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  1. #21
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    i get mine from toolstation,aquaflow i think it is,states on tin all pressure,ive never had any issues with it,and just used on my bd pipework on both drains and will use on all my 2" pressure aswel,andi

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  3. #22
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Thanks andi, ended up going for a tub of flopas from screwfix in the end.

    todays objective is to mark out the pond in the hole, locate where the bottom drains are going and get the bottom drains welded and in place. After that it’s carry on building the kids climbing frame which is taking longer than expected, been doing a bit in the evenings when they are in bed but can’t believe how quickly the nights are drawing in

    scott
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  4. #23
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    that will be for you to hide in after misses sees how much pond cost haha,your first mistake looking at instructions,your a man we dont need them lol,andi

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  6. #24
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andikoi View Post
    that will be for you to hide in after misses sees how much pond cost haha,your first mistake looking at instructions,your a man we dont need them lol,andi
    Never thought of that, maybe the Mrs is going to kick me out the house when itís completed, at least I have the option of a Wendy House or the climbing frame to live in!

    Normally I would agree with you but with 93 pages of instructions it would probably end up looking like a a pile of wood for a bonfire if I winged it!


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  8. #25
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Plumbing laid and solvent welded, just need to bag over the open pipes ready for concrete, only wasted one length of pipe by getting ahead of myself and cutting it too short


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  10. #26
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Todayís the day...

    Quote Originally Posted by Skoosh88 View Post


    Plumbing laid and solvent welded, just need to bag over the open pipes ready for concrete, only wasted one length of pipe by getting ahead of myself and cutting it too short


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    When I put my BD in I got a mixer full of concrete and put it all around the BD, low down, and also along the pipe as far as I could. That held the BD in place nicely for the base to be poured. Defo worth doing to keep the BDs in a fixed location when you drop the base concrete in. Gives it some weight and stability so it doesnít move.

    Picked up this trick off the guys on this forum and it worked spot on!

    Hope that helps.

    Last edited by Gray; 09-09-2018 at 11:43 PM.

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  12. #27
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Handy Kenny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoosh88 View Post


    Plumbing laid and solvent welded, just need to bag over the open pipes ready for concrete, only wasted one length of pipe by getting ahead of myself and cutting it too short


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    Skoosh,

    Also make sure you dig away the soil underneath the BD itself and surround it with concrete. If there was by any chance some ground heave (movement) and the BD moved or even if simply the concrete doesn't adhere to the BD, water WILL slip down the side of the BD and seep away and through the soil underneath. Concrete surrounding the BD itself is more waterproof. On Grays photo you will see his BD sitting on a mound of concrete.

    A wee note on your two drains. It occurs to me that the flow with both your drains running at the same time will be really slow in the pipes i.e. half the flow that you would get through only one BD and pipe. A four inch pipe will easily carry around 1100 litres a minute in a low pressure gravity flow situation, two of them double that. So your setup will be superb at getting water out of the pond and into the filter. Part of what you are trying to achieve is a good sook across the floor of the pond from the BD, to pull in the waste and push it up the vertical pipe but this will effectively be halved by using two BD's. A simple way to envisage this is to think about a point somewhere in the space between the two drains where the theoritical draw in either direction is nil since one BD will cancel the other out. You may also find heavier objects (like gravel) would not travel along and up the pipe due to a low flow rate and could settle at say the upwards bend. The ability to shut of your two drains independantly and run only one (even if it is only to clean it out) will be a good idea.

    Kenny

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  14. #28
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray View Post
    When I put my BD in I got a mixer full of concrete and put it all around the BD, low down, and also along the pipe as far as I could. That held the BD in place nicely for the base to be poured. Defo worth doing to keep the BDs in a fixed location when you drop the base concrete in. Gives it some weight and stability so it doesnít move.

    Picked up this trick off the guys on this forum and it worked spot on!

    Hope that helps.

    Good idea , removals people left my wheelbarrow at the old house but will head down and get one and some cement tomorrow. Concrete comes on Wednesday


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  16. #29
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handy Kenny View Post
    Skoosh,

    Also make sure you dig away the soil underneath the BD itself and surround it with concrete. If there was by any chance some ground heave (movement) and the BD moved or even if simply the concrete doesn't adhere to the BD, water WILL slip down the side of the BD and seep away and through the soil underneath. Concrete surrounding the BD itself is more waterproof. On Grays photo you will see his BD sitting on a mound of concrete.

    A wee note on your two drains. It occurs to me that the flow with both your drains running at the same time will be really slow in the pipes i.e. half the flow that you would get through only one BD and pipe. A four inch pipe will easily carry around 1100 litres a minute in a low pressure gravity flow situation, two of them double that. So your setup will be superb at getting water out of the pond and into the filter. Part of what you are trying to achieve is a good sook across the floor of the pond from the BD, to pull in the waste and push it up the vertical pipe but this will effectively be halved by using two BD's. A simple way to envisage this is to think about a point somewhere in the space between the two drains where the theoritical draw in either direction is nil since one BD will cancel the other out. You may also find heavier objects (like gravel) would not travel along and up the pipe due to a low flow rate and could settle at say the upwards bend. The ability to shut of your two drains independantly and run only one (even if it is only to clean it out) will be a good idea.

    Kenny
    Kenny

    Iíve raised the bottom drains off the ground with a couple of squares of wood, going to do the same as Gray and pour some concrete around the drain so it should wrap around the drain, I presume a 3-1 mix is best? The builder is getting a bit worried about floating it up above the flange on the bottom drain, do you think I could bring the concrete from the ground up over the flange and completely cover the bottom drain before they pour the concrete, or will this create a weak spot?

    I see what you mean about the flow, I plan to have a ball valve where the pipe work comes out the ground and where it enters the filter.


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  18. #30
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Todayís the day...

    Quote Originally Posted by Skoosh88 View Post
    Kenny

    Iíve raised the bottom drains off the ground with a couple of squares of wood, going to do the same as Gray and pour some concrete around the drain so it should wrap around the drain, I presume a 3-1 mix is best? The builder is getting a bit worried about floating it up above the flange on the bottom drain, do you think I could bring the concrete from the ground up over the flange and completely cover the bottom drain before they pour the concrete, or will this create a weak spot?

    I see what you mean about the flow, I plan to have a ball valve where the pipe work comes out the ground and where it enters the filter.


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    3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement for the concrete is what I used and it worked well.

    Just one suggestion mate, Iíd get rid of the wood under the drains and replace with bricks instead. The wood will rot over time and might leave a void and that will definitely be a weak spot. Chuck some bricks or slithers of brick under them and that ainít gonna rot!
    Last edited by Gray; 11-09-2018 at 07:36 AM.

  19. #31
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Handy Kenny's Avatar
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    Concrete mix for usual cement is 3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement, adding more cement simply weakens the mix (converesly). 5:1 for a ballast/cement mix.

    Completely cover over the hole on the top of your BD with duct tape, any getting in there and hardening could be a nightmare..

    Looking like Grays photo is fine, concrete coming higher would create a weak spot. And don't smooth it, give the new concrete something to key onto. Get rid of the wood.

    I am also assuming that you are putting some form of strenthening through your concrete base e.g. grid wire (as per Gray's) or 2" plastic/stainless fibres.

    Two ball valves on your pipes one for each.

    Kenny
    Last edited by Handy Kenny; 11-09-2018 at 12:37 AM.

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  21. #32
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Gray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handy Kenny View Post
    Concrete mix for usual cement is 3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement, adding more cement simply weakens the mix (converesly). 5:1 for a ballast/cement

    Kenny
    Kennyís spot on. Looked back on my post and missed the sand out...it was late.

    Edited my post just to be sure.

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  23. #33
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handy Kenny View Post
    Concrete mix for usual cement is 3 aggregate, 2 sand and 1 cement, adding more cement simply weakens the mix (converesly). 5:1 for a ballast/cement mix.

    Completely cover over the hole on the top of your BD with duct tape, any getting in there and hardening could be a nightmare..

    Looking like Grays photo is fine, concrete coming higher would create a weak spot. And don't smooth it, give the new concrete something to key onto. Get rid of the wood.

    I am also assuming that you are putting some form of strenthening through your concrete base e.g. grid wire (as per Gray's) or 2" plastic/stainless fibres.

    Two ball valves on your pipes one for each.

    Kenny
    Good shout Kenny forgot about the aggregate, yea will get rid of the wood. Yes I have some grid wire to put down before the pour, I presume halfway up would be optimum.

    I will have 2 valves on each pipe


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  24. #34
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Great shout guys, dumped a pile of concrete under the drain and over the the pipes at the end. Not only is it going nowhere but I know that the flange on the bottom drain will stay level. Iíve duck taped up the hole just in case but Iíve left the buckets on to give the builder something to aim for when floating the mix. Went for a C35 mix which seems to be the norm reading through a few threads, builder is going to chuck down some mesh. Big pour tomorrow and fibreglass booked for the 24th yikes!


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  26. #35
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Has anyone put celotex on the floor of their pond?? I was planning on it until I just looked at an old thread and they only did the walls??


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  27. #36
    Only just noticed but I’d get the 4 inch upright pipes in where you have got the bags in the corner. Just leave them sticking up far enough. Then you just cut to desired length afterwards

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  29. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Skoosh88 View Post
    Has anyone put celotex on the floor of their pond?? I was planning on it until I just looked at an old thread and they only did the walls??


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    Yer...just use a board over it to walk on else youíll leave the odd footprint.
    Get the Travis Perkins equivalent as itís a bit cheaper and exactly the same.
    Foil tape over the joints.
    Iíve got some 100mm stuff in the garage if you want some to make corner fillets. I tried and failed to cut nice triangles but those with better skills than me (not hard) have managed to do it ok


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  31. #38
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liam77 View Post
    Only just noticed but Iíd get the 4 inch upright pipes in where you have got the bags in the corner. Just leave them sticking up far enough. Then you just cut to desired length afterwards
    I measured and it should about 5-10cm above the floor. Not sure where they pipe work was going to finish so was going to wait


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  33. #39
    Senior Member Rank = Nanasai Skoosh88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    Yer...just use a board over it to walk on else youíll leave the odd footprint.
    Get the Travis Perkins equivalent as itís a bit cheaper and exactly the same.
    Foil tape over the joints.
    Iíve got some 100mm stuff in the garage if you want some to make corner fillets. I tried and failed to cut nice triangles but those with better skills than me (not hard) have managed to do it ok


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    Couldnít see any on the TP website, was in there today as well and bought some foil tape. The builder was going to do the celotex for me but TBH I am getting the feeling he just says Ďyea no problemí then when it comes to it things change so might do it myself if I have time. What adhesive do you use?


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  34. #40
    Recticel is the stuff and I used their cheapo grab adhesive. Big blob in each corner and one in the middle of half a sheet plus a few more if you have any gaps to fill.
    Once it's glassed it's not going anywhere.
    Score it with a blade then snap it, then just run the blade through the foil the other side. Beware, it's proper dusty and dries your skin out. If I were to do it regularly I'd wear a mask.

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