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Thread: Heat Pump .... Electrical
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02-07-2017, 12:12 PM #1
Heat Pump .... Electrical
Good afternoon All...
I'm buying a DuraTech Dura+ 7 heat pump this week... my question is can I plug it directly into a 13A plug sock or does it need to be hard wired into the main consumer unit?
I've read a few forums on the net where the Dura+7 has been connected directly to a 13A socket ... with an RCD
Has anyone tried it? If anyone has any info please let me know !! Many thanks
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02-07-2017, 03:20 PM #2
May I ask how much it was?
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02-07-2017, 03:41 PM #3
The price quoted by "Heatpumps4pools" is £1580 ... however I've found two other Heat pumps with decent performance and warranty ... that is the same class :
Garden PAC Invertec Type 7 £1575
Hydro-Pro Inverter 7 £1215
All of them take 1.2KW input of power
Return is :
Garden PAC - 6.5 KW
Hydro-Pro inverter - 5.1 KW
Dura+ 7 - 6.4 KW
All of them are very decent and not sure which one to go for ... I'd probably go for the Hydro pro cos of price ... my pond is no more than 2000 gallons and well insulated so 5.1kw will keep it heated with minimum effort ..
Just need to work out if I need to get it hard wired or straight into the 13A socket ...
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02-07-2017, 04:01 PM #4
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02-07-2017, 04:12 PM #5
That's what I thought ... but I've been doing home work about these heat pumps and after learning the hard way by installing a 2KW in line electric heater I got an £800 bill from November - march ... and looking at the lower priced heat pumps they still don't offer a huge amount of return for what goes in ... with the pumps listed above will pay itself off within 2 years ... I've compared about 15 different heat pumps based on power input , Efficiency , Max Flow , temperature , size , price , build and Warranty ... all three of the listed above is the best within my budget ... I think it's best I fork out the extra cash and buy something that will see me the next 5 years or so ... and lower my heating bills ...
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02-07-2017, 04:15 PM #6
KOI_SPLY
Fully appreciate what you are saying but there are very few manufacturers!
What you really need to see is a graph of COP vs temperature for each pump
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02-07-2017, 07:36 PM #7
OK, I can give you the correct answer and the honest answer to your question. Yes, it will work from a standard ring main socket. However you are not really meant to do this, because when the compressor turns on in cold weather it will suddenly draw a large spike of current that can trip RCDs in your house, and some electricians claim will damage your house wiring because it is outside the spec of what it is supposed to cope with.
The reason some people say you need a separate spur from your consumer unit is so that you can fit a type D circuit breaker that can cope with the millisecond current spike when it first comes on each time.2016 new 6000 gallon pond
https://www.koiforum.uk/pond-construc...ghlight=feline
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02-07-2017, 08:45 PM #8
I don't know the detail but I think a different type of breaker might help. I have a log splitter that would trip my breaker every time I started it. My mate who's a sparky changed the breaker for one rated to the same amps but a different type and it was fine and has never tripped since.
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02-07-2017, 09:08 PM #9
Only recently have they said it should be wired direct, when I fitted mine five years ago now it was deemed ok to wire it via a 13amp plug which I did and has worked faultlessly.
My my only problem which is unrelated is should we suffer loss of electric the timer cannot remember the settings and I have to reprogram it, when time allows I'll investigate to see which battery is used as back up to the memory and see about replacing it.
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02-07-2017, 09:11 PM #10
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02-07-2017, 10:41 PM #11
According to the specs the 7+ draws a running current of 4.7A but the max current is 6.4A
Therefore there must be an inrush current of 6.4A when the unit starts up.
You should be ok by plugging it in to your socket circuit as this will be protected by a 20a or 32a presumably.
If it does keep blowing the fuse on startup then you may have to uprate the circuit breaker to a type C.
Your normal breakers should be a type B.
If your heater does pop the breaker then it may be worth wiring it on its own circuit 16A type c if you have space in your cu
Hope this helps.
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03-07-2017, 12:35 PM #12
Hi I have the Hydro Pro+ 10 & fitted a 16amp supply from my consumer unit with a type C breaker. Hasn't missed a beat & I recommend them highly. Easy to install & program with a touch screen. They even do a model where you can change your settings from your phone if you feel the need?.
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03-07-2017, 01:20 PM #13
I don't think they make the hydro pro + anymore ... it's apparently been replaced by the inverter model ... so I've been told ... cos I was actually looking for the +7 type and after calling up a number of suppliers they all told me it's been discontinued ... looks like an amazing pump I guess hydro-pro it is then ... thanks for your advice
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03-07-2017, 03:36 PM #14
Sounds about right. All the latest updates on fridges washers heaters etc are all on inverters these days. More energy efficient apparently.
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03-07-2017, 06:50 PM #15
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03-07-2017, 07:06 PM #1619,000 litres
Nexus 320 with Dracodrum and submersible UV
Blue Eco 320
Eazy Pod on skimmer
Dura+ 10kW Heat Pump
15 koi
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03-07-2017, 07:10 PM #17
Heat Pump .... Electrical
I put the new one as close as I could to the old one and swapped the wires one by one ... it tricked me by having a gap in the middle!
Luckily could see where the gap should be in the wiring diagram in the manual.
I came close to launching the heat pump and letting the fish go back to natural temperatures a few times!
I gave up trying to get the board back in the housing. Just put the cover back on, I'll soon forget I did that and be quite happy.
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03-07-2017, 09:42 PM #18
Do you mind if I jump in here.... You mentioned a bill of £800 Nov-March for a standard election heater. If you make the change to an inverted pump heat exchanger as you are suggesting, what sort of price do you think that bill would cut down to? I appreciate I'm asking for a very approximate estimate but I am interested to know what sort of savings you can make and this is the first post that quoted an initial bill for a standard heater! What is interesting is that I've just come off eBay looking at standard heaters to read this post and £800 - that's a definite no chance! I'm curious to know what an expected equivalent bill would be for a pump exchange,..
Cheers! Chris
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04-07-2017, 01:01 AM #19
craynerd I'm going to jump in on that one
there are quite a few variables that affect the efficiency of a heat pump: mainly the ambient and water temperature - you need to read the graphs carefully!
Some boast of a COP of "up to 6.3" but you have to watch the pea carefully
So as a practical example
Assume ambient is 10C and water 15C the COP is about 4.2
Ambient 5C and water 18C COP is about 3.3
Ambient 0C water 18C COP is about 2.6
You get the idea
Anyway to answer your question leccy bills will be roughly a quarter/third of a conventional heater
PS
"The efficiency of refrigeration systems and heat pumps is denoted by its Coefficient Of Performance (COP). The COP is determined by the ratio between energy usage of the compressor and the amount of useful cooling at the evaporator (for a refrigeration instalation) or useful heat extracted from the condensor (for a heat pump). A high COP value represents a high efficiency. Most of the electric energy needed to drive the compressor is released to the refrigerant as heat. Therefore more heat is available at the condensor than is extracted at the evaporator of the heat pump.
For a heat pump a COP value of 4 means that the addition of 1 kW of electric energy is needed to have a release of 4 kW of heat at the condensor. At the evaporator side 3,0-3,5 kW of heat is extracted."
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04-07-2017, 01:55 AM #20
The savings are quite significant ... depending on the type of Heat pump you purchase ... if it offers a higher COP , obviously you'll get more heat for your money ...
I had a Cloverleaf 2KW in line electric heater ... my pond was well insulated ... I heated the pond to 18 degrees from November -march ... it cost me 240£ and did the job fairly well ... however the heater would keep itself on about 12-15 hours a day to keep the water warm ... that sucking 2KW upto 15hours a day ...
Heat pumps will achieve the same temp in about 20% of the time in the right conditions
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The Daily pond temp thread
Still at around 17C, know what you mean about getting the covers off though :D it will be really...