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19-01-2019, 09:47 PM #616000g in ground koi pond
+3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
29 koi (40 to 65cm)
Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)
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andikoi Thanked / Liked this Post
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19-01-2019, 11:09 PM #62
No it doesn’t have the amalgam UV but as I’m looking at a steriliser set up I didn’t want the UV.
Good point on the T Piece thought, was thinking tap water would be cleaner and if there was a switch problem it’d keep cleaning and wouldn’t drain the pond just run the mains dry
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andikoi Thanked / Liked this Post
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19-01-2019, 11:20 PM #63
First question you should of asked is " andi wants to know what difference between stand and high flow screens" lol. As for pump, mine pulls from clean side but going to get a small loft tank and fit a torbeck valve to top up from mains as i got told the chlorine keeps screens cleaner by killing bacteria,and it just goes down drain anyway when cleaning,will just put 2 small tank connectors to connect to pumps....andi
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-01-2019, 12:15 AM #64
The amalgam keeps the screen clean - if yo don't have that maybe tap water will do a similar job. I'm to stingy being on a metre, to throw good tap water down the drain lol!
6000g in ground koi pond
+3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
29 koi (40 to 65cm)
Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)
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andikoi Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-01-2019, 12:43 AM #65
I cant believe they charge that much extra just for an outlet and screen and no amalgam.im afraid i would of just got the other drum changed screen and put extra outlet in and saved cash.think its robbery when they give you it on a cheaper model...sorry just my views...andi
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ganroob Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-01-2019, 02:11 AM #66
The amalgam is a good bit of kit. I think it’s £250-ish as a stand-alone. So well worth it if it’s included in the drum.
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20-01-2019, 09:35 AM #67
ok so found this on drum screen https://www.nikoi.nl/en/filtreau-sie...or-drum-filter , apparently has 30% permeation than standard but will fit cheaper drum, and also this says it comes standard with amalgam so dont know why KLK one doesnt, Filtreau HIGH FLOW 30m3/HR Drum Filter TR00004 & TR00005 ......andi
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20-01-2019, 10:21 AM #68
can i ask when you said your running a steriliser before each,what do you mean steriliser???? andi
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20-01-2019, 10:58 AM #69
https://www.boddingtonkoi.com/pond-a...-uv-range.html
these are used in water treatment for domestic use, a bit of a super uv in terms of contact time mainly. It’s either this or ozone separately and I’ve never fully got that oxidisation thing.
was actually thinking of putting this after the filter to maintain flow rates as it’s 2” in and out. Appreciate at first glance that’s counter intuitive however it’s more bug cleaning than algae and water will be pulling through fairly frequently?
quick question - has anyone used the JBR Plastics bottom drains.? Are they good quality, priced etc. Had a quote for boxes and they were really helpful so if they’re are decent kit may well expand my order.
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20-01-2019, 11:25 AM #70
looks like an enclosed amalgam to me,and an expensive one at that,58w and amalgams are 40w,18 month bulb life whereas amalgams are i think 2 years,and replacement trigon bulbs start at £110 every 18 months wow,,dont want to sound like a nae sayer but,i would of had another outlet put on the cheaper filtreau drum and put the hi flow screen in,or i would of wanted the amalgam thrown in on the HF30's for the money your spending, andi
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20-01-2019, 12:30 PM #71
Andi,
I was looking at both these options last fall when I wanted to increase flow via my filters with faster pond turnover rate and instead of getting new bigger drum replacing my original Easy drum I settled on getting second Easy Drum - coded in your link as TR003 - pumped version - but ordered it with high flow screen - it really gives about 25% higher flow capacity than the regular SST scren on my original Easy Drum from 2016. I will be fitting the high flow screen on the original Easy drum in the Spring when restarting the skimmer line after winter shutdown as I use one Easy drum for bottom drain line and second on skimmer line - in fully redundant setup both drums merged afterwards into the filters - so if one fails, second still feeds filters properly in my pumped setup.
Bottom line - for me it is unbeatable combination of robustly built (PA housing), reliable control unit and internal amalgam UV-C built in drum filter at very attractive price at 1.000 Euro - so with two of these drums for 2.000 Euro you get 50.000 L/h max flow capacity with two amalgam 40W UV-C units inside and full redundancy as a bonus - could not find anything else coming even close to this.... just food for thought I guess....Last edited by milaz; 20-01-2019 at 12:39 PM.
You get what you pay for - or better - what you make yourself.
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20-01-2019, 01:14 PM #72
The bulbs are complete different, the intensity on these isvfar far higher so they kill bacteria stone dead. The standard UV has a small fraction of the strength as it’s there to “clump” algae, it won’t kill very much at normal levels but like going under a sunbed?
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20-01-2019, 01:17 PM #73
Different kit but same idea and far more eloquently put than the above, designed to completely sterilise water and not originally ponds
https://www.boddingtonkoi.com/pond-a...erilizers.html
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20-01-2019, 01:23 PM #74
My five cents please:
Look into good drum for mechanical pre-filter - ideally in redundant setup on two separate lines for maximum safety - behind this you can easily DIY moving bed filter with either K1 or even better - Helix 12mm (it has bigger active surface than K1) - followed by DIY shower with ideally de-nitrifying media. Alternatively you may want to look seriously into anoxic filter - can be planted or unplanted - after the drum mechanical prefiltration stage - it really works well - Manky Sanke has covered it very well on his great website.
As for flow capacities I suggest you to plan for MAX 75%of manufacturers claimed maximum flow capacity as max real life value - you do not want to overstretch your filters and pumps having it running at their limit in continuous operation - this will reduce your operating costs and maintenance / failures frequency.
So with the above in mind you are looking into setup with minimum 50.000 L/h real life flow capacity - optimally 70.000 L/h - in mfg. specs this would mean to get gear capable of max 65 to 90.000 L/h for your setup.
There is school of thoughts however, that for such big pond as you are building the turnover rate does not need to be once per hour - but can be as low as twice per hour if you will maintain low fish density - so in this case you would be looking into about 45.000 L/h setup.
Consideration - filters should be running all year long - also in winter - albeit at lower flow - so you should look seriously into good thermal insulation of your pond incl. good cover for winter, all piping and filters need to be well insultated too - plus you should have heating designed to at least compensate for heat loss to keep stable 5-7 dC throught the winter - unless ypu want to keep your pond above Aeromonas alley - this would mean keeping your pond above 12 dC all winter - alltogether different setup......better to decide, plan and execute properly for your choosen alternative eaely enough in your build - I have not insulated my in the ground 24.000 L pond well enough and now pay the price each winter....
Just food for thought....Last edited by milaz; 20-01-2019 at 02:09 PM.
You get what you pay for - or better - what you make yourself.
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20-01-2019, 02:33 PM #75
Andi,
I had the same reservation when my dealer has offered me to buy new high flow screen as spare part - but when buying the second unit from him I asked it to be factory installed to test it - yes it has the same holes size of 70 microns - but noticeably thinner wires used than in the standard one - so there is lower turbullence around the mesh wires in the higher flow version - hence higher flow capacity with less resistence - it really works.
Time will tell if thinner wires in high flow version would also mean lower service life - but my dealer assured me, that the durability should be the same as std. flow screen....You get what you pay for - or better - what you make yourself.
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20-01-2019, 02:44 PM #76
A very helpful reply from Kings Lynn Koi that answers, and clearly shows the difference, you can sleep at night now Andi
Hello,
Both screens are 70 micron and the same size. The difference comes from the way the plastic which holds the stainless mesh is. The hi flow screen has a higher open surface area allowing a higher flow. I have attached a pic of each type to hopefully show the differences. The lighting is different so the screens look different but they are not.
Hope this helps,
Sally
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20-01-2019, 03:44 PM #77
Hi I had a TR3 on my pond for a couple of years, but the cost of replacement bulbs was extortionate! It had 3 bulbs at £300 a set, crazy. (The fittings on the bulb ends means Std bulbs won’t fit/ connect so you are tied into buying OEM bulbs.). So I sold it and put on std UV’s and noticed no difference to the pond. It is a good unit if money not an issue, though.
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Djstiles999, freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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20-01-2019, 07:35 PM #78
Quick question for people, I’ve heated a smaller pond before but not something on this scale. I can’t have a heat exchanger from a boiler for a variety of reasons. I could use an electric heat source pump but what size and what would the running costs be like to keep water at around 14 for the winter?
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21-01-2019, 06:46 AM #79
If you seriously want to heat your pond to those sort of temperatures through winter I would reconsider your pond size or do what I have done and separate the pond into two and only heat half.
You would need something like a 30kw heat pump consuming about 5kwh. Over the winter months the COP would drop to perhaps 2. So it would be on a lot even if your pond is insulated and well covered.
At the very least I would consider dropping the temp down to 5-6 Deg for the two coldest months, save some money, be kind to the environment and many people consider it better for the koi too.
Struggles to afford to keep a pond heated over winter is the number one reason people wish they had gone for a smaller pond!Last edited by pip895; 21-01-2019 at 07:08 AM.
6000g in ground koi pond
+3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
29 koi (40 to 65cm)
Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)
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21-01-2019, 09:36 AM #80
Probably why I had insulation in the design and building a really good cover. Wasn’t intending to heat at all but just curious as to options
Best plants to remove Nitrate
pug has a very impressive veg filter on his pond, have a look at some of his his youtube videos....