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30-09-2011, 08:58 AM #1
3000gal fiberglassed with nexus 310 build
Thought I’d start my pond build thread so you guys can help me out along the way.
I’m looking at internal dimensions of 9’ x 8’ x 6’ for the pond with an area of 10’ x 4’ available for the filter (filter size can be changed as required).
I’ve not started digging yet so this can be subject to change.
I’m looking at:
Bottom drain with air diffuser built in
Fiberglassed
Surface Skimmer
Viewing window (laminated 2 x 12.5mm 1.5m x 0.75m glass)
Nexsus 310
Top up tank
2 mid water returns creating current vortex
Protein skimmer into waterfall
Fresh Trickle feed via purifier then to waterfall
UV (unsure which one)
2 air pumps (bottom drain & filter)
Possibly a heater
So my plan is as follows:
Bottom drain will feed the Nexus 310.
Nexus 310 will be pumped back via 2 mid level feeds (angled to create a vortex effect current).
Nexus connected directly to waste for easy cleaning.
Surface skimmer will feed a top up tank.
Top up tank will consist of just a few brushes with a bottom drain connected to waste and an overflow pipe also connected to waste.
Pump with a float in the top up tank will pump to the waterfall when full.
Trickle feed of fresh water also into the waterfall.
Top up tank isolated and used to top up the pond after a nexus clean and flush.
It’s going to take me some time as I can only really spend an hour a day and maybe a few at the weekend to get this done. Also I live in a mid terrace so no access to the garden other than through the house.
So far I’ve ripped up the decking, dug deep through solid concrete and located the inspection chamber to which I’ve run a 110mm waste pipe from there to the garden. Tested it for leaks and sealed it all in, then relayed the decking. I’ve also run a hose under the decking up to an external tap for the trickle feed.
I’ll put some pictures up soon and update with progress every now and then.
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30-09-2011, 10:10 AM #2
Hi,
Good idea to always get down what your looking to do and see what others think as there are so many different ways to do things so easy and some hard and lets hope you can make it all as easy as possible
It looks like you have most of it covered and are going for a tried and tested filter that works which is always a great start.
What is the idea behind the skimmer top up tank how does this work ?
Why the trickle feed to the waterfall ?
The reason i ask is most will turn off their waterfalls during winter to stop the cooling of the water.
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30-09-2011, 10:26 AM #3
As I have a fairly low pond surface area. It will take a drop when I flush the nexus and therefore I need a top up on standby to bring the level back up ASAP. I'll have a pump in there with a float so I can turn this off in winter and any overflow will go straight to waste.
I was thinking to trickle the waterfall to both dilute and remove any chloride but then if I'm running through a purifier I can feed straight into the top up tank I guess.
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30-09-2011, 10:39 AM #4
Hi,
Sorry having an old moment
Why will the brushes and stuff be in the box and how will you stop it going stagnant
Yes it will be best to run the water through a purifier back to the pond and you may find you wont get as much as a drop and it will be OK.
I take it your having an overflow and i know people in similar situation have an isolation valve on the overflow so they can isolate and in doing so raise the water level the day before a filter clean.
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30-09-2011, 11:34 AM #5
The brushes would be in there to catch any surface floating debris that gets through the skimmer. The water in the will gradually rise between filter flushes as there will be a trickle going into the pond. This water from the tank will then bu pumped back into the pond (unless it's empty from a filter flush - hense the pump with level float).
I'll have an overkill of isolation valves in place so every part of the filter and components can be isolated or diverted.
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01-10-2011, 12:21 PM #6
Can anyone in the Romford/ Essex area recommend a good fibreglasser and renderer? I have quotes for fibreglass which I think are ok but seems I may be paying a little too much.
Thanks
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03-10-2011, 08:23 PM #7
Today and yesterday afternoon I started the long dig. As mentioned I have a mid terrace so it's all got to be dug by hand. Just under a foot of top soil dug out first, I'll be using this to level the garden. Then 2.5' of sub soil and clay. I'm having to take the earth through the house using a 40ltr soft bucket. Very time consuming and heavy lifting. With the first 6 yard skip full, I'm finished for now until the weekend due to work commitments.
I will get sone pics up soon, promise.
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03-10-2011, 08:26 PM #8
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03-10-2011, 08:31 PM #9
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03-10-2011, 09:48 PM #10
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03-10-2011, 10:38 PM #11
One thing I forgot to ask. As I'm digging the required depth is it worth boarding up the sides with external ply to prevent collapse or does this seldom happen?. The reason I ask is that we will have rain soon and having never dug a pond this deep I'm not sure how I should leave it in between digging sessions.
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03-10-2011, 11:14 PM #12
Please do Mark...have rendered quite a few ponds in my time including all the show ponds at tc koi in essex. I also specialize in all forms of external rendering on houses and commercial applications and I am a licensed STO and WEBER render systems applicator.
Regards Matt
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05-10-2011, 01:41 PM #13
Last edited by Pinnacle; 18-06-2018 at 09:29 AM. Reason: enbed pictures
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05-10-2011, 05:06 PM #14
keep going mate, will all be worth it in the end!
I dont think you need to board up the sides at that depth, but when you get deeper I would defo be boarding up the sides, better be safe than sorry.
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06-10-2011, 09:39 AM #15
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06-10-2011, 11:38 AM #16
I have a few questions I’m hoping you can answer for me.
1) I live in a terrace house so have no side entrance. Do cement trucks have a pipe and pump that they can lay through the house to get to the back garden or am I looking at using a cement mixer and mixing up my own base?.
2) There are a fair few varieties of blocks on the market. What blocks would you recommend to use to build my pond walls. I was looking at medium density 440mm x 215mm x 100mm with a compressive strength of 3.6N/mm2. These will be laid flat to build the inner walls below surface area or can I get away with a single layer upright with backfill and then lay flat a foot or so before surface area?
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06-10-2011, 06:23 PM #17
You can order a pump station with your cement mix. Ours was a seperate vehicle which housed it and the pipes are modular that the company will connect up depending on the route. Be careful as it could be a little messy when they disconnect (cover up the floor, etc).
Blocks are up to you. Take a look at the builds and people have done different things. Personally, I'd lay them flat all the way and backfill where possible.
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06-10-2011, 09:15 PM #18
Hiya
3 feet out the ground is a fair height, Just checked ours, total height is 28" out the ground so the water level is at 25" above ground.
Think most Guys go for 7n dense blocks laid on their sides; need an expert like Ned to confirm, he's laid a few in his time .
Dave
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06-10-2011, 09:47 PM #19
The blocks used in my build were 7n, using blocks laid flat should be cheaper than backfilling with cement. My pond height is a total of 30'' above ground, any higher it would make it difficult to sit on the edge of the pond.
I know its been said before but take a visit to other peoples ponds.
Don't forget that if you use wall capping tiles they will also add some height to your pond.
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06-10-2011, 09:47 PM #20
The reason for having 3' above surface is our decking area is 1.5' above surface and we would like a viewing window sitting flush with the top of decking.
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Good shout, I'll have a look at Takazumi :)