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Thread: FX1 fluke treatment
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23-08-2017, 05:42 PM #1
FX1 fluke treatment
Just had this delivered from Duncan Griffiths website, but it came with no instructions, can anybody shed any light on it for me please ?
Cheers me dears
David
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23-08-2017, 05:49 PM #2
5g treats 7500gallons.
Dissolve 1g powder with 2ml acetone.
It's an absolute tw@t to weigh out and even worse to dissolve.
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23-08-2017, 06:09 PM #3
I own some myself but haven't needed to use it David. According to Duncan Griffith's you can't over dose using his FX1. He also says you can use DMSO ( Dimethyl sulfoxide ) to mix it up as well as acetone.
My packet does have some basic info.Attachment 21415
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23-08-2017, 06:10 PM #4
thanks, do I need to turn off u.v, as most treatments state to do this.
is it a single treatment or do I need to treat twice, do I need to do any water changes at any stage ?
David
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23-08-2017, 06:20 PM #5
It's meant to be a single treatment for both Gill and skin flukes. I don't know about the UV or water changes David?lf in doubt turn off the UV and keep water changes to a minimum if it were me.
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23-08-2017, 06:40 PM #6
Don't change any water for 10 days
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23-08-2017, 06:56 PM #7
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23-08-2017, 08:30 PM #8
So........yes its quite delicate to measure out, but not too bad, you will need some jewellers scales to be accurate, I just used a very small plastic container and scooped it in with a teaspoon.
Then I put the measured powder in a glass measuring jug and added the acetone, that did seem to thin it out somewhat, it became a white paste.
Well you can't add a paste into the pond, so I gradually added some pond water till I had about a litre of solution.
As Voodoo said, its difficult to fully dissolve despite the acetone, it took about 15-20 minutes of stirring, squishing and whisking to get rid of all small clumps and particles, I used a new half inch paint brush to kind of squish it on the glass bottom, I don't think you would ever fully dissolve it using a metal spoon. A glass bottom jug is a good idea to mix It in, because you can let it settle and then look up through the bottom to see if its all dissolved or not, and if its not, you can aim at the particles with the paint brush, by looking from underneath, and squish them.
I slowly added the solution under the shower return so it would quickly mix in with the pond water, despite all the mixing it still seemed to form a dust cloud in the water, so fearing my drum filter would rapidly clean it all out of the pond, I closed my filters and sieve off, shut off my water pumps, and turned the air up from the bottom drain, this kept all the solution in the actual pond, and stirred it all up lovely, I left it like this for about an hour, until i was happy it was all fully dissolved and then I turned everything back on.
Water is just about cloudy enough so that I cant see bottom drain.
UV is off, trickle in / trickle out is turned off, I think ive done everything right,.....does anybody know how long it remains in the water, or how long it takes to work?, when I can I put trickle in back on again?
Thanks
David
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24-08-2017, 10:03 AM #9
I would put it on again only if the pond level drops drum drum cleaning cycles. Ideally keep it off at least a week.
I would assume this stuff is flubendazole from the fact it dissolves (with difficulty) in acetone, and he sells Prazi seperately.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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24-08-2017, 08:00 PM #10
my drum uses water straight from the mains, so it wont drop the pond level ...how long does this treatment remain active in the water ?
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24-08-2017, 08:41 PM #11
I'm unsure on the duration. One thing that Duncan Griffith's says FX1 attacks Gill fluke eggs so you shouldn't have to wait for them to hatch for the treatment to kill the young.
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25-08-2017, 07:31 AM #12
I'm assuming it stays active for 10 days hence the don't change any water.
I think he may be a bit sick of me pestering him at the moment
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25-08-2017, 08:39 PM #13
came home tonight to see a couple of my fish looking quite rough.
quite bloodshot fins, bodies and loads of white small patches on the tail fins.
is this a reaction to the fx1, I assume its quite potent if only 5 grams treats 7500 gallons.
Other thing I am thinking, is this a bacterial problem?
I have scraped these 2 fish tonight and found absolutely squat diddly, I had previously scraped 5 or 6 fish last week and found 1 skin fluke on 2 separate fish.
I have found quite a few parasites now in the last few years, so I'm quite happy that I'm not missing something.
I had been altering my multibay around so I was aware I could have released some bacterial nasties, so I p.p the pond last week just in case.
I had one suddenly get some cotton wool appear on its side last week, so I scraped that and found nothing and then gave it a bath in m.g, and thats looking back to normal now, I also bathed the 2 tonight that I scraped in m.g.
I intend to use either acraflavine of chloramine t tomorrow ...any thoughts please?
Water parameters tested weekly and again tonight, ammonia and nitrite 0, p.h at 7.4
Thanks
David
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25-08-2017, 08:56 PM #14
Using an antibacterial to mop up damage from fluke flashing is a justifiable action. I would probably go for Cloramine T in this situation.
2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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26-08-2017, 07:11 AM #15
It is not totally unusual to see some form of reaction after a fluke treatment. It tends to happen if the treatment has gone in too quickly or not been fully dissolved.
Sometimes there is a reaction because of something else that is in the water and there is need to look at what other treatments/chemicals have been added in the last 30 days.
For me when a treatment has gone in I try and sit on my hands and tough it out. Fish can recover nearly as quickly as they go downhill. Yes I know just how hard it is to do this when the fish are pinking up / developing a load of mucus etc.
I certainly wouldn't be throwing anything else in chemical wise, at least for 7 to 10 days, if I were intent on trying to backtrack and abort it would be by changing a load of water..
It does become a personal judgement call only you can really make that decision on action and timing thereof.
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27-08-2017, 08:17 PM #16
errrm I guess I could have added the treatment slower, that's always possible, but there were no instructions with it.
I had treated with p.p a week or so earlier, purple for 4 hours then neutralised with s.t, there was nothing else in the water .
I did p.p because I was concerned after altering my multibay that I had maybe unwittingly, disturbed some nasty bacteria, as you can get in dead spots in multibays, because I did take out some jap matting, that made a right mess, so I p.p to disinfect the pond really.
All bays are now aerated k1 so water tracking or dead spots are impossible now, I don't want anything static in my filter that can gather any dirty at all.
Another reason I p.p was because ive never seen costia, ive found and treated for most other parasites but never costia, and I'm concerned that due to my inexperience and costias small size that I was just not seeing it.
clutching at straws but when you know something is wrong and you just cant find it, its almost a process of elimination, and after p.p costia was something else I could discount....rightly or wrongly, perhaps I shouldn't have done that.
Its only maybe 8-10 weeks since I had white spot and 3 treatments of formalin and malachite completely obliterated it, that should have wiped everything else out as well.
David
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