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Thread: framework prep for polycarb
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18-09-2019, 10:32 PM #1
framework prep for polycarb
Good evening fellow fish keepers, I Spent a while this morning lovingly varnishing the timber wow what a laborious job that is, anyhow one coat done and another to be done tomorrow morning, tin says ready to recoat in 17 to 24 hours it was dry to the touch after 6 but hey ho will follow directions and do second coat tomorrow, should be able to put together and mount the poly on the frames tomorrow pm as weather is looking warm again, my order from Coppens arrived today 3mm x 5k and 6mm x 5k OSW and 3k of Wheatgerm in case they want a small feed during the winter...…..oh and before anyone points it out the wood is cut exactly the same lengths, its just that some lengths are further back than others in the blue tray hence why they look different lengths, just thought would mention as I know how finicky some of you are if they remain that way once I have attached the poly is another matter entirely !! cheers Steve.
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18-09-2019, 10:34 PM #2
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18-09-2019, 10:43 PM #3
when do you put on your winter covers ? I am thinking why not put them on this weekend as from Sunday the weather is turning, why not try and hold onto the warmth in the water straightaway(for those of us unheated) ? I have a window so fish will still get good light, poly is clear, i can still feed them and leave a gap between covers or should I wait for the water to get to a certain temp ?? what makes you spring into action and get the covers out?? , thanks Steve.
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18-09-2019, 10:48 PM #4
I'm thinking of starting in next few days to be honest it's just getting that crisp chill in the air, even if it's not total coverage it will help I'm not sure how your filter pipe work is but if it's exposed consider covering that too, I close my nexus in aswell as anything that has direct contact with the air will leech heat, how much did you pay for your osw? Just as matter of interest?
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18-09-2019, 10:57 PM #5
Timbers look good mate.
I want to enjoy my pond as long as possible. Last year I waited for first cold snap that took pond below 10C, then waited for it to go back over 10C, then covered.
This was around late October /early November time.
I didn't feel that the covers did a lot until temps really dropped and once air temps went below 4C the pond consistently stayed at 4C and never went lower.
Based on 1 winter's experience I found the pond fluctuated between 4-8C throughout. I extended pond end of Feb and transferred koi into the garage so can't comment on what benefit cover would have been then, but we had a mini heatwave in Feb up to 25C yet the uncovered pond temp didn't break 10C until early April.
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18-09-2019, 11:04 PM #6
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18-09-2019, 11:09 PM #7
cheers RS - thanks, I think I will put on Saturday evening as from Sunday its going to go downhill a bit, I am thinking of putting a small grub screw on each frame length so its impossible to accidently butt the covers together and stopping the gases from escaping, seeing that video the other day has made me paranoid...….
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18-09-2019, 11:13 PM #8
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18-09-2019, 11:23 PM #9
Pipe lagging should be fine the foam stuff is pretty user friendly or lidl and aldi have the aluminium foil insulation on a roll quite cheap, that's my addition for this year or even bubble wrap around the pipe secured with gaffa tape or similar or polycarbonate box / shield
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19-09-2019, 12:16 AM #10
I've gone the budget route this year after fred gave me the idea when he linked to cheap tarpaulins, slightly more budget than last year mind.
Bought 2x clear nylon reinforced tarpaulins (£32) and 100 metres x 1000mm of bubblewrap (plus 50 metres I already have) £21.95
Will lay one of the tarpaulins flat on the ground, line it with strips of strong double sided tape, then layer it with the bubblewrap with double sided tape between each layer.
All that bubblewrap should work out about 3 inches thick.
Then double sided tape on the final layer of bubblewrap and stick the 2nd tarpaulin on top to create a bubblewrap sandwich.
After that, I'll run a fat bead of sealent around the circumference and bond the 2 tarps together at the edges.
2 planks of wood to make an apex across the width of the pond, lay the tarps on top, then bungee strap all the way around the circumference through the eyelets.
Have a few sheets of celotex lying around to line the filter pit. Didn't insulate it last year but as I've now got a drum with an outside water supply I need to do it.
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19-09-2019, 12:17 AM #11
Nice one smartin,
i'm no where near doing my covers...
i've just started gutting my kitchen as i have a new one to fit before i can start on the covers.
...solid oak worktops are a pita, too much carpentry.
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19-09-2019, 12:23 AM #12
Depending on size and location of pipes.....
You can insulate using Armaflex nitrile pipe insulation (this is much more weather and UV proof than the standard grey foam stuff).
And/or you can get a couple of sheets of 50mm celotex, cut it to size to make box sections and box the pipes in with that. Just stick the pieces together with CT1. Then paint it or whatever to make it look better.
I made a box out of celotex to go over my drum, main purpose was to block out the noise of the cleaning cycle, which it does very well, but it also insulates the drum.
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19-09-2019, 07:29 AM #13
Really up to you Steve when you cover up.
As for leaving a gap I think you will be fine as long as the cover isn't floating on the surface.
You could raise the frame off the coping stones a fraction say 1/2 ins to let gases escape,doesn't need much,but I would butt the top up tight.
Small offcuts of timber could raise it.John
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19-09-2019, 09:27 AM #14
With John on this.
As much as that video was horrible to watch, the difference is they had no air gap whatsoever as the covers were laying on the water surface.
I can't imagine that any cover that doesn't touch the water surface will be airtight enough to restrict gas exchange.
Say you have a 3" gap between water surface and tightly fitted cover, and an air pump in pond running at 40lpm, that 3" gap will be constantly replenished with 40 litres of fresh air every minute. If its air tight enough that it stalls your air pump then you might have an issue, but I can't imagine that would ever happen.
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19-09-2019, 11:45 AM #15
I agree with RS2000 as long as the water surface is free and clear. Gasious exchange will take place,
air holds roughly 30 times more oxygen than water so you only need to pump a relatively small amount in to replenish what is used by the pond.
I doubt most pond covers are that air tight but you could always leave a small gap on one end.
Too big I think you'd lose the insulating effect.
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19-09-2019, 01:25 PM #16
Hi Steve can I ask where did you get you polycab sheeting from as i'm after some for the filter house. cheers mark
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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19-09-2019, 08:12 PM #17
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19-09-2019, 08:16 PM #18
Hi Mark, I used Roofing Supplies | Roofing Materials | Roofing Superstore ® for my 35mm clear poly carb and I also used Pipe Lagging | Pipe Insulation | The UK?s Top Lagging Supplier for my Armaflex pipe insulation black nitrile foam O class in 2m lengths, not cheap when you add up what you need especially the bigger dimensions pipe bore, cheers Steve.
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freddyboy Thanked / Liked this Post
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19-09-2019, 08:16 PM #19
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19-09-2019, 08:21 PM #20
Running heater at low temp?
Covering the pond with polycarb should be enough to stop water temps dipping below 6C for the most...