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  1. #401
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    under the tarpaulin at the moment ill get some up when I get out there next and its light

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  3. #402
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Gray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve1984 View Post
    ive got another 2 possibly 3 courses of blockwork to lay until I'm up to ground level, do I back fill with a wet sand and cement mix or a dry mix, ive also got to put the 3 posts back in that fell down due to digging too close to the fence so need to factor this in when I back fill
    Hi. Depends if itís on a seen front or sides, where youíll be maybe putting up a brick skin facia to cover the blocks, or if itís on a back side where nobody will see.

    If itís seen front or seen sides then Iíd back fill with a concrete mix to just below ground level to make the footing for your brick work wall.

    If itís the back side / unseen then Iíd just fill it up with a mix of the rubble thatís come from the block work and soil. You can drop your fence posts into some holes with a concrete mix beforehand and then fill over them once cured.

    Iím assuming youíve laid your blocks flat or used large hollows regards the rubble and soil backfill suggestion for the unseen side. If youíve gone for blocks upright then you might want to consider a backfill of concrete all round to create a supportive ring at ground level. Overkill in my opinion but I know a number of people prefer the surety of this method.

    I wouldnít just backfill with sand and cement if youíre wanting a secure backfill as this is just a mortar mix. You need concrete which is your sand, stone & cement mix - ballast & cement (3:1) in other words.

    Hope any / some of this helps!

    Gray.

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  5. #403
    Senior Member Rank = Gosai Handy Kenny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve1984 View Post
    that's where I'm going to have a problem then I think, I guess if I get a plumber out they may have some suggestions as to how I can get the pipe outside underground and then dig it into a trench all the way to end of the garden. thanks again.
    Your mains will come into the house possibly in a bigger pipe than the half inch copper/plastic that it is normally converted to. If you can then try to connect to the bigger pipe and use bigger MDPE which will pay dividends filling the pond and around the garden. There is little point taking a 20mm MDPE connection from the half inch pipe since this simply restricts the flow.

    Unles you live in an extremely cold part of the UK the frost won't penetrate more than 1/2 a metre (900mm in the Scottish Highlands). The local council will be able to advise on Frost Line for your area. I am in Central Scotland and ran all the services for my pond in a 2 foot deep trench to my greenhouse. Any excuse to get a wee digger in to play on is good enough for me.

    The frost line is calculated on a 40/50 year low and would affect copper/lead more than MDPE. Constant trickle of water through any pipe also helps. I have taps outside fed by MDPE which have frozen solid (-20 degrees overnight, -10 through the day seven years ago and that lasted for a week) and the MDPE never leaked. Anything that comes out of the ground is of course more susceptible however I have never had a problem and if it did split well I would just replace it. One wee tip here - fit a stop cock.

    Kenny

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  7. #404
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    thanks, nothing will be seen plan is to either clad or render the blockwork that will be visible then pave around the pond, so a mix of hardcore and soil it is then, should have kept some back rather than taking it all to the tip. Block have been laid flat so should be plenty stong enough just wanted to fill the void left between the wall and where I had dug out for peace of mind and obviously something to hold the concrete for the posts.

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  9. #405
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve1984 View Post
    thanks Laura, may get a plumber in to make the connections and then run the pipe after that, will it matter if a bit of the pipe is above ground as i'm a ssuming they will have to drill a hole through the hole to get the pipe outside and then down to the ground.
    The connections are very straight forward, if you buy the fitting everything comes with it put collar over pipe place pipe stiffener in then bring collet and threaded pipe up to the male thread screw on, itís very simple procedure


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  11. #406
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    in the next course or 2 I need to start making the aperture for the window, from previous posts I think 1200 should be ok on the end wall (internal 1500) but how much of a lip do I need to include in the wall for the window to sit against, i.e. if its 20mm each side I'd need to make the gap in the blockwork 1160.

  12. #407
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    finally managed to get a picture yesterday when I got home, 1 more full course to go then I'll building in the aperture for the window to go into think I have another 5 courses to go, should be finished building in March with any luck then can get onto the shed hoping to get my fence posts and fence put back in now that I'm above ground level and have something to support the concrete.20180206_134420.jpg

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  14. #408
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    I'm at the point now where I need a ladder to get in and out of the hole, I knew the floor was in even but hadn't realised how bad it was until the ladder went one way and me the other. I knew it wasn't smooth and would need sorting out when I'd finished laying the blocks. I've got 3 options that I'm thinking about to get a the floor even and smooth, first is to celotex the floor when I do the walls, second is to get someone to render the floor or third option is to lay a self levelling compound. which option would be best, obviously the benefit of the celotex is that it would add extra insulation but at the depth it is in the ground (around 4 foot) not sure how much of a benefit this would be. I've got about another 4 courses to go on the build before I need to dig the base for the new shed/ filter house will try and get some pictures tonight if its light enough and post up on Thursday. Its finally starting to take shape although one of my walls is annoying me as its not straight and hadn't realised until I was out of the ground and could see it properly, hoping that when I put the finish on the outside it wont be too noticeable looking to put a split face tile on the outside walls and run a blade out of the filter house.

  15. #409
    won t look to bad when coping stone are on the top. ( straight wise ) i did nt notice in your photo. of pond.
    until you mentioned it. looks good steve

    when my builder built my pond. i said won t it be to high 3 1\2 foot wall. above ground . he said 3 feet. your ground level is getting raised 6 inch for Indian stone deck. to make it 3 feet.
    i never even thought of that. bet you can t wait to get your fish in there mate. it will look good when completed.

  16. #410
    If it is that bad and put celotext on top you will have voids under the celotex in the low spots not sure if that would cause problems Iíd say screed Iíd probably the best bet


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  18. #411
    Senior Member Rank = Yonsai Steve1984's Avatar
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    didn't think about the voids, looks like it will be render or self levelling compound then. I was going to do more block work at the weekend however the weather is supposed to be really cold over night down to -3 both Saturday and Sunday night. If I cover with tarpaulin will it be ok or will I have a problem with the mortar.

    Also a couple of pics as promised.20180221_173927.jpg20180221_174323.jpg

 

 
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