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Thread: Today’s the day...
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07-11-2018, 07:54 PM #321
I left mine off until I filled up, the airline was full of water. It just blew out and after a half an hour it was a full on air eruption.
Is it open at the pump end below the water level then?
You could connect pump up and leave on for a day or so and check level again.
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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09-11-2018, 05:27 PM #322
Has anyone mounted their pumps vertically to make the pipework easier?
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09-11-2018, 07:22 PM #323
I’ve got a small 7,000 laid flat (turned on the side 90deg) and my thinking was that the torsional loads from the motor were still on the same plane (?) so I went for it.
Might be b*llocks but made sense to my non-engineer mind!
Not 100% sure if I’d try vertical though as that definitely changes where the loads are placed I’d guess.
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09-11-2018, 07:25 PM #324
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09-11-2018, 07:34 PM #325
How bizarre!!! It is a ball ache you can’t reverse them. Especially because I mounted mine the wrong way round first time...oops. Luckily I realised before I commissioned it.
That would have given me a bloody surprise when water would have launched out the top of the filter!!!!
I have a bit of a weird up / down / up pipe run on mine because of the above cock up and I have to say I’ve noticed no difference or issues with it.
I’ve probably lost a bit of power/pressure but nothing that’s caused a problem at all.
You can see it on the right of this pic. Goes up from the pump, across and then down to UV and then along the back wall and up back into the pond.
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09-11-2018, 07:36 PM #326
It can give you issues with purging air out of the pump in my experience. I have run one (blue eco) successfully on its side for a few weeks whilst sorting out other pipe runs and it seemed fine - In that case it was pumping horizontally for a short distance then up to a return near the surface of the pond so venting wasn't a problem.
6000g in ground koi pond
+3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
29 koi (40 to 65cm)
Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)
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09-11-2018, 07:47 PM #327
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09-11-2018, 09:10 PM #328
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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09-11-2018, 09:40 PM #329
I put a bit of bubble wrap on the concrete and literally ran it on its side so that the output went out horizontally. I only intended it to be like that for a few hrs but it ended up being there for 10 days or so - worked fine - no odd noises or issues at all - it wasn't working all that hard though.
6000g in ground koi pond
+3000g lily/Anoxic pond attached
29 koi (40 to 65cm)
Bottom drain, Mid water & Skimmer to Drum
JBR boichamber->Blue eco 500 pump ->below surface return.
Blue Eco 240 -> Large MB -> Waterfall -> Planted Anoxic pond (25 baskets)
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Skoosh88 Thanked / Liked this Post
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09-11-2018, 11:57 PM #330
To be fair it shouldn’t really matter that much what orientation it’s in. The main force is on the impeller running on a bearing pushing water in whatever direction it is in. For once I’m just trying to keep everything tidy and neat and it just looks a bit rubbish a pump on its side lol but it might have to be the case. The alternative is lots of bends. Have these pump manufactures not clocked on that gravity fed systems are in and they need to up their game?!? I feel a revolution coming on Comrads!
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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10-11-2018, 12:18 AM #331
Lol my Auga’s have a rotating outlet which makes life a bit easier.
Worked out well as one I was able to lay flat and the other rises vertically.
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10-11-2018, 09:28 AM #332
i just watched a video on the auga and its the whole pump that turns and the foot part stays still,so in theory turning any pump is the same,andi
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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10-11-2018, 10:01 AM #333
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10-11-2018, 10:11 AM #334
Think I’m going to mount it vertical on a block of wood or something, it just makes life easier
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13-11-2018, 11:14 AM #335
Think I’m plumbed in , although I forgot to solvent the spray bar pipe but will do that later. After all that big talk I ended up mounting the pump horizontally...winter is drawing in so maybe a job for next spring me thinks. BTW the open tee from the bottom drains will be for my trickle in when I get round to it. I’ve drained down to fix all the leaks, turned out that the back plate of the skimmer has cracked at the weld but nothing a drop of the black stuff won’t fix, window has passed the test which I’m pleased about.
One thing though, I tried to open the ball valve on the skimmer line and it would not budge, I tightened the unions with a strap wrench. I had to back them off until they were hand tight before I could move them, it’s as if anything more than hand tight is squeezing the valve to the point it can’t turn, is this normal??
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13-11-2018, 11:18 AM #336
Next thought is the trickle in, I don’t really want to go solid pipe but I’m worried about ice, what’s the best insulated flexible hose in the market for the job?
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13-11-2018, 11:34 AM #337
looking good skoosh,ball valves can be adjusted by an inner ring on the valve part,ive got a 4" one i need to look at as that did same but i havent got round to it yet lol,it may need the ring backing off a touch,if you take the unions off you should see the ring on valve on each side of ball,as to your trickle in are you not worried about pressure from bd water pushing up,your skimmer looks like a jbr one they have had a few issues of late with their welds,you could put your trickle in skimmer,andi
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13-11-2018, 11:39 AM #338
I’m going to put a bit of 4” pipe in the tee coming up above the water line so there will be a gap between bottom drain flow and trickle in. I did think about putting it in skimmer but looking at it there’s no room, the only place I can put it is through the side wall but then I won’t be able to lift basket...
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13-11-2018, 12:26 PM #339
why not just use hosepipe and put it inside some pipe insulation,think hose is about 15mm and you can buy the pipe insulation in rolls i believe,andi
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13-11-2018, 04:43 PM #340
The best pipe IMO is the one thats designed for the job- MDPE. Thats what the mains supply to your house is more than likely made of. Its incredibly tough stuff and wouldnt be easily damaged by frost. Bury as much as possible underground and just stick the standard cheap foam insulating noodles round any above ground bits.
Although flexible it wont bend round tight curves so you need 90 degree joints in it. I used the 20mm one to my filter house. The 25mm is overkill for the kind of flows you would need. I just stuck a T then 2 standard garden tap fittings on the filter house end of it- 1 to connect to the trickle and one I have a hose pipe on for hosing off the drum waste chute etc.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
Running heater at low temp?
Covering the pond with polycarb should be enough to stop water temps dipping below 6C for the most...