Last edited by Gray; 27-08-2019 at 11:13 PM.

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  39. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo3998 View Post
    Hi, I've looked at a few and I'm not 100% confident with how to do it with a liner still. I am worried about chopping or cutting the blocks incase I weaken them but know its likely needed. I'm also worried about drilling a frame in as the screw mounts could also add an element of weakness as well.

    I think I'll have to chop the blocks by the looks of things though, but am wondering how I will get the liner tucked under where the window is going in. I'm tempted to get someone in to do this part as I think it's a little beyond my capabilities.

    Basically.... I'm just really nervous about it all haha.

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    I would think in their versions they install the glass behind the liner and cut out the excess liner after, but I have a gap pond so I'm in the realms of assumption and not real life experience.
    the slow pond build thread

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