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Thread: Today’s the day...
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08-09-2018, 11:33 PM #21
i get mine from toolstation,aquaflow i think it is,states on tin all pressure,ive never had any issues with it,and just used on my bd pipework on both drains and will use on all my 2" pressure aswel,andi
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Skoosh88 Thanked / Liked this Post
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09-09-2018, 08:50 AM #22
Thanks andi, ended up going for a tub of flopas from screwfix in the end.
todays objective is to mark out the pond in the hole, locate where the bottom drains are going and get the bottom drains welded and in place. After that it’s carry on building the kids climbing frame which is taking longer than expected, been doing a bit in the evenings when they are in bed but can’t believe how quickly the nights are drawing in
scott
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09-09-2018, 08:55 AM #23
that will be for you to hide in after misses sees how much pond cost haha,your first mistake looking at instructions,your a man we dont need them lol,andi
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09-09-2018, 09:00 AM #24
Never thought of that, maybe the Mrs is going to kick me out the house when it’s completed, at least I have the option of a Wendy House or the climbing frame to live in!
Normally I would agree with you but with 93 pages of instructions it would probably end up looking like a a pile of wood for a bonfire if I winged it!
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09-09-2018, 06:35 PM #25
Plumbing laid and solvent welded, just need to bag over the open pipes ready for concrete, only wasted one length of pipe by getting ahead of myself and cutting it too short
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bigcarpchaser, Gray Thanked / Liked this Post
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09-09-2018, 11:41 PM #26
Today’s the day...
When I put my BD in I got a mixer full of concrete and put it all around the BD, low down, and also along the pipe as far as I could. That held the BD in place nicely for the base to be poured. Defo worth doing to keep the BDs in a fixed location when you drop the base concrete in. Gives it some weight and stability so it doesn’t move.
Picked up this trick off the guys on this forum and it worked spot on!
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Gray; 09-09-2018 at 11:43 PM.
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Skoosh88 Thanked / Liked this Post
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10-09-2018, 02:19 AM #27
Skoosh,
Also make sure you dig away the soil underneath the BD itself and surround it with concrete. If there was by any chance some ground heave (movement) and the BD moved or even if simply the concrete doesn't adhere to the BD, water WILL slip down the side of the BD and seep away and through the soil underneath. Concrete surrounding the BD itself is more waterproof. On Grays photo you will see his BD sitting on a mound of concrete.
A wee note on your two drains. It occurs to me that the flow with both your drains running at the same time will be really slow in the pipes i.e. half the flow that you would get through only one BD and pipe. A four inch pipe will easily carry around 1100 litres a minute in a low pressure gravity flow situation, two of them double that. So your setup will be superb at getting water out of the pond and into the filter. Part of what you are trying to achieve is a good sook across the floor of the pond from the BD, to pull in the waste and push it up the vertical pipe but this will effectively be halved by using two BD's. A simple way to envisage this is to think about a point somewhere in the space between the two drains where the theoritical draw in either direction is nil since one BD will cancel the other out. You may also find heavier objects (like gravel) would not travel along and up the pipe due to a low flow rate and could settle at say the upwards bend. The ability to shut of your two drains independantly and run only one (even if it is only to clean it out) will be a good idea.
Kenny
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10-09-2018, 12:24 PM #28
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Gray Thanked / Liked this Post
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10-09-2018, 12:31 PM #29
Kenny
I’ve raised the bottom drains off the ground with a couple of squares of wood, going to do the same as Gray and pour some concrete around the drain so it should wrap around the drain, I presume a 3-1 mix is best? The builder is getting a bit worried about floating it up above the flange on the bottom drain, do you think I could bring the concrete from the ground up over the flange and completely cover the bottom drain before they pour the concrete, or will this create a weak spot?
I see what you mean about the flow, I plan to have a ball valve where the pipe work comes out the ground and where it enters the filter.
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bigcarpchaser, Gray Thanked / Liked this Post
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10-09-2018, 11:50 PM #30
Today’s the day...
3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement for the concrete is what I used and it worked well.
Just one suggestion mate, I’d get rid of the wood under the drains and replace with bricks instead. The wood will rot over time and might leave a void and that will definitely be a weak spot. Chuck some bricks or slithers of brick under them and that ain’t gonna rot!Last edited by Gray; 11-09-2018 at 07:36 AM.
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11-09-2018, 12:25 AM #31
Concrete mix for usual cement is 3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement, adding more cement simply weakens the mix (converesly). 5:1 for a ballast/cement mix.
Completely cover over the hole on the top of your BD with duct tape, any getting in there and hardening could be a nightmare..
Looking like Grays photo is fine, concrete coming higher would create a weak spot. And don't smooth it, give the new concrete something to key onto. Get rid of the wood.
I am also assuming that you are putting some form of strenthening through your concrete base e.g. grid wire (as per Gray's) or 2" plastic/stainless fibres.
Two ball valves on your pipes one for each.
KennyLast edited by Handy Kenny; 11-09-2018 at 12:37 AM.
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Skoosh88 Thanked / Liked this Post
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11-09-2018, 07:33 AM #32
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Handy Kenny Thanked / Liked this Post
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11-09-2018, 08:44 AM #33
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11-09-2018, 07:09 PM #34
Great shout guys, dumped a pile of concrete under the drain and over the the pipes at the end. Not only is it going nowhere but I know that the flange on the bottom drain will stay level. I’ve duck taped up the hole just in case but I’ve left the buckets on to give the builder something to aim for when floating the mix. Went for a C35 mix which seems to be the norm reading through a few threads, builder is going to chuck down some mesh. Big pour tomorrow and fibreglass booked for the 24th yikes!
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Gray Thanked / Liked this Post
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11-09-2018, 07:44 PM #35
Has anyone put celotex on the floor of their pond?? I was planning on it until I just looked at an old thread and they only did the walls??
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11-09-2018, 07:52 PM #36
Only just noticed but I’d get the 4 inch upright pipes in where you have got the bags in the corner. Just leave them sticking up far enough. Then you just cut to desired length afterwards
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11-09-2018, 07:58 PM #37
Yer...just use a board over it to walk on else you’ll leave the odd footprint.
Get the Travis Perkins equivalent as it’s a bit cheaper and exactly the same.
Foil tape over the joints.
I’ve got some 100mm stuff in the garage if you want some to make corner fillets. I tried and failed to cut nice triangles but those with better skills than me (not hard) have managed to do it ok
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Skoosh88 Thanked / Liked this Post
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11-09-2018, 08:33 PM #38
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Gray Thanked / Liked this Post
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11-09-2018, 08:35 PM #39
Couldn’t see any on the TP website, was in there today as well and bought some foil tape. The builder was going to do the celotex for me but TBH I am getting the feeling he just says ‘yea no problem’ then when it comes to it things change so might do it myself if I have time. What adhesive do you use?
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11-09-2018, 08:42 PM #40
Recticel is the stuff and I used their cheapo grab adhesive. Big blob in each corner and one in the middle of half a sheet plus a few more if you have any gaps to fill.
Once it's glassed it's not going anywhere.
Score it with a blade then snap it, then just run the blade through the foil the other side. Beware, it's proper dusty and dries your skin out. If I were to do it regularly I'd wear a mask.
Every day feeding container?
Good shout, I'll have a look at Takazumi :)