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  1. #121
    Pond walls are in!

    Blocks and formwork to hold in the concrete:


    Blocks and formwork out, walls are freestanding!


    Now time to lay 2 courses of Blocks for that bit more height.

    I know itís sounds backwards as you are meant to keep water in a pond, however and suggestions for getting the water out?



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  3. #122
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion Andre Asagi's Avatar
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    Only read the first couple of posts so pardon me if this has been suggested....The obvious solution would be to raise the filter on either blocks or a concrete base.

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  5. #123
    Ah sorry, I meant whilst the build is still on going. Seems I used too much water to aid in curing the concrete and itís now all stuck in the pond and err.. making a pond

    Guess I will be investing in a good old fashioned mop and bucket!


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  7. #124
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    have you not got a bottom drain in,if so could put a little pump in that,or you could use a wet'n'dry vac,andi

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  9. #125
    Extreme Koi Member Rank = Mature Champion Andre Asagi's Avatar
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    What a good read this thread has been. I thought the OP had been scared off at one point with the League Of Gentlemen part. I kept expecting one of you to do a Papa Lazarou....Dave...You're My Wife Now.

    Anyway....my post above was a reply to the original issue of filter height but you have moved past that by now.

    I would do as Andi suggested since the bottom drain will i think be the lowest part of the pond. Just give it a good clean afterwards. How much excess water do you have in the pond?

    You can get a cheap sump pump from Toolstation/Screwfix for £40ish or get an aquarium pump in there if space is tight. Either way, you'll have to do the last inch or so by hand.

    I can't wait to see this one up and running.

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  11. #126
    So, the easy way to get the water out was to let it dry about an inch disappeared after a few days or so.

    Then the block work started! My finished height is about 600mm above current ground level. But when I raise the ground level it would be about 500mm.





    I was taking bigcarpchaserís idea of putting a 2m x 400mm window, hence the hole. But missus reconsidered and doesnít like the idea of a seaworld in our garden.... I guess Iíll close off the hole in such a way I can retrofit one later in life ;P

    Iíll be rendering next!

    I would like some advice from you guys about the finished waterproofing. Iíve seen how this guy is using pond paint (Koi pond construction - how to build a perfect Koi Pond). I was originally going for a liner, but now like the idea of pond paint, and there are different colours to choose! Light blue or maybe white!



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  12. #127
    Senior Member Rank = Hassai Ajm's Avatar
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    Imo every colour will go green and I have heard the paint starts the flake but have had no experience of this just what has been said

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    Johnathan

  13. #128
    Also, the BD makers donít recommend me switching from a liner to paint, as the BD was tailor made for liner and Iíll have to do something about the holes that were drilled into the flange although itís concreted in at the moment...

    Ah well, still some time before Iím there though.


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  14. #129
    If you paint youíll need to render, save the bother and the cost and stick to a decent quality liner. Itíll go brown anyway no doubt. Stick some insulation in instead of render, jobís a goodun.
    Glad to see your cracking on Kenny.
    Really looking forward to seeing it come to fruition.


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  16. #130
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    get a box weld liner made to fit,a normal liner is a pain to get right in corners,box weld you measure they make you drop it in,andi

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  18. #131
    Senior Member Rank = Rokusai Handy Kenny's Avatar
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    Kenny000666,

    Re pond paint. I rendered the inside of my pond which is more roundy than square and then painted it. Have had no bother with flaking paint etc and this is into the third year. It is not down to the paint but more probably the preparation of the surface you want to paint onto which as it is render is of course naturally dusty and paint doesn't stick to dust. Before I painted having gone over any sticking out fibres with a blow lamp I pressure washed the inside of the pond to remove any dust. I stuck a bilge pump in the bottom drain to get rid of the water. My first coat of paint was applied with a sprayer to get into any nooks and crannies, my second was hand painted which goes on a lot thicker.

    I prefer the painted option to a flat rubber liner which has to be folded somewhere, I have a rubber liner in my 2000 litre sump and I wish I didn't. A box weld liner is a good solution.

    Kenny

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  20. #132
    Quote Originally Posted by bigcarpchaser View Post
    If you paint youíll need to render, save the bother and the cost and stick to a decent quality liner. Itíll go brown anyway no doubt. Stick some insulation in instead of render, jobís a goodun.
    Glad to see your cracking on Kenny.
    Really looking forward to seeing it come to fruition.


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    I like your idea on the insulation, but I have some imperfections in the poured concrete walls which I was planning to remediate with render. What I could do is fill the imperfections then put insulation. Iíll have a think and see if it would work. Insulation wasnít a priority for me considering the costs and losing more litres on the pond.

    I do like the ideas of a pond liner, but looking at the estimated cost of box weld liner it will cost £600 ish for a 2x2x2 sheet! Gravity fed filter below water line?. For this price I could get someone to install fibreglass. Thatís currently how much Iíve paid for the pond so far.

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  22. #133
    Lol youíd have to have some kind of decent surface to fibreglass to, probably best if I donít go there however you could lose a few blobs or ridges with even 25mm of celotex (other forms of insulation are available)
    What thickness render were you going to apply?



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  24. #134
    Standard render, scratch coat about 10mm, skim coat few mm. i would say itís not more than 15mm total. For addressing the the imperfections, i.e filling, the scratch coat could reach a thickness of 30mm ish on a worst case. I donít have a large area of imperfections like this though as the concrete pour did turn out relatively smooth in the good areas.




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  26. #135
    Actually thinking about it, I think i would take the insulation route. Maybe fill the gaps with filler or mortar to make a smoother surface.

    I donít think I will use 25mm insulation boards, as thatís going to take up quite a bit of possible litres of my small pond. Iíll aim for a 10mm XPS board maybe? Or even a 10-15mm insulation blanket? Then liner over the top.


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  28. #136
    Unless the gaps are massive itíll be fine, little undulations you wonít even see once you have water in there


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  30. #137
    Been a long time since I made a post.

    Got the house extension sorted at the beginning of the year and recently started back on the pond build.

    Figured, I got left over roofing grp from the build that i could use that for waterproofing the pond. Iíll share the build piccys shortly.

    Recently tested one of the waterfalls after fibreglassing the reservoir. Itís.... err interesting ... my missus says you can hear it down the road.



    Canít attach a video, but hereís the google drive link
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/cm5npEMHZHJa7TMu7

    Just brought a 2nd hand Eazy pod filter to get me started, whilst I work towards a drum.

    Hoping to get the pond filled some time this month.


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  31. #138
    Senior Member Rank = Grand Champion andikoi's Avatar
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    looks good,my liner came from here,6m x 3m and 4ftd its an epalyn one and was so easy to fit andi https://www.pondlinersonline.co.uk/

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  33. #139
    How close are your neighbours Kenny

    Looks good, nice work.

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  35. #140
    I need a wee after watching that
    Good work though Kenny, all coming together now then eh?


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