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  1. #1

    New build diary - Small 4,000Ltr Raised Blockwork Build

    Hi all, as promised here is my build diary so far. I have already posted few HELP questions and thank you all for your help and tips so far. I started my build back in May and progress has been slow. I am totally new to Pond building and my DIY skills are not that great and also only can work on the build during the weekends. (Wo)manpower just myself and the Missus, digging and shifting soil/ rubble back and forth to the Council recycle centre. It was hard work, especially mixing the concrete for the footing and mortar all by hand! We just got stuck in and certainly made mistakes here and there, but we are learning.... Here are some pics.......
    IMG_20180428_155235.jpgIMG_20180505_134524.jpgIMG_20180507_174319.jpgIMG_20180520_173853 - Copy.jpgIMG_20180609_165033.jpgIMG_20180805_162353.jpgIMG_20181002_183400.jpgIMG_20181002_183337.jpg

    The Internal diemensions are 2.4m Long, 1.4m wide and 1.4m deep. It is small compared to the ones in the forum and people will moan at me if I say I am going to keep my 4 (6") Koi in there? Would like a bigger pond but the garden is very small and I have done well to get it this size without taking over the whole garden.

    I have fitted the bottom drain and dug a tunnel under the wall to connect the 4" BD pipe to an Eazypod which is to be sited next to the wall and gravity fed. The internal walls are not great and I did the best I can to smooth out all the jagged parts with cement. I do hope it will hold once the water is in? Today I was gonna work on the Pond base to get it ready for the liner protector and then the underlay. But then I started thinking about the return pipes coming back to the Pond. At first I was going to have 2x 1 1/2" pipes coming over the back wall and into the pond, but would it be better to have the 2 pipes coming through the wall and below Pond water level? In order to do that I will need to cut 2 channels in the existing blocks for pipes to run thru the walls and then lay another layer of blocks over the 5 layers wall. I don't mind doing this if it's better than having the return pipes coming over the wall. Also to have pipes coming through the walls and into the rubber liner how do I minimise leaks in the long term? What fittings will I need? Also if I am to go this route, I might as well consider fitting a skimmer to the wall too? Arrr...more work and time, I am hoping to get this build done asap before winter comes. The easy and quick option is just stick to my original plan and put the liner in now and connect up the pipework for the filter/pump/UV and have 2 pipes coming over the back wall. What shall I do. Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers, John


    Last edited by Koikoiho; 10-10-2018 at 11:41 AM.

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  3. #2
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    A single under water return should suffice for that size pond so I would go for that. Incorporating a skimmer would be nice but that would be more involved to connect it to the same filtration system you would need that to be in 4" to. As for the fittings for the return I would go for a flanged tank connector where you glue either side to the liner.

    If you site the return near the corner it will naturally form a circular motion in the pond which can help avoid dead spots and if you go for a skimmer you need to plan that where you put the food in is downstream of the skimmer so the fish have time to get the food before it gets skimmed away!
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

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  5. #3
    Thank you for your inputs. In order to complete the build before winter, I have decided to keep it as it is and not to have the return into the wall but a simple waterfall/cascade on the back wall. I will try to put the liner protector and underlay in as soon we get some good dry weather hopefully this weekend!

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  7. #4
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    That's OK but putting a threw wall return in at this stage (you could put it through just one block down) is so much easier than it will be once the pond is filled. Waterfalls cool the pond - you will want a buy pass on it anyway. A through wall return is so much nicer than pipe draped over the edge of the pond.
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

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  9. #5
    Yes agreed thru wall return is a neater option. Can I have this and another pipe going to a waterfall/cascade too? I presumed this is done by splitting the return pipe from the outlet of the pump with a tee and a valve fitted to the section going into the waterfall/cascade to isolate it during winter?

  10. #6
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    You would need 2 valves or a three way valve - which can get a bit expensive. If it will always be either or, then something I have done in the past is to use a simple rubber 90deg and set it up so that if its positioned one way it goes to the waterfall and tristed round the other it goes to the through wall return - you will still need a valve on the through wall return though obviously.
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

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  12. #7
    I have bought the 1 1/2" pipe to use as the return pipe from the Jebao 10,000 litre pump. Do I cut a small section from it to insert it thru the wall via a cut section of the block or do I use a flanged tank connector thru the cut section of the block and connect to the return pipe?

  13. #8
    Ok bought a kk flanged tank connector to fit into block work and struggling to cut that block out. Angled grind and drilled holes around the mortar and used chisel and hammered away all day and still wont budge! Must be a easy way to do it? Chisel the block and try break it up in pieces?IMG_20181019_144130.jpg

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  15. #9
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    large angle grinder with a stone cutting disk on,or you could break the block in the middle,andi

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    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    For a 1.5" connection I would have just have drilled a hole using a holesaw. I actually have a couple of 4" holes to drill through brick and those are hard work! You can hire the kit if you haven't got a suitable drill & bit.
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

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  19. #11
    Thanks guys. I finally managed to get the block out using a crowbar! I also cut the section for the pipe too. Hard work but I think it's worth it to do it right with a return pipe thru the wall and under water level. I should have planned it from the beginning but hey I am learning as I am going along! Dreading the next bit though - cutting the rubber liner to fit the bottom drain and this flanged connector.
    IMG_20181019_181326.jpg

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  21. #12
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    Well done - looks a neat job. I have 2 x 4" flanged connectors plus a 2" connector to retro fit on to my pond - not looking forward to it at all!
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

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  23. #13
    Thanks! It looks pretty neat and lucky not to disturbed the adjacent blocks too. I haven't thought about using a holesaw not sure how well they cut thru a 210mm thick block though. I am sure those diamond pro cutters will have no problem cutting 4"
    Last edited by Koikoiho; 19-10-2018 at 09:03 PM.

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  25. #14
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion pip895's Avatar
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    We had to drill a 4" hole through a 7n 215mm block on the house recently took a little time but not a problem. For me the issue on the pond, is access - need to get digging lol.
    6000g in ground koi pond
    +3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
    29 koi (40 to 65cm)
    Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
    JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
    Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)

  26. Thanks andikoi, freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
  27. #15
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    you think your worried about a hole for return and for bottom drain,ive just done 2 bottom drains,a skimmer and 2 returns and 2 windows 1 4ftx3ft and a 3ft x 2ft,i was cacking mi pants as the saying goes,my advice plenty of sealant when doing it then once dry put some on all joins between liner and flange and inlet rear,same for bd,andi

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  29. #16
    Haha, I must have watched Ponddigger on Youtube doing his BD a million times over and I am still sh@ts scared cocking it up The bit I most worried about is locating the holes under the liner and puncturing the liner to screw in the screws!

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  31. #17
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    Ok so i advise using ct1 after i used my trysted ha6 and it didnt work,the ct1 worked first time, next the easiest way to do the screws is this, put liner in and as straight as possible then cut a cross in the liner over center of bd just big enough to get you hand in, then get 2 small nails twice length of your screws and cut the head off each, now put 1 under liner into a screw hole opposite sides in bd, then push liner down, now you have a guide for your clamping ring to go over. Andi

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  33. #18
    Cool idea to use a nail as a guide, but have to make sure it doesn't catch the liner before I flatten the liner in position. Thanks, will have a go soon once the weather improves!

  34. #19
    Hi all, just a quick update on the build, I didn't have time to continue the build, so left everything on hold until Spring 2019. Just want to say thanks to all for your help and advice. Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2019!

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  36. #20
    Senior Member Rank = Jussai RS2OOO's Avatar
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    For a first time pond build I think your workmanship looks really professional.

    Making holes in the liner for the bottom drain and tank connector sounds scarier in theory than it is in practice. Be methodical, have the right tools around, a pair of disposable gloves and and plenty of rag to wipe up any excess sealant. With Marker pen draw lines on the inside of the bottom drain to line up with the screw holes, makes finding them through the liner much easier.

    Looking forward to seeing the completed project in spring!

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