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  1. #101
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion RoyLittle0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    Buy from Jason at JBR direct Kenny, just tell him to be a bit more careful about his welding
    And packing lol

    I was talking to the guy who glassed my pond and he said he had the same problem with a spindrifter bd
    4600 Gallon Concrete Block and Fiberglass
    2100 mm x 710 mm Infinity Window 32mm thick glass
    2 x Aerated Bottom Drains and Skimmer
    Filtreau HiFlow 30 Drum Filter
    Bio Chamber - 140 litres K1
    Bakki Shower - 30 KG Sakura Far Infrared Media
    2 x 18,000 lh pumps
    Heated from house boiler through a heat exchanger
    Idealseal MS290

    My Pond Build

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  3. #102
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Hi kenny i bought my spindrifter from absolute koi. If its any help

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  4. #103
    Flow rates are for steel pipe, can’t see that it would be different for plastic pipe.

    https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/s...ies-d_640.html

  5. #104
    Picture 295.jpg
    Here's my waterfall that I built 8 years ago,oak has gone now but still going strong.
    Picture 296.jpg
    The water goes into a trough and then is pumped back upto top pond,no filter as only has goldfish with plants.

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  7. #105
    Oooo fancy, may I ask what flow rate is your waterfall pump?


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  9. #106
    Thanks not sure of flow rate but I have a badu 14 pushing water back up behind the waterfall under pond to an upstand in the pond which does make a good current.I will upload a video if i work how to do it.
    I have a float switch in trough doing auto top up as you lose some water from spray and wind.
    Waterfall does need a clean every few weeks with a stainless steel swimming pool brush as aglae does form but it comes up as good as new.
    The slate is nailed like you would on a roof but i have put silicone under the btm end and then on all the joints.

  10. #107
    Ended up ordering a 110mm bundle from Alternative Aquatics - Spindrifter Aeration Products. Aerated Bottom Drain. Koi Pond Supplies.

    Here is my sketch up of the pipes. Decided to bring the pipe up before the red bush and across as it would be a pain in the ass to dig under the red bush







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  11. #108
    Got my spindrifter, doesn’t seem too robust for something I’m going to bury in concrete?

    Should I put some sealant on the inner side just in case?






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  13. #109
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    I would mate. Better safe then sorry.
    Thats if your keeping it.
    I would be sending that back. If that was my bottom drain.



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  14. #110
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    it doesnt look like its been welded together to me,if thats a spindrifter then im glad i got a jbr one,the finish on that is disgusting,andi

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  16. #111
    Uhh, too late... already solvent welded pipes. It’s pretty tight assuming there is welding within the pipe joint. The outside has some sort of glue which seems consistent with pictures available on the net.

    I also checked with the supplier;

    Apparently they believe this was the best way to do it:

    Weld the inside of the BD base and
    3 welds on the outside of the BD joint (1 within the joint, 2 around that).

    The other way they mentioned of doing a bottom drain is to weld both sides of the pipe joint, however they will have to weld the outside of the BD base. Resulting in a less level base.

    I can apply sealant, but not necessary as they believe the 3 outer welds are sufficient.


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  18. #112
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    I would still sealent all them gaps just to make sure.

    Then dry test it with water. Before concreteing into the base. In other words stand it up. the pipe and drain
    Fill with water. And see if it leaks.
    Hope i am not sounding like i am asking to suck eggs.
    Just trying to help.


    I have a spindrifter. And the workmanship was spot on.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny000666 View Post
    Uhh, too late... already solvent welded pipes. It’s pretty tight assuming there is welding within the pipe joint. The outside has some sort of glue which seems consistent with pictures available on the net.

    I also checked with the supplier;

    Apparently they believe this was the best way to do it:

    Weld the inside of the BD base and
    3 welds on the outside of the BD joint (1 within the joint, 2 around that).

    The other way they mentioned of doing a bottom drain is to weld both sides of the pipe joint, however they will have to weld the outside of the BD base. Resulting in a less level base.

    I can apply sealant, but not necessary as they believe the 3 outer welds are sufficient.


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  19. #113
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    I am sure my spindrifter was made by a mould lol.
    I aint going to dig it out to find out lol
    Haha.
    Quote Originally Posted by andikoi View Post
    it doesnt look like its been welded together to me,if thats a spindrifter then im glad i got a jbr one,the finish on that is disgusting,andi
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  20. #114
    Quote Originally Posted by freddyboy View Post
    I would still sealent all them gaps just to make sure.

    Then dry test it with water. Before concreteing into the base. In other words stand it up. the pipe and drain
    Fill with water. And see if it leaks.
    Hope i am not sounding like i am asking to suck eggs.
    Just trying to help.


    I have a spindrifter. And the workmanship was spot on.


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    Yeh I’ll get it sealed in the final finish.

    Just testing it now, wanted to test the BD as well. Put a bin bag over the top and used the BD liner clamp over it. Not working so well as there are trickle leaks at the side of the bag. But leaks are slow enough to possibly confirm if my joints have leaks.



    Also attached a pic of the triple weld on the 110 pipe joint. It’s pretty dry here.



    Once the water level drops to height of top of BD, I’ll wrap a piece of tissue around that joint to test for dampness.


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  22. #115
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Nice one mate. At least you now know.
    You can then make it right.
    And that will be one big job out the way.

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  23. #116
    Finally, the pond base is in.

    7 hours of mixing 2 tonnes of ballast!

    9am:


    4pm:


    6pm



    My pond might be finished before my builders come back and finish the extension they started 4 months ago!


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  25. #117
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Supreme Champion Frimley Koi keeper's Avatar
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    Looking good Kenny

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  27. #118
    Coming on Kenny.


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  29. #119
    Senior Member Rank = Supreme Champion freddyboy's Avatar
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    Looking good kenny.

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  30. #120
    Time to get the formwork up for the walls and prep for the concrete walls to be poured.

    To mix myself I’ll need about 2.5 tonnes of ballast and 20 bags of concrete which comes to about £170. Considering it took 7 hours to mix 1ish tonnes for my slab, I don’t think i can face doing double that amount in a day.

    Shopping around for ready mix, general quotes have come in around £300 for 1.5m cubed. But finally found a decent quote for £200 all in. For £30 difference, seems ready mix is a no brainier. Hard part is to get enough bodies to run 60ish barrow loads across 20 meters and up an elevation of 2 meters from the ground level of concrete truck in 30 minutes!


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